Yeah, I'm still around. I don't post as much as I used to, but I still lurk around and post every now and then. And amazingly, yeah, I still have my hatchback - I'm the original owner. It hasn't been my daily-driver since 2001 and turned into a dedicated road race car in 2008.

For the last 4 or 5 years, I've had a turbo b16a in my hatch. It was a stock jdm b16a I bought used from a Canadian importer - I pulled it apart when I got it and found everything in good shape and slapped it back together and its been working fine ever since. It had a Garrett t3/Super60 which made ~240whp@12psi. Two years ago while racing at Big Willow at Willow Springs I blew an axle so the car was put back in its trailer and towed home. We moved out of state a few months later and my car got put on the back burner. Fast forward to about May 2017 months and I really wanted to get back into road racing so I pulled my Honda out of its trailer and had a look. Not only was the axle bad, but most of the suspension was worn out. I had a pretty fast closet (new engine, turbo, etc) all waiting and a bunch of other parts I'd collected but never actually installed so I figured now was a good time to get to work and do a rebuild.

Here is what I had to work with, my old b16a turbo setup


Normally my M3 lives in the workshop with the Civic since I don't drive it much, but we'll move that over to the main garage for a while


I bought this "slightly used" b18c5 shortblock from a friend. RS sleeved, Crower I-beam rods, Arias pistons, ITR oil pump. It made like 743whp.


I pulled the motor apart and found the bearings didn't look very good


So I ordered all new Honda bearings, rings, headgasket, etc

Engine build got put on hold while I did a bunch of work on my e46M3


I haven't replaced the studs - ever - figured it was time. ARP wheel studs


Finally got the new engine together. I did all the work myself - bearing sizing etc etc. My 10 year old daughter helped install the head and did all the valve train install. woot!


Engine going in


Finally getting back together


Yes, getting that big radiator to fit was a nightmare. It's a 3-row Integra


Getting dyno tuned at SpeedFactory racing




The dyno session went well, although I was a bit nervous since the engine only had about 10 minutes of run-time on it. Since this is a road race car, having good response is more important than all out power. At 6psi it made 272whp and at 17psi falling down to 12psi at redline it made 373whp. We couldn't get the IWG in the EFR7064 hold boost so the dyno looks weird - it's almost flat on the topend. The tune is very conservative since I road race this car. No blow-by, no smoke, the car did exactly what it was supposed to do.



The EFR7064 is a monster though, it spools SO fast. It starts making boost at 1500rpms (2psi@1500rpms) and throttle response is almost instant. My tuner said if it held boost we'd have been around 450whp@17psi which is what I was hoping for.

RS sleeved b18c5
b18c5 crank
Arias 85mm 9.7:1 pistons
OEM Honda bearings
b16a jdm head
Cometic 0.03" MLS head-gasket w/ ARP head-studs
JUN dual-valve springs and Ti retainers
CTR cams w/ spoon cam gears
Skunk2 ultra street intake manifold & Skunk 74mm throttle body
Peak Boost ramhorn manifold (OG!)
Go-autoworks piping/FMIC
Borg Warner EFR 7063 .83ar T3 turbo IWG
Neptune RTP with COP conversion
1000cc gram injectors
Exedy twindisk
b16a transmission with an I-forget-what-brand clutch-type LSD

Still more to work to do... I have to move the oil cooler somewhere - being zip-tied to the intercooler isn't exactly what I had in mind. I'd also like to fix it so it will hold boost till red-line and need to get the boost-by-gear dialed in. I'm going to be running the car at a few time attack events this year - and at as many track days in the PNW as possible. So if you see me hit me up and say hi.

 

Nice.

you could potentially try an upgraded IWG from Tial or Turbosmart

 

Pictures don't seem to be working right now.

 

Welcome back

damn 85mm. No sealing issues?

if and when you did do BBG, you could try to up the duty cycle on the table to get rid if some of the taper also.

 

Perfect sized turbo for this build. I'm sure the tapering issues aren't too bad, with a little tweaking it will work out. Making Time Attack Great Again..

 

freshened up nicely. but I have a question. where is the P/S pump? I see the reservoir, but I don't see the pump in the "before" or the "after" pics. I did notice the reservoir changed sides.....

wait, scratch that... I DO see the p/s pump in the very first pic. But where did it go after the rebuild?

 

I bought a Turbosmart dual-port - should get here next week. I'll also order up a new 4-port Mac and give that a go!

You've had that problem before, works for everybody else...

Thanks. The duty cycle is already at 100% using the stock EFR boost solenoid. And nope, so far no sealing issues.

I used to use the stock Honda PS pump but it was a really tight fit. This time around I wanted to use a super-damper and put in a better air-filter on that side of the motor so I did a Toyota MR2 electric power steering pump conversion. You can't really see the pump it in the pictures, it's hidden over where the stock battery generally is just under and in front of my catch-can. Now I can turn on and off the PS by a switch - it's super slick.

 

Seems so. They displayed from my work PC.

Edit: It was my Ghostery plugin.

 

That's actually not a bad idea to look into. What year MR2? Turbo or NA?

 

I've seen people use anything from a 91-95 pump to an 2000->2005 off an MR2 Spyder.

Electric Hydraulic Steering Pump MR2-TOYOTA 2001 - K20A.org .:. The K Series Source . Honda / Acura K20a k24a Engine Forum

Karcepts, Inc. - Karcepts K-Swap EHPS Pump Mounting Bracket & Hardware Kit

 

I'm using a 91-95 MR2 SW20 pump with a Karcepts mounting bracket/hose. I believe the pump part number is 80960-17011 and its the same pump on both the base/turbo models. I bought mine off eBay for $100 but you can buy them new online for just under $400 if you want to go that route.

The links that ChanceEG pasted above is what I followed.

The newer ones can accept a speed pulse input - so you can vary the pump speed based on the VSS sensor or a dial if you'd like. I'm not sure if the 91-95 pump can do the same - mine is just wired to either on or off and feels similar to the stock honda PS pump.

 

I'm with Shodan on this one... I'm just about finished with my build and now I think I wanna put some P/S on her for those times at the track. It's a bit of a bitch to turn into the staging lanes with manual steering while on almost flat 24.5" slicks. And your idea of putting it on a switch is pretty nice, too.

 

I bought a Turbosmart IWG75 dual-port actuator hoping that it would fix my boost issues. Unfortunately, the same problem. It hits 12-14psi (wastegate spring) then falls to 12psi by redline. Interestingly enough it seems like the EFR boost solenoid is doing almost nothing since its a 14psi spring in the actuartor. I ran out of time over the weekend to tinker with it. I'll double check that it is working normally and if that doesn't do it the instructions give an alternate vacuum-line configuration that is for "high exhaust pressure" which probably has my engine written all over it. I have a Mac 3-port I can try too, but I doubt its any better than the stock Borg EFR 3-port solenoid - anybody know?

Swapping the actuators was a massive pain in the butt. I have to remove the front lower engine mount and even then it was a super tight squeeze. Those top-mount turbo manifolds are looking better and better all the time.



It sure does look prettier


What a pain

 

Its probably even worse than it looks.Can you bent the bracket to make its face parallel to the actuator's bottom and use hollow bolts/hollow-threaded as extension with 2 nuts on the bracket to make it stabilise? Or open the actuator and insert longer bolts inside.




Or slash cut - rotate and slice weld