The threads on this fitting are messed up I believe and won't go into the proportioning valve smoothly. I already messed up one valve trying to fit it. Looks like I need to replace the whole line? This one leads up directly to the firewall into a rubber plug.

It the bottom most left fitting.

 

depending on which brake line it is, its not going to be simple to just replace the whole brake line without having the engine bay completely open, and engineless.

just get a thread chaser of the right size to fix the thread. figure the thread dimensions out somehow, call a fastener supplier and theyll have the die. thats going to be the best bet.

otherwise, just go to a junkyard and get a replacement. to reuse and reflare the hose is going to take some special tools.

 

I have the same problem but for the fitting that goes into my master cylinder. I didn't use flare wrenches so it's all stripped and mashed. I've asked about it at work and I think the easiest way would be to cut, put on new fitting, and redo the double flare.

I've also been thinking about replacing the whole line...but that might be more of a pain

 

in the case of messing up the nut of the nipple, then yeah, youre definately screwed and your only options are reflare or replace. i actually did the same thing on my MC, for me tho, i got enough grip with a vice grip to fasten it in one last time and no leaks. i definately learned my lesson on using a flare nut wrench. didnt even know about em until i messed it up.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tyson &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">in the case of messing up the nut of the nipple, then yeah, youre definately screwed and your only options are reflare or replace. i actually did the same thing on my MC, for me tho, i got enough grip with a vice grip to fasten it in one last time and no leaks. i definately learned my lesson on using a flare nut wrench. didnt even know about em until i messed it up.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Haha, same thing here. I used a vice grip to tighten it back in, and that's what really messed it up. I'd like to replace it just incase I ever need to remove it to replace the mc or booster. We'll compare which one is more messed up at CRXPO

edit: forgot you moved. So not sure if you're coming or not?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sporkcrx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">... I think the easiest way would be to cut, put on new fitting, and redo the double flare....</TD></TR></TABLE>

had to do this when doing a DA rear brake swap on my hatch. very easy to do takes about 15min. ALWAYS USE A BOX WRENCH. those fittings always stick and are very easy to strip.

 

I'll try rethreading it and see how it goes this weekend. Thanks.

 

I think you meant to say a "flare wrench"..
A box-end wrench is fully enclosed and while you could use it,
You would have to leave it on the line
when you finish tightening the fitting...

When dealing with lines like this it is best to use your fingers
for the intitual tightening..if it will not spin freely for five or six turns,
most likely you are cross-threading it..

 

I saw an article on hybrid that said the guy flared his lines. How do I do that and what tool do I get?

The nut itself is perfectly fine but the threads on it are not so nice no more.

Edit: http://www.carcraft.com/howto/50919/
I found that but not too informative on where to get tools and how much.

 

Mine were so seazed i had to use a torch and vicegrips to remove when i changed my prop valve.

Cut it off, clean the end of the brakeline, slide on new fitting, reflare.

-Eric

 

What kind of reflaring tool did you get and was it easy to use?

 

I went out today to see what kind of tap and die sets would work with it and I tried 2 different large kits and none of them have such a fine thread for it.

What else can I do to fix this? The car has been sitting for weeeeeks.