I am getting ready to switch from my b16 to my fully built b18c. I got the b16 out already and am looking at my wiring harnesses.. what do I need to do for the wiring side of the swap?? how much of my stock harness do I use and what all do I need to wire.. any help please let me know. not many resources in my area.

 

I believe you need to use the harness off the B18c, and change the distributer out with the one off the B16a also. I have a B18c in my EF and they used the B18c harness and a distributor off the B16a, along with the PR3 ecu.

What intake manifold are you using?, you might want to use the Skunk2 manifold...no secondary butterfly...

 

how did they use the gsr harness.. did they re-pin the connectors that connect to the underdash harness with the normal Si plugs? please explain.. what fuel rail & injectors are you using?

 

no no no.. keep your harness from your original b16 swap..
if the alternator is different, use the b16 on and remove/replace the pully so that the belts will work

as for the distributor.. you may have to re-pin this and you may need to get a NON OBD to OBD 1 harness adapter and get a re-chipped p28 for the swap.

if you can fit the original b16a distributor to the GSR then you will be ok. it should fit but the alignment points may be off

you can make it work, but it will take a little work.

the obd harness costs anywhere around 150 to 250, check on hybrid alley (www.hybridforum.com) and ask there, someone makes them there, I forget who.
as for the p28, go to a local salvage yard and pick one up.. somewhere around a 100 bucks and to rechip it around 150.

you will do all this if you want to use the gsr distriubtor since obd1/2 is not plug and play compatible to non obd 88-91 civic/crx wiring..

good luck, hope that helps

remember, stick with the engine harness that comes with the car, dont try to modify another engine harness to your car, your ASKING FOR HEADACHES

 

You can use the B16a harness, and the B16a ecu. Just take the OBD1 distr and repin it using a OBD0 plug.

Or you can do it the best way: Get the OBD1 P28 ecu (with this ecu, no need to worry about the IAB and crap), OBd1 injectors, and OBD gsr distr, and 4 wire O2, stock harness, buy a conversion harness for OBD0-OBD1 for 140 +shipping.

Where has this guy been?


[Modified by Blown90hatcH, 11:27 AM 12/12/2001]

 

Sorry, you do use the original si harness with the car.....
BUT, use distributor off of b16a....

 

I went ahead and ordered a skunk2 manifold today.. from what I have heard this is going to make my life alot easier.. do you guys agree..

 

You won't have to wire in the ******* butterfly valve. plus you will gain nice in top end flow


[Modified by SpooN Man, 2:09 AM 12/13/2001]

 

since you guys are talkin about b18s i was wondering if i can just replace my b16 block with the b18 block w/o modifications...if there are any mod i need to make what are they??

 

What B18c? C1 or C5?

B18C1 is not *hard* to swap since you can use the B16's harness and ECU. C5 is a different story: http://crxfiles.hondapowered.com

 

its a b18c1.. I wish I had a c5 DAMN.. anyway my manifold will be here friday so I will bolt it up and start doing my wire harness friday night or saturday.. besides the temp sensor and the O2s are there any other changes I need to make in the wiring.. I'm gonna use the b16 dist. and either my pr3 or pw0 which ever runs better.

 

Why?

Check out the setup of a friend of mine:

- B18c1 21000km
- Crower connecting Rods (639$US)
- Jun Pistons (425$US)
- Jun valvesprings (152$US)
- Jun Titanium retainers (133$US)
- Web cams (499$US)
- AEM tru-power pulleys
- AEM tru-time cam gears
- AEM Cold air intake with bypass valve (189$US + 49$US)
- DC Sports 4-1 header (349$US)
- AEM fuel pressure regulator
- SCE copper head gasket (53.95$US)
- B18C5 JDM ECU ( 250$US on ebay)
- NGK Iridium spark plugs ( 40$US)
- Magnecor wires ( 50$US on ebay)
- A’PEXi VAFC (paid 385$US)

The results are awesome but very traction limited... next mods will be act stage 3 clutch, jackson racing aluminum flywheel and a Type-R lsd if I can find one.

Dyno tested at 237Hp@ 8100RPM

Torque: 172lb-ft @ 7100RPM

compression : 11.0:1


Who needs the C5??