Jas29

how do you replace or clean the EGR valve on a 2001 honda accord?
any help will be appreciated

racingcrx

If you buy a chilton or haynes repair manual it will show you how.

nus_dogg

Get a Haynes. Chilton is confusing.

redbull-1

1. Let me ask first, why are you wanting to replace or clean the EGR valve? Do you have a Check Engine Light? If so, get the trouble code and post it. Depending on where you live, some Autozones/Advanced Auto will read it for free. Many times it may be the EGR port(s) clogged causing the code.

2. You didn't say whether it is a 4 cylinder or V6.

3. Generally, to remove the EGR valve: Disconnect 6P connector, remove two 8mm nuts to remove EGR valve. Replace EGR valve gasket when reinstalling.

Jas29

redbull-1

Step 16 in the following TSB is for the EGR valve for a V6.

http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/tsb/accord/A99-085.pdf

Jas29

thanks, this is what i was looking for

question tho it says flat rate time is 1.5 hours that how long it takes right, because my dealer said it could take from 3 hours to 4.

redbull-1

The flat rate time of 1.5 hours is what Honda of America will essentially reimburse the dealer for the service if it is under warranty, even if the dealer does it in less time or more time. Manufacturer warranty labor times are generally less than standard time.

I believe most service centers will charge around 3 hours standard labor for this service, as they have to take off the intake manifold. You can also call some other dealers and independent Honda service shops to get a quote to alleviate your concerns. Here is a link which will give some info. too:

http://www.justanswer.com/questions/...on-a-98-accord

slomofo

iTrader: (1)

If it's a V6, then 99% of the time the EGR port is clogged. The V6 Accord uses the same GM EGR valve found on Corsicas, Luminas, Passports, Rodeos, and pretty much every other car with an electronic EGR that GM has touched. Remove the two 12mm nuts that holds the valve on and the valve comes off, pretty simple. Same removal procedure for both V6 and 4 cylinder, but if it's a V6, I would just get a coat hanger and dig it through the ports on the intake manifold, then start the car with the valve off to blow out all the crap you cleaned out. Put a new gasket on, put the valve back on, clear the codes, then drive it around.

Removal shouldn't take more than 2 minutes.

AWest

I have an 01 Accord V6 and I just cleaned out the egr port on the manifold. It was completely clogged. I cleaned the intake on the lower part of the engine block as well and reset the codes using a scanner from the local auto parts store. However, I am still throwing and egr flow error code and both the check engine light and tcs light come on. It says in the service notice that I need to override two trip error detection. I can only find one error. Is that my issue or do I need to pull the egr valve itself and clean anything out from there?

AWest

I am pretty much stuck here trying to add onto other peoples posts since I am a newb and can not start a new thread. I have pulled off the manifold and cleaned the ports (twice). I have replaced the EGR valve. But whenever I accelerate hard I get an instant check engine light and TCS light. Same code of P1491. Insufficient EGR flow. Does anyone know of any other fixes? Is it somehow related to an oxygen sensor not performing up to its load? Could I just have a bad (brand new) egr valve? If so how do you test it? There are no hoses to plug on this v6 egr. Just the the port on the bottom and the valve.

Akkord2k1

Bring this back from the dead... I'm having this issue also. Code P0401. Can someone show me where the EGR is? If I know where it is, I can take it off and clean it. How long did it take you to remove the Intake Manifold and clean it? I have Carb cleaner to use...

poorman212

Did you click on the link and read it....it also has nice pictures.

Akkord2k1

Yeah I did, I found what I needed from that manual.

NanceJC

For those wanting feedback --

Stalling/irregular idle/more and more difficult to start problem --

Removed and cleaned the EGR valve. Car ran better -- did not stall out from idling too low -- but had difficulty starting.

Battery would not hold charge. Replaced.

Car running great now.

I have no idea if the very clogged EGR valve was part of the problem or the battery was just going anyway. But fixing both worked.

Ketchupmaker

i know nothing about cars. If I remove those screws and dig around in there, is there any sort of electrical safety procedure I need to perform first? Or can I pop the hood, then straight away take the screws out and start doing stuff to the EGR valve and passageways? If so, can I then clean it out and use the Honda kit to put the pipe in myself and replace the EGR valve and gasket without doing literally anything else?

AzAssassin

I don't know if I'm likely to get a reply, as there hasn't been much activity in this thread over the past few years, but I have some questions about replacing the EGR Valve on my 2000 Honda Accord LX, so I wanted to at least post and see if I might get some helpful replies.

My vehicle is a 2000 Accord LX V6 3.0L with around 244,000 miles on it. The engine has been experiencing frequent misfires, as well as some occasional overheating problems, for the past few months, but my life has been miserable and stressful from other issues going on, so I have been putting off trying to get this taken care of for several months. Too long, I know.

I went to the local Auto Zone and had the codes pulled, and while there is NOT a P401 code listed, the printout that they gave me does specifically have the EGV Valve listed under 'Suggested Parts' in the middle of the paper. It does specifically list Codes P300, P301, P302, P304 and P305, though, which are all Misfire Codes. It also lists Code P0118, which is for the Engine Cooler Temperature Sensor Circuit High Input; and Code P0116, which is for Engine Cooler Temperature Sensor Range/Performance.

Before buying/replacing the EGR Valve, about a month ago, I bought all new spark plugs and had them installed, along with an oil change, but that didn't fix the misfire issue, nor did it clear the Maint Reg'd light. So, it looks like I need to replace the EGR Valve and, likely, the Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor (which I already have, after buying it on eBay a few months back).

So, my questions are these:

1.) Where should I buy an EGR Valve? Amazon or eBay? Or some other online store? RockAuto? PartsGeek?
1a.) Or should I try taking off the EGR Valve and cleaning out the ports before buying a new EGR valve? If so, how easy/difficult is accessing and cleaning the ports?
2.) Is removing the old EGR Valve and installing the new one likely something that I can do myself? If so, is it difficult and/or time-consuming? Lots of tools needed?
3.) As for cleaning the EGR Ports, how difficult and time-consuming is that? And can you just buy new ports? Or is cleaning them the only practical option? If so, how to clean?
4.) Do I also need to buy an EGR Valve Gasket? Or will/should a gasket be included with a new EGR Valve?
5.) How hard would it be to replace the Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor? And what tools are needed?
6.) Should I use some sort of fuel system cleaner (Seafoam?) in the meantime? Will that likely help? Or possibly hurt/damage something?

Sorry for asking so many questions, but trying to research stuff like this can be overwhelming to me and that's part of the reason I have been putting it off for so long. However, I now have a long commute to and from work - 76 miles each way, so 152 miles round tip, 4 days a week - and while (what I assume are) the misfires and really annoying sometimes, my car has struggled to fire up and start lately and has hesitated to come to a good/full idle for like 30 seconds or so, so it made me realize that I really need to start working on getting these repairs done ASAP. So if some of you with more knowledge on this stuff would reply and offer me some helpful advice and information, it would definitely be very much appreciated!

smithers646

I'm not sure that you need to replace the EGR instead of cleaning. I'm not even sure it's the EGR.

I have you bracketed (1994 and 2009) so I'm not 'in rate" on your engine. (someone please correct me on any errors). But two codes on coolant temp - that's where I'd start. BTW, did the dashboard meter show it was also running hot (above half is abnormal)? Is the coolant in the radiator full, or can you see the tubes inside? Notice any leakage, even just a few drops on the floor? No? then it's probably just a bad sensor. Not too difficult on 94. Get a book (Haynes at AutoZone or similar), do some googling/YouTube, and you should be fine.

Regarding the EGR- if you've scraped mud out of sneakers, then you can clean the EGR ports. Getting there- it's not black magic. Remove what's in the way, keep track of the removed fasteners/parts/hose connections (pictures beforehand will help), and then the reverse. The book is great help. Usually it's not the EGR valve per se- the valve puts exhaust back into the air intake through a labyrinth and small holes. Those get choked up with carbon black, and you have to remove the clog.

And just to gauge your LOK to improve any future answers: What's the most complicated thing you've done to any engine? And roughly how many tools in your toolbox- 5, 20,100?

AzAssassin

First off, thank you very much for replying. I really appreciate it!

As for the EGR Valve issue, I had actually edited my post to specifically ask if I should try cleaning the ports first, before buying a new EGR Valve. So, with regards to that, would you say that I should definitely try to clean the ports first and see if that helps/makes a significant difference? Is it possible/likely that the EGR Valve could/should still be in good condition, even if the ports have been clogged up? Or has the EGR Valve likely been damaged by the clogging of the ports?

As for the overheating, well, that requires something of thorough description. For starters, I had a brand new radiator installed (by a family friend) about 5-6 months ago. I had a major overheating issues while driving one day, to the point where steam was shooting out from underneath my hood, and when I got out of my car to look, I could see that steam was still shooting directly out of my radiator, and I could see a crack in the top of it. Fortunately, I was able to drive to a gas station and out some water in and get back home that day. So, it was obvious that I needed a new radiator. The family friend ordered me a new radiator and installed it for me, and everything (apparently/seemingly) went smoothly, as the overheating issue was completely gone and the car ran at a nice, cool temperature for several months - up until about 2-3 weeks ago, when my car got really hot and the temperature gauge was basically showing all the way overheated. So, it would seem that I have a leak somewhere, since I ended up needing to put over a gallon of anti-freeze/water back in the radiator after it overheated.

As I mentioned, I have a long commute to/from work, 76 miles each way, and it's mostly on a highway that runs up and down through the mountains between Payson, Arizona, and Scottsdale, Arizona, and there are some pretty serious uphill stretches going each way. These stretches are anywhere from 5 to 10 miles long and are at a pretty steep grade, with one of them having a warning sign at the bottom about keeping your car's Air Condition turned off, since the uphill stretch of highway puts such a strain on engines. Well, pathetically, I am not as responsible as I should be, so I often don't leave for work early/on time, so I have to haul *** and speed for much of the 76 miles that I drive to work. And the drive to work this includes driving up two of these steep stretches of highway, that are both about 5 miles long, which surely puts my engine through a lot. And when I am really late to leave for work, I am talking about driving between 95-105 mph. for 20-30 miles of my drive, so I believe/assume that putting my engine through such harsh driving has probably contributed to it getting hot and, ultimately, overheating. Does this make sense? Can driving your car at high speeds (95-105 mph) for 20-30 minutes at a time make your engine heat up and cause something to break/mess up/spring a leak? Could it be that I need a new thermostat? And that the thermostat is not opening up properly when water needs to be circulating, and that this is causing the engine to run hotter than it should be?

And with regards to the Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor, could this needing to be replaced contribute to the engine overheating? Or, as I thought/assumed, does the Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor only affect the actual temperature gauge in your dash and the way it functions? Or am I wrong, and this can actually affect the car's engine?

Also, as for tools, I currently have very few of them. Like, a pathetic amount; and only basic tools (screwdrivers, pliers, small vice grips, a crescent wrench and, maybe, a few sockets).

Sorry for writing so much. If you would reply again when you get a chance, I would really appreciate it. And I will try to keep my replies shorter.

smithers646

Oy. That's some important background!
Bottom line: Your cooling system is not up to the task. There's a number of things that can cause this. Good call btw on turning off AC- that's a monster load (both torque and heat) that can exacerbate the problem greatly.

If you're committed to doing this yourself (Kudos!) then you're going to need a manual (Haynes is a good starter, at nearly any parts store) for your year group. Also, metric sockets (3/8" drive is essential; and 1/4" preferred) and an extension or two. 10 and 12 mm will be used most frequently but the others are needed too. You should also have a torque wrench, at least to 80 ft-lbs.

But before you get after the shopping list do this: Pull the oil dipstick and look at what's there. Is it shiny and translucent, like (hopefully weak) black coffee, or cloudy, like coffee with creamer? Driving with an overheat can blow the head gasket and possibly warp the head. This lets exhaust into the coolant, coolant into the oil, oil into combustion-any or all. Worse things happen after that. Any smoke from the tailpipe? Post back with what you find.

AzAssassin

OK, I found the Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor that I bought a while back (I wasn't sure exactly where it was) and I'm going to try to install it today. However, I'm not sure which tool I need to remove the Sensor? From what I read in another thread, it's a 19MM size, but I'm not sure if a wrench or socket (deep or standard) is best/necessary? Does anyone on here know?

Also, I took some pictures of my engine compartment and I'm hoping that someone could help me verify that I've properly located the Coolant Temp Sensor and the EGR valve.

If I'm right about where the EGR Valve is on my motor, it seems like it might be really quick and simple to remove the EGR Valve and then access the ports to clean them. However, I'm pretty ignorant about this stuff, so I might be way off. If the EGR valve is easily-accessible/removable, are the ports easily-accessible once the EGR Valve is removed? And if so, do I just try to get a metal hanger and physically scrape out the ports for a few minutes? Is it really as simple as that? Or not?

The new Coolant Temperature Sensor I have to install.
Is this the EGR Valve with the blue sticker on top of it? And which of these two is the Coolant Temperature Sensor, 1 or 2?
Is this the Coolant Temp Sensor? It inserts horizontally and is right by the thermostat, I believe.

AzAssassin

FYI, I tried to post a reply several hours ago, but I attached 3 pictures to it, so the post apparently needs to be approved by a moderator before it can be viewed. Since it's already been several hours and the post is still not visible, though, I wanted to respond to your post and thank you for taking the time to reply. I actually decided to try to install the new Coolant Temperature Sensor that I've had for several months, and after being able to borrow a 22mm wrench from the local O'Reilly's Auto Parts store and letting my car sit and cool down for over an hour, I went outside to try to remove the old Coolant Temperature Sensor, only for the 22mm wrench to seemingly/apparently not fit the damn thing. I don't know if it's only because of the difficult angle I had to try to reach the old Sensor at, or if it's actually that a different size wrench is needed for the OEM part (23mm?), but I could not get the 22mm wrench to fit on to the Coolant Temperature Sensor that is currently installed in my car.

I'm also not sure if I was even trying to remove the correct sensor, as there are two similar-looking parts; one that goes in vertically, and another that goes in horizontally (which is the one I was trying to remove). The vertically-installed sensor looks to use a significantly smaller size head (18-19mm, I'd guess?), and the guy at O'Reilly's Auto Parts said that this actually may be an Oil Sensor. And the horizontally-installed sensor looks to be about the same size as the brand new Coolant Temperature Sensor that I got from eBay, so I'm assuming the horizontal one is actually the Coolant Temperature Sensor on my 2000 Accord LX V6.

However, on another forum, someone posted a YouTube video of a Coolant Temperature Sensor replacement on a 3.5L Honda Odyssey (which may be why this was different) and that sensor was installed vertically, and it was very easily-accessible, so I thought that I would easily be able to do this removal/install myself. But, like I mentioned, the vertical sensor on my Accord looks to have a much smaller head on it than the brand new Coolant Temperature Sensor part that I have to install; and the guy uses a 19mm wrench in that YouTube video, while the new Coolant Temperature Sensor that I have uses a 22mm size wrench, so I'm guessing that the Coolant Temperature Sensor on that Honda Odyssey uses a smaller part than my Accord does. Unless, I'm mistaken, and the part I have is not actually the Coolant Temperature Sensor.

I tried to post pictures of these parts on my engine that I took earlier today, and I added some text to them, to try to point out what exactly I was talking/asking about, but the damn thing still has not been posted, so I'm trying to describe it to you now.

The part on my Accord that I believe is the Coolant Temperature Sensor is installed/inserted horizontally, and it looks like it inserts right by the thermostat (I'm not sure of this, though). Can anyone confirm whether or not the Coolant Temperature Sensor on a 2000 Accord LX V6 3.0L does actually install horizontally/sideways? Or does it install/go in vertically?

Sorry to make this so long and confusing, but I'm frustrated that my post with the pictures attached still has not posted, as it would make this process of determining which part is actually the Coolant Temperature Sensor on my car much easier. And I'm frustrated that I could not get (what I assume/believe is) the old Coolant Temperature Sensor removed, after borrowing the 22mm wrench from O'Reilly's Auto Parts.

As for checking what my oil looks like, I haven't done that yet; but I can say that I haven't noticed any smoke coming out of my exhaust. I'm also way past due for an oil change, so I'm going to try to get an oil change next week. And while my car is there, I'm going to see if they can do a coolant system pressure check and see if they can find out where the leak is. Plus, I'm sure that they can tell me what the oil that comes out of my car looks like and if a blown head gasket is possible/likely.

By the way, I am very worried about the possibility of having blown a head gasket, as a major repair could prove to be devastating to me right now, as I do not have the means to come up with an amount of money like $1,000, assuming that a new head gasket and labor would cost around/more than that. And if I did have access to $1,000, I would just try to buy a cheap car to drive around, as that's why I had thought about trying to do after the overheating issues started a few weeks ago.

So, I wanted to ask: If the head gasket was blown, would the water likely be leaking so severely/rapidly that the radiator/engine would run out of water on a daily basis just from driving around for a few miles? Because, like I said, if I don't speed like a maniac and go 95-plus MPH while driving to work, I can actually drive to work and back, which is 152 miles total, and up some pretty major hills in both directions, without my car overheating or getting really hot. Would that be realistically possible if a head gasket was blown? Or could the head gasket be blown, but just not completely blown/ruined?

Basically, I'm trying to determine if the head gasket on my car may actually be blown? Or if it's likely something else that is less severe/expensive?

As usual, I apologize for the lengthy post. And I really appreciate the efforts to help!

smithers646

I think your engine coolant temp sensor is working just fine. You actually overheated the car, and it threw the codes.
So, you've been to O'Reilly's and got a wrench, good. Did you get the BOOK THAT TELLS YOU HOW TO FIX YOUR CAR? (maybe the third time, in all caps, is the charm)
No one here can tell you if your head gasket is blown-- esp. if you won't even pull the dipstick and look! [Ed Lover-"C'mon, son!"] That is just one of the checks for the head gasket- there's at least three others, and they're more involved than that. check these things out and come back with some results.
The book is not 'ultimate knowledge.' But it will tell you (for example) where that sensor is (with pictures), how to determine if it is in fact bad, and how to switch it out. It will also tell you -right up front- how to change your own oil(!!). Easy as pie.
Don't take this wrong, we're all very happy to help, esp. for someone starting out (at least I am). But the blog can't do all the thinking, and it can't do any of the doing.