Ignition timing question
Ok the single white line lined up with the timing belt cover is the TDC mark. The three marks on the left are for when you’re flashing the light gun. Red is the target. When I hit red it’s hard to get it on the mark precisely and it runs somewhat rough. But when I turn the distributor to where the gun is flashing on the single TDC mark, it runs the smoothest. Could my timing belt be off a tooth? Or am I wrong else where...this is in a B18A1 Swap running GSR oil pump.
Ok the single white line lined up with the timing belt cover is the TDC mark. The three marks on the left are for when you’re flashing the light gun. Red is the target. When I hit red it’s hard to get it on the mark precisely and it runs somewhat rough. But when I turn the distributor to where the gun is flashing on the single TDC mark, it runs the smoothest. Could my timing belt be off a tooth? Or am I wrong else where...this is in a B18A1 Swap running GSR oil pump.
Does your timing light have an advance adjustment, or is it a regular timing light? The distributor is geared off the cam, so that is a possibility. Easy enough to check.
The crank pulley is attached to the crank directly, which determines true TDC of the piston, so the correct spot to time will definitely be the red mark. Also make sure you jumper the service connector, so it doesn't try to counter your timing adjustments on the fly.
The crank pulley is attached to the crank directly, which determines true TDC of the piston, so the correct spot to time will definitely be the red mark. Also make sure you jumper the service connector, so it doesn't try to counter your timing adjustments on the fly.
Does your timing light have an advance adjustment, or is it a regular timing light? The distributor is geared off the cam, so that is a possibility. Easy enough to check.
The crank pulley is attached to the crank directly, which determines true TDC of the piston, so the correct spot to time will definitely be the red mark. Also make sure you jumper the service connector, so it doesn't try to counter your timing adjustments on the fly.
The crank pulley is attached to the crank directly, which determines true TDC of the piston, so the correct spot to time will definitely be the red mark. Also make sure you jumper the service connector, so it doesn't try to counter your timing adjustments on the fly.
This is what I’m working with.
Trending Topics
jumped one notch on the intake cam when the coil failed at about 15mph.
then ran ok when cold then kinda crappy and hot after warm up. it was during winter so didnt over heat.
mpg turned ugly and would not dial in with timing light. drove it for at least 2 months
before i figured it out. now drives like a dream at 361k after i did bushing/motor mount/suspension/ignition refresh.
then ran ok when cold then kinda crappy and hot after warm up. it was during winter so didnt over heat.
mpg turned ugly and would not dial in with timing light. drove it for at least 2 months
before i figured it out. now drives like a dream at 361k after i did bushing/motor mount/suspension/ignition refresh.
jumped one notch on the intake cam when the coil failed at about 15mph.
then ran ok when cold then kinda crappy and hot after warm up. it was during winter so didnt over heat.
mpg turned ugly and would not dial in with timing light. drove it for at least 2 months
before i figured it out. now drives like a dream at 361k after i did bushing/motor mount/suspension/ignition refresh.
then ran ok when cold then kinda crappy and hot after warm up. it was during winter so didnt over heat.
mpg turned ugly and would not dial in with timing light. drove it for at least 2 months
before i figured it out. now drives like a dream at 361k after i did bushing/motor mount/suspension/ignition refresh.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
1990civicdx
Honda CRX / EF Civic (1988 - 1991)
3
Jul 17, 2018 06:13 PM






