purgat0ry

iTrader: (3)

Hokay,

I'm still in the research stages in preparation for my swap this summer...

I've got a Virgin Em1 that I'm swapping the stock B16a2 out of and replacing with a B18c (JDM).
Needless to say I'm a bit lost on the requirements for wiring.

Am I able to use the stock 99-00 Harness that is in the car currently and use a converter harness from ODB2b to ODB1 (tuning purposes)?
Or does this swap require that I keep the harness that will come with the engine? if that is required do I need to convert the dash harness as well or must I keep that and adapt it to fit?

Specifically I'll be nabbing one of the B18c's on HMO (http://goo.gl/j8KA0)

Forgive my ignorance on the topic, I'm just trying to get my ducks in a row before I spend money on something that doesn't work right

I've done some reading on the subject already but haven't turned up any definitive results, mostly just people doing odd things and wondering why it's not working properly (Half done butcher work)

HondaPartsHero

Is your B18 OBD1 or OBD2? That will change a lot of things

purgat0ry

iTrader: (3)

I'm still in the process of confirming that; sadly their on back order at the moment.

the 94-97 spec GS-R engines are between ODB1 and ODB2 periods aren't they?

I've got a feeling I'm asking these questions too soon

HondaPartsHero

Well heres the difference in case you get an OBD1 or OBD2 and what you'll have to do:

OBD1 (if using OBD1 ECU with OBD2B to OBD1 ECU adapter harness and your B16 harness)

A. Swap injectors over from your B16A or remove the blue connector piece inside your B16 harness and use the GSR's (they're both 240cc so it doesn't matter either way)


B. Swap alternator over from your B16A

C. Swap distributor over from your B16A

D. Use whatever intake arm and put the intake air temp sensor in it or use a round style connector and swap over connectors to your B16 harness and plug and play


E. Ignore plug by the crank (CKF sensor) as OBD1 doesn't use it


F. Ignore evap purge on the fuel rail as OBD1 won't throw a code for it


G.If you plan on using the B18C intake manifold, wire up the intake butterflies to the ECU



-all else should plug and play

OBD2 (using OBD2 ECU and your B16A harness)

A. Connect evap purge to vacuum as the B18 probably won't have it

B. If you plan on using the B18C intake manifold, wire up the intake butterflies to the ECU


C. Use whatever intake arm and put the intake air temp sensor in it or use a round style connector and swap over connectors to your B16 harness and plug and play

D. For CKF sensor by the crank the JDM B18 won't have it so you'll have to bypass it or swap oil pumps over from your B16
http://technet.ff-squad.com/ckftrick.htm

E. Its possible your B18C won't have a VTEC pressure switch, so you'll have to swap over the VTEC solenoid from your B16 over to the B18C


-all else plug and play

purgat0ry

iTrader: (3)

Holy hand grenades batman!

So in theory, that is all I need to do to convert the B16 ODB2b harness to ODB1 (pending I know the engine is ODB1)?

Just to be positive, if I change ECU's to be something more tune friendly, lets say a P28 running Hondata, with the above harness mods, I would just need an ODB2b to ODB1 jumper harness to get it plugged into the ECU (Ex: http://goo.gl/POCfo).

Well shoot; this is looking simpler than I once thought.

Spoon_Tuned_EK

Dang

HondaPartsHero

Yeah it looks like a lot but really isn't. If you use the P28 you can eliminate the knock sensor, IAB wiring, 2nd 02, evap purge, and the CKF.

HondaPartsHero

Nothing you need to do to the harness, after you swap parts it'll be plug and play.

CheLude NY

Im going swapping in a c5 into my 00 LS, odb2 to odb1 as well...I wanted to know if I can use my stock wiring harness or will I be missing plugs and other items not on my non-vtec harness?

B serious

iTrader: (1)

Ehh...not really. It doesn't change much at all.

OP, you never want to use a JDM harness or any other harness. The easiest and best thing to do is to just plug everything into your stock EM1 harness.

You will have to run wires from the ECU connector to the IAB solenoid (butterflies) if you plan on keeping the butterflies. That's really the only additional wiring you have to do.

As far as the CKF sensor, you will have to add this onto any B series JDM swap or resove the issue with a wiring trick. If you need to have that sensor for emissions, you will need to buy a USDM oil pump housing. I believe they're all the same, but buy a GSR one to be safe. www.bernardiparts.com is a good place for OEM Acura/Honda parts.

If you live in a state like IL where they do plug in pass/fail emissions testing without checking for individual sensors visually, The CKF wiring trick works. I have done the CKF wiring trick on my cars and it works like a charm for emissions with a USDM OBD2 ECU.

As far as ECU options, you can just use the ECU that comes with the swap. You will need some sort of conversion harness depending on which OBD you go with. When it comes time for emissions, swap back in your EM1 ECU...or any OBD2B D/B series manual ECU.

If your state doesn't require emissions, you can always just use an OBD1 or JDM OBD2 ECU and forget all about the CKF.


The nice thing about the EM1 harness is that the whole thing from ECU to engine comes out of the car when swapping the motor. This makes wiring work easy. There are 2 10mm nuts underneath the battery tray (remove the battery tray). Tug on the boot and the wiring will come out. Obviously, the wiring has to be seperated from the ECU when you do this.

As far as misc. other things:
-Re-use your original distributor.
-Re-use your original injectors (if your swap is OBD1).
-Find a creative way to mount your EVAP solenoid that's mounted to your b16a2 manifold.
-Using a T-fitting, you can T the PCV hose and EVAP hose into one and plug it into the PCV nipple on the JDM manifold. JDM manifolds have 1 nipple vs. the US OBD2 manifold having 2.
-Reuse your VTEC solenoid.


That's really it.

I can also advise that you probably shouldn't get rid of the original B16A2 if there's nothing wrong with it. Numbers matching Si's are becoming hard to find and are becoming more valuable. You're going to drop the overall value on your car with that GSR swap. An ITR swap would add a small amount of value to the car...but I still wouldn't do it.

If it were my car, I definitely wouldn't swap out the numbers matching motor for a GSR swap. I swapped mine out for a 00 spec ITR swap with an Endyn head. I kinda regretted it since my EM1 had all matching VIN tagged body panels...and the VINs under the hood were now non-matching.

If it were a beat up EM1 or theft recovery or an EX or something, I'd swap away.

If you decide to do this swap anyway, re-use your S4C trans. The GSR has the most awful gearing.

Good luck with the swap.

purgat0ry

iTrader: (3)

I do plan on keeping the B16A2; and to be honest, I'm not married to the idea of putting a boosted GSR in it; I've actually been keeping an eye out for other appealing shells that I can dump it into for awhile.

Where I do have a head gasket leak in the B16 currently and it's got 178k mi on it, I've been debating just popping the stock B16A2 and rebuilding that back to OE(ish)

The body is 100% original at this point, some dings and dents that I need to get ontop of, but the car (save for exhaust (it rusted out for a second time) is now an Apexi WS II cat back) is in incredibly good shape still, I'm really in love with the EM1 lol

I dunno, you've inspired a new train of thought just now.
We will see.

Deetz

I picked up a 00 model jdm spec B18C(r) engine/tranny for my em1. Like others have mentioned, it's worth keeping the original numbers matching engine/tranny, if that's important to you and future value.

The swap is mostly plug and play imo. You can reuse your original harness. The B16 and B18C use all of the same sensors and connectors. As mentioned, re-using the original vtec solenoid works just fine. You are best off to buy a new oil pump and CF sensor if staying obd2, if going obd1, don't worry about it.

On obd1 conversion is almost as easy as buying an ecu and jumper harness. For my swap, i opted to go with an OBD2A conversion with a harness jumper and a usdm P73 ecu which is great because i don't have to deal with an immobilizer that the newer ecu have.