I've got a JDM H22A in my car now, its my recent upgrade from my H23 ... I wanted an H23vtec, but it wasnt available... so my question is .. whats the cheapest way to strok this beast if I wanted to?

Either by using F20 or H23 crank, would I be able to re-use my H22 rods/pistons or would I need to replace the rods... if replacing rods, will they be a PnP fit to the H22 pistons ..

What am I looking at for clearance? ..

 

an F20 crank would result in a de-stroking. an H23 crank would result in a stroking.

If you used H22 pistons & rods with an F20 crank, you would have rediculously low compression and not fully benifit from the de-stroking (which is less stress at higher RPM)

If you used H22 pistons & rods with an H23 crank, your H22 pistons would poke out the top of the block, and although it wouldn't be enough to actually cause the rings to pop out, it would be enough to conflict with the head.

You would need H23 or H23-length-equivelent custom rods. I have heard that you must modify H22 pistons to fit a stock H23 rod, but I am not sure if there is truth to that.

 

My bad, I must've been thinking F22 then ..

As for rods, since H series stuff is so expensive .. What rods would I be able to use ?

 

you can probably find stock H23 rods under the cushion of many people's couches. It seems every other person on here has or has had at one time a H23 short block or H23 internals for sale.

The rods are about $90 each, brand new from Honda.

edit: as it turns out, F22 and H23 crank & rods are the exact same. So, between all the F22 and H23 blocks out there, you would probably trip over one if you walked around with your eyes closed. The supply of used internals is virtually limitless from these motors.

new from honda:

Rod, cap, bolts, and nuts
13210-PT3-A00 - $90.23

Crankshaft
13310-P0A-000 - $649.24


Modified by Greyout at 7:41 AM 9/23/2004

 

As has been mentioned, a 95mm stroke crank and rods from a H23/F22 would probably be the cheapest way to stroke a H22. H22 pistons CAN be used with this setup, and this has been documented on HT a couple times. The compression height is different though, so carefully checking clearances is called for. You end up with high compression doing this though (~11.7). If you don't wan't high compression, it may be simpler to swap assembled blocks. You say you upgraded from a H23, do you still have the H23 to get parts from? There are a few good threads going now on H23VTEC and mixing/matching various F and H series parts.

 

or you can just buy a h23 short block loaded.

 

My H23 has a spun bearring so maybe I can use 3 rods, but im not going to touch the crank ..

Using the H23 bottom end is only going to yield me 9.1:1 compression, bump that up another point and its ~10hp, since im aiming at all motor with no interest in boosting .. it would be nice to hit a stroked h22 daily driver with +10 CR... So, should I be using H23/F22 crank, H23/F22 rods and H22 pistons rebushed for the pins?

 

stroking + cheap = rebuild + expensive

 

Satan, say I was like you and didnt care if my engine died ...

If I wanted to ghetto rig an equal H23 Vtec ... and had afully working H22, what is the minimal bottom end I'd need to change ?

I'm aiming ~10:1 compression .. What rods/pistsons/crank do you recommend?

 

I was thinking about using my H23 block with a spun bearing, getting an F23 crank, then have the H23 block mains bored to 55mm, have the crank balanced, and have even a larger displacement motor than the H23.

I never followed up on it because I am getting out of Hondas now. Might be something you should look into.

 

Cheapest stroker motor = H22 you have, H23 crank, H23 rods, H22 pistons, new rings/bearings/gaskets.

 

Ludeycrus: thanks ... do you know what needs to be done to the rods ? .. Just re-bushed for the wrist pins to line up ?

Are there any F series rods/crank that are the same size and are compatible with this setup ? (F series might be cheaper / more available)

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by flyrod &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">As has been mentioned, a 95mm stroke crank and rods from a H23/F22 would probably be the cheapest way to stroke a H22. H22 pistons CAN be used with this setup, and this has been documented on HT a couple times. The compression height is different though, so carefully checking clearances is called for. You end up with high compression doing this though (~11.7). If you don't wan't high compression, it may be simpler to swap assembled blocks. You say you upgraded from a H23, do you still have the H23 to get parts from? There are a few good threads going now on H23VTEC and mixing/matching various F and H series parts.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I thought f23 cranks were 97mm?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by yohan &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ludeycrus: thanks ... do you know what needs to be done to the rods ? .. Just re-bushed for the wrist pins to line up ?

Are there any F series rods/crank that are the same size and are compatible with this setup ? (F series might be cheaper / more available)</TD></TR></TABLE>

I think you can use h22a4 rods with the f23 crank because they have the same sized mains this may not me cheaper but you will have more torque than an h23VTEC.

This is if you did not want to bore out the h23 mains in order to accept the h23/h22 rods.

 

from the edited post above, looks like I can get some F22 Crank/Rods ... If I can get the rods modified to work w/ my H22 pistons the F22 internals should be next to nothing with all the F/Hseries hybrid mating going on .. (Nobody said anything about using an F23 crank ..)

This would be the cheapest ...

Can anybody say for sure if the H22 pistons on H23 rods will clear the head ?

 

With an F23 crank your H22 pistons will stick out of the block .035" and give you the possibility of clearance problems. Also because of the stroke you should not rev much past 6500 and the block may require notching for rod clearance. The rods are unique not like the F22/H23 and as far as I know only pauter and Crower make rods for it at about $700 a pop. So you can get an F23 crank cheap but requires more work to get it to work well with an H block/head/rev limit.

Pirate

 

What H22 do you have? A1, A4?

On an H22A/H22A1, you don't need to modify the H23 rods at all. Just press on the pistons, balance the bottom end, and you're ready to go.

On an H22A4, you must have the small end of the H23 rod rebushed to accept the floating wrist pin the H22A4 uses.

 

JDM h22a baby .. oh yea ..

so looks like I can even do this by hoisting up the car and going in from underneath the oil pan ... hmmmm... the F23 crank is out of the question, .. when you talk about notching the block, that costs $$ .. hell no! This is to stroke it cheap .

F22 rods, Crank, and my H22A pistons .. really, how much can f22 rods/crank cost ? .. cheapy cheapy ...

I should get some and throw it in my H23A1 and sell it off just to get some hands on experience..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LudeyKrus &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What H22 do you have? A1, A4?
On an H22A/H22A1, you don't need to modify the H23 rods at all. Just press on the pistons, balance the bottom end, and you're ready to go.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

If he has an h22 crank,
how is he going to use the h23 rods though.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but don't you have to
match the crank with the rods?

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LudeyKrus &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Cheapest stroker motor = H22 you have, H23 crank, H23 rods, H22 pistons, new rings/bearings/gaskets.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I agree with you here