This is a b16a1 swap in my 91 civic hatch...pretty much completely stock except for some JDM A/X headers and AEM intake.

Anyway, for the past few weeks my car is having issues starting. Probably takes a good 10 seconds of cranking, a few sputters, before it finally catches and goes. Then when I let it warm up the idle will be at 2k for about 30 seconds as it gradually goes down to stock idle around 9K however occassionaly (and becoming more frequent) the idle will spike down to 1k and back up..sort of bogging I suppose.

In general my b16 has lost the pep that it once had a month back. Not too bad but i can tell it's sluggish on acceleration especially when i just floor it, response is delayed about 3 seconds and even then it's more gradual acceleration opposed to the jump that it once was.

I have a code for VTEC, which i never had before until I unplugged it for a long road trip, because of my short gears I was sick of hitting vtec at only 80mph. However, since I plugged it back in and reset the ECU i'm still getting a code for it?

any help to any of my problems would be much appreciated. Aside from performance my car still gets excellent MPG.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dingusjt &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Anyway, for the past few weeks my car is having issues starting. Probably takes a good 10 seconds of cranking, a few sputters, before it finally catches and goes</TD></TR></TABLE>

It seems like this is a common problems with older Honda's, maybe not the same exact thing but it seems like older Honda's have starting issues. I have 3 Honda's and all 3 run fine but have some issues starting up. 1 of the crx's takes about 10 to finally kick over, the only thing that really comes to mind is either the coolant temp sensor needs a good cleaning or there is a problem with the ignitor. Not a fuel problem because I have a pressure gauge. This problem will only occur when the car has been sitting for a long time.

The other crx also has a starting problem when it gets cold out, it will start up and die right away, I am almost positive this is a fuel problem because if you prime the car and shut it off and then try to start it, it starts up fine.

And the hatch back also has a starting problem, it will crank very slow. I just bought the car so I have not had time to narrow it down, I know its not the battery though.

Your bouncing idle sounds like the fast idle air control valve getting stuck open. I would try taking it off and cleaning it, also try taking the eacv off and cleaning that.

 

take your negative terminal off for a couple seconds then put it back on that should get rid of the vtec code because when you unhooked the vtec wiring that put your ecu in limp mode i had the same thing keep coming up on my ecu let me know how you make out

 

Where did you unplug your vtec at?

 

Just read it over, unplugging the vtec solenoid is not a smart thing to do. Your car thinks there is something wrong and retards your timing and throws more fuel at the engine, more fuel will cause more wear and tear over time on the cylinder walls.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 90blackcrx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Just read it over, unplugging the vtec solenoid is not a smart thing to do. Your car thinks there is something wrong and retards your timing and throws more fuel at the engine, more fuel will cause more wear and tear over time on the cylinder walls.</TD></TR></TABLE>

see i was thinking that but wasn't really sure..I unplugged my vtec at the plug right next to the solenoid. As far as wear and tear i plugged it back in..this was just for a 300 miles trip and I didn't even really hit the crossover rpm.

and I already reset my ecu via taking off the negative on my battery and removing hazard fuse..but that damn code is still there.

 

anymore input? what to check to fix my problem?

now I did get an emissions test where I failed carbons horribly which I gathered meant I was having issues with uncombusted fuel...thus possibly an ignition problem.

 

I noticed you said you have a header,
Are you running one or two O2 sensors?

 

When i had that problem it was my thermo ground. My vtec threw a code one time, and wouldn't go off, so i beat the **** out of it with a little screwdriver and it's been fine ever since. Im only running one O2 and it runs great. Never has had anymore problems

 

i need to redo my grounds anyway..it wont hurt

and yeah I have a beautiful oldschool aftermarket JDM header made for the b16a1 with the two 02 sensor setup..so i'm running two.

 

i had the same problem when i got my b16 swap done i think there was a wire loose in or next to the ecu. check all the wiring. also the bogging issue. i think there is a valve u can adjust for that. good luck
-Kyle

 

i wouldn't really call it bogging although it's happening more frequently.

it only happens when i'm letting my car warm up..when it's warm and i'm driving around there is no problem whatsoever in regards to bogging.

my car will sputter at idle when it's warming up and then when i give it a little gas it will bog but drop back up, this will only happen maybe two or three times when i'm sitting there letting it idle for about a minute every morning.

 

anymore suggestions?

 

i don't think it could do with the starter because that thing is cranking like a champ, alternator? not likely i wouldn't think.

maybe a new cap and rotor would benefit? what's $20 i suppose.

 

wich vtec code are you getting, oil pressure or vtec solenoid? CHeck your oil to make sure that your not low.

id pull the ecu out over night and plug it in and see if the code goes away, if it does not then you need to check your wiring, there is a ground for the vteco pressure switch, make sure that is good.

 

( it gradually goes down to stock idle around 9K ) anybody else catch that? Thats a sick idle hmmmm..... Sorry man had to point that out....

 

First thing i always tell people is to do all the basic maintenance like cap,, rotor, plugs, maybe plug wires, fuel filter, and PCV. Then see what happens. Check ignition and cam timing.

 

Surging idle...it's covered in the search a million times. Often it's a EACV related problem.
Alot of cranking time usuallu has to do with the ignition or dizzy going out. Also check the battery. That's often also a case of bad starting habits. Especially when it's cold outside.