anybody know of companies that sell battery relocation kits for 88-91 civic/crx

 

kit?

Piece of wire, bunch of solder, black tape, and a batter terminal end and box of your choice.

From starter to battery.. Splice in with wire going to under hood fuse box. Run to battery. Anything grounded goes to chassis.

-Eric

 

sumit has a very nice batter relocation kit. They all alre pretty much universal

 

They're expensive...

Just get a sealed battery like a Hawker Odyssey, and a speaker installation kit.

Save you a TON. Plus you won't have fumes from a dangerous battery.

 

all i did was took a set of 4 gauge jumper cables and bought a battery box from wal-mart. and hook'd it up like was mention'd above^^^. it cost me 25$ to do!! and was easy.

 

oh and i bought a optima red top battery. but i didn't buy that for the relocation. i had that already!!

 

you guys have to do a 'starting voltage drop test' on those cables running to the back.

Increased resistance makes your alternator work harder.

edit: good cables, and solid connections make all the difference, but you still should check to be sure. Check the positive and the ground side for total voltage drop. More than .2 volts is unacceptable.

 

how do you do that test?

thanks

 

pull ecu fuse so car will not start.

connect one lead of your voltmeter to the battery positive terminal, other lead to the high amperage starter input(not the starter solenoid). Have someone crank the engine for a couple seconds and read the voltage drop. (yes, you're using your voltmeter ONLY on the positive side of the circuit at this point.). If there is a voltage drop, write it down.

then put one lead of the voltmeter on the negative terminal of your battery and the other lead on the starter mounting bolt(engine block). Have someone crank the engine again for a few seconds and record the results.

Add the two voltage differences together, if they equal above .2 volts you need larger cables, or you need better connections. If your car fails the test, you can do a starter voltage drop test on smaller portions of the total circuit. Like if you suspect your battery clamps to be making bad connection, put one test lead of your voltmeter on the battery post and one on the actual clamp, then have someone crank the motor. If you get any voltage drop there, you definitely got a problem(clean and tighten the connection). The secret to this test is: the resistance in the circuit only really shows up under heavy load, like 150 amps going to the starter. Some people seem to think that the continuity(ohms) test works for this. As if putting 4 volts and 1 amp through a fucken 4 gauge wire is going to tax its ability to flow electrons...

I had a battery light in my integra for a while that was intermittent and a real brainteaser. I did a voltage drop test, and total voltage drop was over 2 volts. Not just .2, but OVER 2 whole volts across the circuit. When my alternator would start pumping out the amps(with radio, lights, foglights, amp all on), my voltage regulator was saying **** this, and throwing the battery light.

 

what guage wire were you using when you got over 2 volts in voltage drop?
and what guage wired did you find acceptable results

 

was using 2 gauge cables. Could be the only reason they don't work is because they're low quality. They're the cables from a cheap set of jumper cables from walmart.

I haven't replaced them yet.

I'm thinking good quality 0 gauge.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HatchBox &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">sumit has a very nice batter relocation kit. They all alre pretty much universal </TD></TR></TABLE>

what about kragen? don't they carry battery boxes too?

 

well i could say that summit battery relocater is a good buy it comes with everything you need and it only costs about 20 bucks!!! well its easier for me since i live about a half hour away from summit racing here in the west but you should look into it!!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b16crx0062004 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">anybody know of companies that sell battery relocation kits for 88-91 civic/crx</TD></TR></TABLE>

http://summitracing.com/
Search and you will find a bunch of them on their site.
I got mine from there and so have a bunch of other people.

 

I dont think its the quality of the wire that causes low voltage its the quality of the connections and thickness of the wire. Copper wire is copper wire imo, but if you just got connections twisted together and taped no matter what brand wire you got you have a **** electrical system. Not just on relocateing batteries but with any custom wiring

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by drussell4801 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">was using 2 gauge cables. Could be the only reason they don't work is because they're low quality. They're the cables from a cheap set of jumper cables from walmart.

I haven't replaced them yet.

I'm thinking good quality 0 gauge. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Why dont you just go with some 350.. that will hold up... geeze.

2ga... thats too big. Waste. Get some stranded 4ga.. works fine. Thats what im running 50k on the alterator with no problems..

I also run a 800W amp.

-Eric

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EFz6er &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I dont think its the quality of the wire that causes low voltage its the quality of the connections and thickness of the wire. Copper wire is copper wire imo, but if you just got connections twisted together and taped no matter what brand wire you got you have a **** electrical system. Not just on relocateing batteries but with any custom wiring</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah thats why you weave your connections. You obviously have to solder them. Anyone who is stupid enough just to tape the wires together going to the battery shouldnt he allowed to drive.

You need solid connections, solder is the key. Without it will arc, and short out, fires etc.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HamiltonRex &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
You obviously have to solder them. Anyone who is stupid enough just to tape the wires together going to the battery shouldnt he allowed to drive.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

LOL you just gave me a new sig!!!!