Txdragon

Shortened the hose. When I removed it, oil poured out. As if it's pooling in the turbo while the car isn't running. This normal? Shouldn't there be really none until the car is running? Hopefully, it's just because the line hadn't drained right.

Adjusted A/F at VTEC kick in and it's now smooth as a baby's bottom. Turbo spool starts about 500 rpm before VTEC. So by 4000 rpm, all hell breaks loose! Boost right now is at 4psi. Gonna hold it there til my next oil change (should be 500 miles). A few little wrinkles to iron out still before I put any real spirited driving. Need to loosen the timing belt a tad and I did an old mechanic's trick with a cardboard box under the engine while it was parked overnight. To those that don't know; it helps discover leaks. It pointed out I have a small coolant leak on the passenger side rear. I'd bet my next paycheck it's coming from the thermostat housing.

I'm still really nervous about driving it. I don't want anything to go boom.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

The return hose will still be pressurized. Even with the car off, a good amount of oil will still be within the hose. That's normal. Readjusting the slope is a good idea, but out must be smooth in the transiting. If you're nervous, post up ta few photos of the retum at several angles

Txdragon

Looks much better now than it did. It was slightly angled up at the pan. SLIGHTLY. Straight now with a very slight downward at the pan. Smooth, no bends.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

1) You need to do high pressure (300psi) rubber hose to work with this oil return. I can see that the nylon inside that braided hose. Time to get something a bit sturdier.
2) Slope is much nicer
3) Tapped pan location is in a good spot. But you need to keep the 1/2" hose.

Txdragon

It's a new hose, I reused the stainless sleeve and I know it wasn't the BEST option to trim with, but my only one: a hacksaw. So it looks rough around the edges, I'll trim the ends properly when I get some actual snips. It actually looked worse before I took some fingernail clippers to
Each.. Little.. Strand.. Tedious and semi-effective.

Took it out for a longer drive yesterday evening. It runs smooth. Boosted a couple times, still getting smoke following boost. I'm thinking I may have a PCV issue. Seems after boost it will smoke, when i get back on the gas pedal, not really at all during boost. At least, nothing noticeable.
Should be getting a new PCV valve this morning and hopefully this will eliminate the issue. If not, I suppose I need to pull some pipes off and see if any oil buildup around TB.

GoldieWang

You can cut SS hose with a cutting wheel on a grinder so long as you take a couple extra steps.

1. Wrap it with tape very tightly at the spot you plan to cut. Don't be greedy, use a lot of tape.
2. Make sure you are square over the hose before cutting so you can provide a good seal in the fittings.
3. Get those shavings out of the hose, I've used compressed air or water.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

Don't get an OEM PCV valve. Use a one-way check valve from a Volvo S80 (It's a one-way check valve from its brake booster) It will do FAR better than anything Honda OEM-related, or any aquatic check-valve

Txdragon

Ok so. This woulda been good to know yesterday lol! I think I found my issue. in THIS THREAD My car is behaving exactly like this. I noticed today that it smokes in 3rd gear on decel, primarily when going downhill and only after boost. I also noticed that I do not seem to have the "umph" that I should at my given psi, being that this turbo pulled like a beast in the B7 in these ranges and it seems sluggish now. Runs smooth and boosts very nicely but 4-6 psi does not feel like 4-6 psi did. I also disabled my VTEC and the smoke became less noticeable. Still existent, but less. Valve stem seals be my culprit methinks. Your thoughts?

Txdragon

Pulled my charge pipe off today and it is dry as a bone. Good sign there. More arrows pointing toward valve seals. Tomorrow, those get replaced. Too much going on today to get that done. Still looking around for a dyno shop to get this thing properly tuned. Sent some emails to a couple of the closest, still over 2 hours away, and no responses yet. Sigh.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

Good tuning places are becoming further and further away. Get used to the idea that you're either going to have to drive slow, or tow to the dyno to get it properly tuned.

JRCivic1

Txdragon, where are you located ???

Txdragon

The 2 close ones to me are actually 4 and 6 hours away, respectively. The 6 hour trip is Rowlett, Tx, and the 4 hour trip is Tulsa, Ok. I am comfortable enough with my tune to drive to either one, I have kept it pretty modest. lol! I am definitely no expert but with all the tuning I have been working with over the last year and change, the B7 internals and plugs looked fantastic! I did something right somewhere. However, I know it is NOWHERE near what it could be and I will not just trust myself to just "butt dyno" this one. This may not be the most extensive, nor anything to compete with a lot of the builds on the site, but there is blood, sweat, and tears invested. lol.

Middle of nowhere, Arkansas. Originally from San Antonio, moved out this way near 3 and a half years ago. Nothing to do here unless you enjoy peace and quiet. Although, Little Rock seems to be a town constantly in the headlines. Don't go there without body armor; people constantly getting shot.

Txdragon

Ok, so I'm learning more about the ol' VTEC. I got some really good pulls on the highway today and set my VTEC point after turbo spool rather than right on top of it. Wow!! Turbo starts spooling nicely at 4k and i've set VTEC to kick around 4600. There is a noticeable transition now. The pull feels MUCH harder. Played around with timing a bit more and at VTEC kick I am at 12.6 afr 27 deg timing advance and 5.7 psi from the turbo at that point. I need to bring the fuel up a couple notches, AFR got a bit jagged, between 13 and 12 around then. Timing was comfortable. I'm getting there.
I am shooting for 300hp by the time I can get dyno tuned. I am estimating I am in the 200-220 range right now.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

Told you.. VTEC makes a difference. But AFR is still a little lean at 12.7-13.0 at WOT like that. Needs to be at about 11.4-12.0 Maximum with better timing. Check those plugs every so often since you don't have an EGT gauge.

Txdragon

That's only at 40% throttle. I'm ashamed to say it, but, I've not yet hit WOT yet.. I'm going slow. It seems I am still terrified to hear something go boom after the B7 incident. I'm getting there. Had my best pulls to date as of yesterday! Soon.. Soon! And better timing as in I can give more, or take some away? I found some info in various places that 20 deg at 10 psi was doing well for them, or was where they settled at tuning. I figured I'd half the difference on that. Trying to get to where I'm a bit less til I see the dyno.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

Additional timing is what I'm referring to, but honestly, I think you need to setup now and let the tuner do the rest. You've made great strides now.. Don't push it. Stop now..show patience. Head to tuner 👌🏽

Txdragon

Ah, I see. Yeah, all I'm really doing is just ironing out wrinkles. Tuned up a few lean spots in the cruise zone, tweaking the timing in some of the higher boost zones, etc. I'm not really tuning for performance at this point. Like you said, I think I've squeezed out the best I could on street tuning, now the rest is gonna be left to the pros. I can post up my maps if you'd care to take a look so far?

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

Thanks, but I'm really not the best tuning map interperalator. I do turbos..... That's what I do..

Txdragon

So on a road run today, it decided to just keep over and die. Crank, no start. Basic troubleshooting... I've got fuel, timing didn't jump, compression is 210, 210, 210, 215, tested that twice. Identical readings.. I put the spark plugs in the boots and looks as if I got no spark. Like my dizzy just took a **** all of a sudden? I dunno. Anything I may be missing?

Txdragon

I pulled the distributor, looks ok mechanically. Doesn't mean the coil didn't just totally fail. Sigh. Checked all fuses and none blown. I'm stumped. Ordered a new distributor. Should arrive wed or thurs. Guess I'll see what other testing I can do in the meantime..

Balor_Gr

Did you checked with another icm?

Txdragon

I just pulled the old distributor out of the shed that I replaced from my B7. It had a code 9, but I don't think that would affect the coil or ignitor. About to swap those components over and pray. Lol. If that's all good, the new dizzy will certainly solve it and I can run Frankenstein until it arrives.

Txdragon

Well, as luck would have it, I busted the rotor button trying to remove it. The screw WILL NOT budge. I even locked down some vice grips. Nada. Dammit. Now it's down til thursday when the dizzy arrives.. Sigh.. Well, guess I can use this little bit of down time to replace the valve stem seals and some vac lines..

Txdragon

Woohoo!!! New dizzy installed and she fired right up! Thank you, baby Jesus!!

Balor_Gr

Ready for a dyno.