Lol dont worry I wouldnt post here if I were worried about my feelings when it comes to this. All help is appreciated. I never tried to crank the motor before since the car sat for a long time/had a loud knock as per the prev owner/ and battery was bad.

ill check out fuel trims. And may try that indicator light method since im also gonna go get starter fluid. I want to test that im getting a good spark or see that my problem lies with fuel. I may also try to throw on the stock injectors. Also before anything ill calibrate the tps.

thanks

 

I honestly dont think putting stock injectors in will help if you scale the cranking trim down. Also have you checked if the plugs are wet. Or you could pull the plug and coil out of the cylinder to watch for fuel to spray out. All kindz of ways to rig something. Pull the coil out with the spark plug attached. And your phones camera recording for spark.

also can you take a zoomed in pic of the ECUs board. Front and back. So we can see if something looks burned or broken solder

 

Ok so i first checked the calibration at the tps. Looks like i have a bad tps sensor. The highest reading i can get is 3.4V. I can only adjust it to go lower from there. So ill have to get a new one. I left it at the highest voltage for now. Then i went to the fuel trims on hondata. I set cranking trim to 50% . And it started! Very rough for the seconds i left it on. But now i know its partially for the bad tps, and just need a proper basemap obviously.



this means i can start finishing everything up. Ill contact my tuner to send me a proper basemap. To turn start it up again and give it a proper first start.

 

For the tps, you can set it up thru hondata. Ill try and take a pic of what im talking about.

glad we got it running now. Its likely rough because of fouled plugs, crazy AFRs, aswell as other parameters that will need adjusted. And the vacuum lines not being hooked up. Getting it running was the easy part. All the small parameter adjustments is the nasty part.

ill try and get a couple pics up for you of how some of my parameters are.

you were on itr cams rite

 

your setup mite not like my post start specs too much. I had to alter this after putting my n1 cams in

 

yea im running itr cams. I figured this is only bound to get harder if it took me this long just to get it started. With your help of course. Im gonna adjust to those settings you gave me. Then put away all this wiring and finish up in the engine bay

 

Kool man. When you finally start setting up the ems, dont forget to sync hondata base timing with the dizzy and mechanical timing.

 

Finally finished up doing the wiring under the dash. Finished wiring my guages as well. Turbosmart boost guage, PLX wideband, and Jegs brand Oil pressure guage. I didnt decide on getting an ethanol content guage till after all the wiring was started for the other gauges, so I had to place it behind the steering wheel. I should swap the wideband and ethanol guage but ill leave that for another day.




tomorrow i should receive my slim fan, so ill throw that on. And start working on the turbo piping and mounting the intercooler.

 

So I finally got the slim pusher SPAL fan. It was a perfect fit. A cm more and I would've had to start cutting.






Next I get working on the vacuum lines and intercooler and piping. Im gonna paint intercooler and piping flat black. Good thing is I spoke to my tuner @ Xenocron. Set up a date in April for a dyno tune. In the meantime, Im gonna finish all the small details and make sure the car is problem free before the tune.

 

maybe i wont paint any of it....google just told me its not the greatest long term idea....

 

Google don't know everything, son... I do it all the time. I just don't use rattle can bullshit.. I either anodize or use a cerakote. It's all in the cleaning and prep. One for my Focus ST daily driver, the other for my TA Integra

 

No intention to thread jack, but a good painting/anodizing does wonders for the look and even longevity.
My little Ford's Intercooler.. Quirky little bastard, but fun, nonetheless. I won't keep it forever (you really can't) as I'm getting a TRD Toyota Tacoma (SC) as my next road runner.

My point is, it's all in the type of intercooler you have, the prep you give it (clean with good chemicals or hot chemical bath, no pre-applied epoxy coatings like on the Vibrant or Mishimoto cores)
and don't consider a rattle can.

 

All info is always appreciated here. Im glad you told me thjs because i basically rattle can everything in this build so far. Mostly because time and cost. But as you can see, already i have things i have to have repainted (valve cover). But i will consider and look into anodizing my intercooler. I have a precision intercooler. I dont believe its coated with anything from its current appearance. What ill do is clean it up for now and look into anodizing. Maybe do a practice run on another piece of aluminum. Those intercoolers look amazing.

ST is nice but Taco is life. Have a 17' TRD Offroad DC....great truck, traded my 15 WRX for it.

 

My precision intercooler




The Taco, I have a lift that I bought a year ago but never installed.

 

I need a Tacoma in my life

 

Exactly. It's the only version that still comes in a manual transmission. That's a deal breaker for me.

 

I opted to for the Auto because wife....she actually drives it more than I do

tonight I started mocking up the intercooler and piping to start making cutouts on the bumper support. The intercooler is big AF. I started cutting the bumper support, but it's too loud, didn't wanna bother the neighbors. So I decided to straighten all the fins on the intercooler. Lol what a tedious but important thing to not oversee. Also looked at the adjustments I needed, to make the loop from the turbo to the intercooler.

 

I got lucky. My wife prefers manual transmissions, and by far drives them better than autos. She currently drives a '17 SI. I literally get car sick when she uses a rental on trips. :tongue:

But she likes the Focus on the off-days.

Glad you straightened those fins. Now you need a good chemical bath and clean the hell out of it. Then, you'll be ready for anodizing or coating. It will look a little more dull than what I have shown, if you use a color other than black, but otherwise, you won't know the difference once it's done. It may cost a bit more than what you're used to paying (considering all the BS of possibly shipping). But you'll never see it chip off, or have to spray constantly.

I'm sorry, but there's nothing worse than an intercooler with rattle can on it over a few months. Looks like ***...

 

If I could find a woman who drives stick and is a bit of a gym rat...

Why isn't it possible to turbocharge your relationship goals ;_;


On topic - Anodizing is the way to go for getting color onto an intercooler, if it's available as an option. Cerokate can also work well on intercoolers and radiators, the application just needs to be done very well/professionally. I can confirm that loosely spray painted intercoolers look terrible, I forget which one of my friends had a rattlecan-blue intercooler, but it looked horrific.

 

Has anyone measured the reduction of heat dispersal of a painted intercooler vs bare/anodized? I bet it would be a measurable percentage.

 

Painted or anodized, no. There is no difference in exchange efficiency. But the anodizing protects the metal from corrosion and grime from the elements. The application is a lot like tattooing, only at the molecular level. Cerakoted, yes some measurements have been made in.core heat exchange efficiency. It's not a lot (about 5% improvement on average.) But depending upon the application, 5% could be be enough to warrant doing it.

Really it is more durability and a cleaner look

 

i work in the plant that makes this truck and the Tundra! Thanks!

 

we did away with the 5 speed manual and only do the 6 speed and auto (of course).

 

Nice! TheShodan now has a hookup to get that Tech package w/JBL pre-installed without the dealer ever knowing lol

 

I meant more along the lines of paint reducing the efficiency due to the thickness of the paint coating the fins. Not to derail the thread, but you're saying there's no efficiency loss from painting?