Lost power from not hooking up IABs (dyno sheets inside)

<FONT COLOR="RED">red line represents IABs hooked up</FONT>
<FONT COLOR="BLUE">blue line represents IABs not hooked up</FONT>
ran my 94 B18C1 motor on the dyno with two different ECUs. a stock P72 and a rechipped P28. the motor is stock except for intake and exhaust. notice how much low to mid range power i lost just from getting rid of the secondaries.
some of you might have seen this thread in the EG civic forum. just thought i'd share for those of you who don't venture into the EG+ civic/del sol forum.
Where was the VTEC point set on the chipped P28? I have a feeling that a less-than-ideal VTEC point might also have contributed to the large losses with the P28.
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 12,497
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From: Newark/Bay Area, CA., USA
looks like vtec was set around 5500 on the chipped p28. This is the reason why i tell a lot of my customers with stock gsr's that its not worth getting a chipped p28! LOL
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by iH8RICERZ »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">looks like vtec was set around 5500 on the chipped p28. This is the reason why i tell a lot of my customers with stock gsr's that its not worth getting a chipped p28! LOL</TD></TR></TABLE>
you get people arguing with you about that? I mean I agree looking at that dyno, he clearly lost power... but I'm thinking guys using their "Butt Dyno" and with a loss on power before the 5500RPM that they would swear the car "feels faster" after being modified.
you get people arguing with you about that? I mean I agree looking at that dyno, he clearly lost power... but I'm thinking guys using their "Butt Dyno" and with a loss on power before the 5500RPM that they would swear the car "feels faster" after being modified.
That's interestin, but i think people use the p28 for cams and they need to tune. They dont use it for bolt on's. What i'm more interested in knowin is does it realli make a differance taking off the valve that controls when the gsr butterfly intake mani to open up to secondary, will make more power when you leave it off then on the IM.
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Looks like that p28 would make daily driving a little more work. Good post, for all those people that think a chipped p28 is going to help on a stock GS-R IM.
I had my IAB solnoid break and I can tell you that I've run the car setup in several "modes":
1) Secondaries open all the time - Kinda pokey until 5500 RPM, noticable low end loss
2) Secondaries closed all the time - Kinda lame up top, noticable top end loss
3) Normal OEM way - By far the BEST all round configuration, power delievery smooth and powerful. Honda knows what they are doing guys....
1) Secondaries open all the time - Kinda pokey until 5500 RPM, noticable low end loss
2) Secondaries closed all the time - Kinda lame up top, noticable top end loss
3) Normal OEM way - By far the BEST all round configuration, power delievery smooth and powerful. Honda knows what they are doing guys....
Just get a new intake manifold. I switched to a Venom intake mani, and it deff. took away some midrange, but made it pull kinda hard up top (I say kinda because I was used to a boosted GSR, and went to an NA setup which sucked)
Was the solenoid connected? The vacuum keeps the butterflies closed so if you had disconnected the vacuum line, regardless of whether the ECU was setup for IAB, the butterflies would have been open, giving you the poor mid range response.
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