i dont want a hypothesis, are there dyno's to prove the longer stroke alone from the ls/b20 crank is more desirable over the ITR. assuming the rods are shorter on the ls/b20 setup which is a natural given affect horsepower in any way shape or form. In other words in a simple sense what i am asking is....does an ls vtec produce more actual horsepower than a standard c1 setup, all I have heard is torque is increased. should i keep my ITR crank or is the ls/b20 (assuming they are the same crank) be the best route?

 

I don't really know.. but welcome to HT..

 

displacement = torque.

The only thing i would trade my ls/vtec for (ok 2 things)

1. full REAL type R motor with some nice cams.

2. K20A.

 

it all depends on what u want really. I would prefer a mild b20 vtec then just a gsr block but thats just me. If u compare a stock b20 vtec 2 a b18c5 dyno, teh c5 is going 2 make more peak whp, its got the cams, good cr, and a decent tq put out. A stock b20 vtec will yied a 8.9 cr wit a gsr head, unless u have a b20z then like 10.0cr, the b20 will make a hell of alot more low 2 mid range power than a c5. But power would die off sooner which would make ur peak whp come sooner cause of ur limted redline. U figure if both were put into a full interior teg with a c5 tranny who would win? I think its up 2 the driver cause it would b a nice race, they should pull out about even if u look a quater mile racing.

 

the stroke on the ls/vtec setup does yeild better torque numbers, but shouldn't hinder any power up top. Just build it right so you can rev to 8-9k and slap a nice head on it w/some stage II cams and you'll be happy. The thing about ls/vtec isn't the head, or a lack of top end potential, its just the strength of the stock components. The pistons yeild too low a cr, and coupled with stock rods, won't be able to handle high revs.

In order to make good power...if you are on a budget I'd get your ls rods shotpeened and run some jdm itr pistons. I'd recommend a block girdle as well. Ideally you would want forged rods, pistons, arp head studs, rod bolts, andmain studs, also a gsr or itr girdle and mains. This would give you a bulletproof bottom end and you wouldn't have to worry about the oil squirters not being there b/c you'll have forged pistons.

 

instead of itr pistons u should use p30's, no machine work needed. Straight bolt on if u look at it like that, and it yields a higher cr .

 

ITR's skirts are coated with a moly lub to reduce friction though, and their dome height makes them friendlier for street use, especially if its gonna be a little while before you go get tuned.

 

What is the weight of the LS Crank? ITR Crank?

 

good thread.... very informative

 

this is an amazing thread its answering all my questions

more info!!!

 

as far as wieght goes, the ls crank is the lighter than the c1 and c5 crank, but not *** balanced, thats the main reason u cant spin it 2 high rpm as smoothly. All u got 2 do 2 fix that is take it 2 a machine shop and have them balance ur whole rotaing assembly(crank,pistons,rods). And then u should b good till 9000 grand wit some arp rod bolts

 

FROM MIAMI TO CALI........FROM VEGAS TO JERSEY.....GOT EM IN HOUSTON VIRGINIA...NEW ORLEANZ YA HEARD ME

I actually called TODA today and the kid told me that actually resleeving the block (which is almost a must in my opinion from what i have heard) is hardly ever performed in japan. I have also had a friend crack his b20b on stock sleeves with the b20 crank. (im not blaming the crank im just stating resleeving is obviously the best option....we found out the hard way) however this is my general assumtion take from it what you can. the b20 block needs http://www.theoldone.com/components/breather/ (that).

the c5 block does not and other than the 84mm on the b20 what is more desirable about the b20....ABSOLUTELY NOTHING. so if the itr crank is .."better"...because it is built to handle higher rpm's is balanced and is just more durable....this according to kid from toda.....so heres the grand assumption and is what I have done. resleeved my c5 block to 85 mm beating that of the 84 mm b20 now heres the magical essence of 85mm. if yu remove the stock honda sleeves and replace them with darton sleeves, kmart sleeves whatever sleeve yu have.....lol....i dont think kmart makes sleeves but anyhow with the sleeves removed i dont know what to call this but ill refer to it as the sleeve holder....or in essence the block without the sleeve. ok 85mm is the biggest yu can go without actually cutting out material inside the block .....in other words if yu wanted to go 86mm (this has been done many times....i hear) yu would have to remove material from the block which would greatly weaken the sleeves etc......my setup is almost done, I will let yu know what my set up consists of after i get it dyno'd.

so from what i gather and i still dont know the answer for certain....the b20 ls crank with the occompanying rods.....wouldnt be a good suggestion for a bone stock c1 motor.......if it wouldnt add anything then **** b20's all together and resleeve yur c5 motor.....again ...thats if the b20 ls crankz STROKE doesnt aid in horsepower....(we all know the crank isnt as durable, balanced whatever) but the stroke aiding in horsepower is what i need to know.........can we get someone in here that knows something concerning this. ........peacze out

 

remember torque gets you going and horsepower keeps you going
so out of a corner off the line if you had two identically modded motors the one with the b20 crank will do better in the above stated situations and max hp would be the same wouldnt it?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by joboost13 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">as far as wieght goes, the ls crank is the lighter than the c1 and c5 crank, but not *** balanced, thats the main reason u cant spin it 2 high rpm as smoothly. All u got 2 do 2 fix that is take it 2 a machine shop and have them balance ur whole rotaing assembly(crank,pistons,rods). And then u should b good till 9000 grand wit some arp rod bolts </TD></TR></TABLE>

Also cant the machine shop do something to the rods to make them stronger?

 

i have a gsr with a b16 head and some internal work and i would not trade it for a lsvtec ever. owned both by they way so its not a biased call.