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I love that HKS.. I truly do. (I still have my original HKS from 1999 on my mantle. ) But it will not hold even 500whp. Only the Race version of that BOV can do that. Sell and get a proper Turbosmart , TiAL, or other company.
I love that HKS.. I truly do. (I still have my original HKS from 1999 on my mantle. ) But it will not hold even 500whp. Only the Race version of that BOV can do that. Sell and get a proper Turbosmart , TiAL, or other company.
Dont tell me that OMG lol . Thats precisely what I dont wanna hear any reason as to why it has issues holding more power ?
Dont tell me that OMG lol . Thats precisely what I dont wanna hear any reason as to why it has issues holding more power ?
Simple. It's the valve size, and lower tension spring. Racing valve is 51mm, while standard is about 30mm. the 3 chambered system is great, and I'd use one again without hesitation, but only on the larger valve. With the amount of lbs/min airflow that you're demanding the turbocharger to handle, the standard HKS SQV will start to leak from over pressurization. It wasn't designed for that much airflow being produced by the power goal you're setting. You need something much stronger.
The 3 chambered design is great. I still use that on my other project car.
What I like about them is their range of vacuum that the Racing version has. Unlike the TiAL, in which you have to worry constantly about which spring to use for the proper vacuum of the engine, the HKS Racing version has such a wide range that there's no need to change any springs out for vacuum. (The same goes for Turbosmart). So, if you've already had your Intercooler Piping made for this model of BOV, fear not, as the HKS Racing BOV uses the same flange and hardware, just larger.
I think it'd be different from all of the other TiAL /Syncronic / Turbosmart guys around.. At under $300, it's not a bad move.
But yes, this is a situation in which you will experience compressor surge and reversion by trying to do the "well, let's check it out and see, anyway"- type of thinking. Change that BOV to something else than what you have. I'm tellin' ya...
So, that means that whatever turbocharger you're getting, it must use a Turbine housing that uses a TiAL V-band clamp. Well, that narrows it down quite a bit for the number of quality companies for you to choose from. Now the question is, which one? You gonna follow the crowd on the Precision bandwagon and hope for the best, or go to the tried and true companies like Garrett, Borg-Warner, and their affiliates and supporters?
And since you ball'd out and got the Sheepey manifold, Intercooler (which uses a CSF Core) with the TiAL V-band, you can't cry broke on the turbocharger now. Because all that bling won't do any good, if you get a turbocharger on a budget that "doesn't break the bank, but it'll do"..
So, that means that whatever turbocharger you're getting, it must use a Turbine housing that uses a TiAL V-band clamp. Well, that narrows it down quite a bit for the number of quality companies for you to choose from. Now the question is, which one? You gonna follow the crowd on the Precision bandwagon and hope for the best, or go to the tried and true companies like Garrett, Borg-Warner, and their affiliates and supporters?
And since you ball'd out and got the Sheepey manifold, Intercooler (which uses a CSF Core) with the TiAL V-band, you can't cry broke on the turbocharger now. Because all that bling won't do any good, if you get a turbocharger on a budget that "doesn't break the bank, but it'll do"..
Decisions, decisions.
Ok so i was looking into the HKS race version of the BOV and i'll be getting it . Now I already have the turbo , i'm trying to upload the pics but as per usual its taking forever . I have the GTW3884r with the vband back housing .82 a/r so i'm sure this will work well . I originally wanted to go with a 6466 and then after making big power step down to a 6062 but since i went with the tial flange on the turbo mani i'll have to stay Garrett for now. Still doing more research on the BOV and thanks again for the input . See how much you have already helped ....
I have the Comp Twin and it is holding up with 1100+ WHP so it should do well.
Wow!!!!!!!!!!!!!
This what i like to hear , this will be my first twin disk i have ever ran on any of my builds, id lie if I said i'm not anxious to say the least. I have always been an ACT guy , those clutches hold any amount of power/trq thrown at them.
Ok so i was looking into the HKS race version of the BOV and i'll be getting it . Now I already have the turbo , i'm trying to upload the pics but as per usual its taking forever . I have the GTW3884r with the vband back housing .82 a/r so i'm sure this will work well . I originally wanted to go with a 6466 and then after making big power step down to a 6062 but since i went with the tial flange on the turbo mani i'll have to stay Garrett for now. Still doing more research on the BOV and thanks again for the input . See how much you have already helped ....
Staying Garrett is the good thing. The possibly not-so-good-thing is that this turbo will have difficulty making 800whp in under 32psi. But, it might do it. Glad you at least got the Ball-bearing version.
Even if you "step down", stay Garrett.
You're not using just one 44mm MV-R gate for all this are you? with a 90mm TB? This is not going to be part of a street car, right? If so, you're looking at a few issues.
1) Boost creep / spikes from one 44mm MV-R wastegate - And I mean serious boost control issues. Even a 4-port solenoid system is going to have difficulty controlling lower boost with 75lbs/min turbo at such low pressure to make 400-450whp on a (top mount manifold, no less) with a single wastegate on there. You need a second wastegate on there, pronto, or switch to a 60mm. Low boost/power with a big turbo, needs a very large wastegate, or even two with that kind of exhaust manifold. This really will be prevalent if your tuner likes to be conservative on ignition timing for your 93octane tune. So, just be aware it's going to happen.
2) 90mm TB for a street car - Now, I know I've dealt with a few of these, and I'm not the master, but for every setup that I've worked with that used a 90mm TB on a "street / strip" car that was using this style of "hot parts", they always have horrible idle control issues and the car IACV is always to blame for it (when being used). Just be aware that staying even 74mm will net a better result with much more consistency than that 90mm. Remember, you're not NA, you're FORCE INDUCTION, so the air is being forced into the combustion chamber anyway.
3)CSS CNC WERX for 800whp+?. Not that it can't happen, or hasn't happened for that power level, just horribly risky, when with all that money you spent so far, a good sleeved block goes a LONG WAY for longevity. I'm not doubting the process for up to say 650whp, but for this? I wish you the best of luck for a safe journey
Staying Garrett is the good thing. The possibly not-so-good-thing is that this turbo will have difficulty making 800whp in under 32psi. But, it might do it. Glad you at least got the Ball-bearing version.
Even if you "step down", stay Garrett.
You're not using just one 44mm MV-R gate for all this are you? with a 90mm TB? This is not going to be part of a street car, right? If so, you're looking at a few issues.
1) Boost creep / spikes from one 44mm MV-R wastegate - And I mean serious boost control issues. Even a 4-port solenoid system is going to have difficulty controlling lower boost with 75lbs/min turbo at such low pressure to make 400-450whp on a (top mount manifold, no less) with a single wastegate on there. You need a second wastegate on there, pronto, or switch to a 60mm. Low boost/power with a big turbo, needs a very large wastegate, or even two with that kind of exhaust manifold. This really will be prevalent if your tuner likes to be conservative on ignition timing for your 93octane tune. So, just be aware it's going to happen.
2) 90mm TB for a street car - Now, I know I've dealt with a few of these, and I'm not the master, but for every setup that I've worked with that used a 90mm TB on a "street / strip" car that was using this style of "hot parts", they always have horrible idle control issues and the car IACV is always to blame for it (when being used). Just be aware that staying even 74mm will net a better result with much more consistency than that 90mm. Remember, you're not NA, you're FORCE INDUCTION, so the air is being forced into the combustion chamber anyway.
3)CSS CNC WERX for 800whp+?. Not that it can't happen, or hasn't happened for that power level, just horribly risky, when with all that money you spent so far, a good sleeved block goes a LONG WAY for longevity. I'm not doubting the process for up to say 650whp, but for this? I wish you the best of luck for a safe journey
That's directly from the CSS guys . Again I'm just looking for 800+ on about 32-35 Psi (for the Dyno) i want on the street 400-450 on half the boost .
They come in all 3 flavors. 62mm, 64mm, and 67mm all with the same 84mm Exducer and same turbine wheel size. It says T4 turbine on it, so just make sure you have the right one...
I have had that catalog in my archives since last November. Pg.44.
Never say I don't know what I'm talkin' about when it comes to Garrett turbochargers
As for the CSS CNC Werx claims... I can only go by what I know works and not by the owner's consistent plugin-style testimony that he's used for the last 5 years..
They come in all 3 flavors. 62mm, 64mm, and 67mm all with the same 84mm Exducer and same turbine wheel size. It says T4 turbine on it, so just make sure you have the right one...
I have had that catalog in my archives since last November. Pg.44.
Never say I don't know what I'm talkin' about when it comes to Garrett turbochargers
As for the CSS CNC Werx claims... I can only go by what I know works and not by the owner's consistent plugin-style testimony that he's used for the last 5 years..
lol SAVAGE !!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Yes i'll take their word for now again at this point I cant make any changes , so i'll just have to wait for tune and see what happens .
The turbo is now fitted with the tial vband inlet and outlet .82 a/r back housing , it was originally bought for my subie thats why in pic it shows the tr open scroll .81 a/r .
Also yes i am running a single gate 44mm i am aware of boost creep but i just have see what it do bro lol.
Simple. It's the valve size, and lower tension spring. Racing valve is 51mm, while standard is about 30mm. the 3 chambered system is great, and I'd use one again without hesitation, but only on the larger valve. With the amount of lbs/min airflow that you're demanding the turbocharger to handle, the standard HKS SQV will start to leak from over pressurization. It wasn't designed for that much airflow being produced by the power goal you're setting. You need something much stronger.
The 3 chambered design is great. I still use that on my other project car.
What I like about them is their range of vacuum that the Racing version has. Unlike the TiAL, in which you have to worry constantly about which spring to use for the proper vacuum of the engine, the HKS Racing version has such a wide range that there's no need to change any springs out for vacuum. (The same goes for Turbosmart). So, if you've already had your Intercooler Piping made for this model of BOV, fear not, as the HKS Racing BOV uses the same flange and hardware, just larger.
I think it'd be different from all of the other TiAL /Syncronic / Turbosmart guys around.. At under $300, it's not a bad move.
But yes, this is a situation in which you will experience compressor surge and reversion by trying to do the "well, let's check it out and see, anyway"- type of thinking. Change that BOV to something else than what you have. I'm tellin' ya...
So i was able to get the BOV swapped out and paid the difference to HKS distributor .
Car is still at fab shop , taking a little longer than expected but good news , my fab guy said we can step up to a bigger flange and still fit the turbo mani along with waste gate in .
He said the max we can go is 50mm so that should help instead of the current 45mm flange and 44mm waste gate .
So i was able to get the BOV swapped out and paid the difference to HKS distributor .
Car is still at fab shop , taking a little longer than expected but good news , my fab guy said we can step up to a bigger flange and still fit the turbo mani along with waste gate in .
He said the max we can go is 50mm so that should help instead of the current 45mm flange and 44mm waste gate .
So car is finally done with fab work (catch can being made this weekend)
i have had a lot of hiccups with the build and I also took a vacation but now I’m back on it and car should be up and running by end of month.
FOLLOW MY BUILD ON INSTAGRAM @B00STED_DC2
Last edited by s0_wavyyy; 08-03-2018 at 10:22 AM.
Reason: Forgot to add all pics
So as recommended I changed the regular HKS and bought the Racing version & also instead of using the 44mm wastegate I upgraded to the 60mm wastegate .
FOLLOW MY BUILD ON INSTAGRAM @B00STED_DC2
02-20-2018, 12:56 PM
Re: GSR Build for 800whp+
) But it will not hold even 500whp. Only the Race version of that BOV can do that. Sell and get a proper Turbosmart , TiAL, or other company.
