Bense give DDtech a ring.... I like what he is doing with the H cams.... He has a few different options on custom cams he is making... he has one for this motor that I have seen on a semi build that keep the torque up... unlike others S2 which losses torque and makes peak power... DDtech seems to have a good idea on how to keep the low end and mid range power....

I swapped cams to EuroR/TypeS/F20BMT on one of the cookie cutter dynos I did not see huge gains... was minimal... however should show gains under boosted apps more. Current h23v bt build made 501 whp and 385 trq at 17 psi still uses Euro R mani and Euro R cams....

 

I just completed my swap last week. h23vtec BLUETOP in my 99 accord EX 4dr. I'm having an issue with the idle i think the IACV is bad but i believe the one from my f23 is the same so I'm going to swap it since i know that one works fine.

 

Good question the 3 wire IACV is found in the 98-02 Accords... H23V BT part number is same as 98-02 Accord F23 36460-PAA-L21 .... Also same as Euro R H22 Accord Motor

 

Thanks for that. I ended up not swapping the IACV out. After the second day of driving the idle finally fixed itself. The only issue I have now is this random misfire. It's causing like 4-6 codes on the computer. Misfire in cyl1, misfire in cyl2, misfire in cyl3, misfire in cyl4, random misfire and another misfire related code I can't remember. I'm using the distributor that came with the h23vtec motor but I had to run two wires to keep the ecu happy has this motor does not have a crank signal and the f23 did. I think ignition timing might be the cause of my misfire.

 

So i set my distributor to the 12% of timing that the ecu is happy with and the car actually runs alot better. The misfires arent as often as they used to and the car no longer bogs when it misfires it just hiccups a bit. I installed a wideband and realized that the car is running really rich. I used a scanner and went into the fuel trim readings of the ecu and saw that the car was pulling 17-19% fuel (and still running rich). Im aware that the factory h23vtec injectors are 40-50cc larger than that of the f23 but would this cause it to run so rich? I pulled the injectors out of my f23 but they physically dont fit. The h23 injectors are narrow pencil type and the stock f23s injectors are wider at the body and at the spray tip.

The car is definitely easier to drive now that i fixed my ignition timing and i replaced one of my dead oxygen sensors but im still getting that misfire on occasion causing me to get a check engine light. My goal right now is to just get the car to pass inspection here in the state of NY (no check engine light, all I/M monitors ready (im allowed 2 incomplete monitors).

I purchased hondata and had it installed into a p28 for actual driving and tuning but i need the car to run decent enough on the stock ecu for it to pass inspection (obd1 ecu doesnt have obd2 protocols needed by the computer that gets plugged into the vehicle for inspection purposes). Can anyone help?

 

Hello All
I have a beginners question will I be able to use my h23 non vtec tranny on the h23 vtec motor.? I'm doing a swap out of my old b23 non vtec motor and would need to know what to do? Are there any disadvantages?

 

I keep hearing replace flywheel and clutch but this will be my daily driver and plan to hook it up. POSSIBLY IN FUTURE PUT TURBOS AND STUFF

 

Yes, you will be able to use it. It will bolt right on. The H23A1 trans has nice gear ratios for the H23 blue top, just about perfect for the engine. Not too short, not too long.
You should replace the clutch at least, if it has a lot of miles on it. If it has been replaced recently, you can reuse the whole clutch/flywheel assembly. The flywheel should be at least resurfaced if you replace the clutch. It may be cheaper to just replace the flywheel depending on the machine shops in your area. Honestly I would recommend looking into a lightweight flywheel as these engines really benefit from them. Additionally, any maintenance items should be done to the engine as well while it's out. Timing belt, water pump, plugs/wires, etc should all be replaced before installing the new engine. Short version on forced induction with these stock engines: generally ill-advisable.

Take note that next time you don't have to double post. You can simply edit your initial post to add any information you feel that you left out. Good luck.

 

The h23a is very strong mine is completely stock very underestimated mine dynod at 204whp 167lbs tqe no bolt- ons ...eg h2b gsr trans

 

Thanx Guys

should a get a wire harness from rywire. And how about engine mounts? Will they bolt right in or should I get Hasport ones?

 

you should always get Hasport

 

Why not go with ESP the thread starter of this topic?

 

So does the h23a blue top take h22 timing belt and water pump and what about the thermostat

 

Anyone I need help with this I'm trying to get what I need so I can replace it all this week

 

In the first post is a graphic compiled by ESP. H22A4 looks like the right belt.

 

Sweet, I just picked up an jdm h23 bluetop for 50 bucks. Can't wait to start messing with it!

 

Thought I would post up guys did my first OBD2 H23V Blue Top swap... most know I always used obd1 and obd0 cars.... Was 97 Prelude my buddies car. Threw in the motor. Need Rywire Dizzy Adapter OBD2 to 8 Pin with crank angle sensor pigtail in order to use the OEM Blue Top internal coil dizzy. Simply plug the crank angle sensor pigtail to the harness side. The kit comes with Small Red Jumper wire that you just connect the 2 larger coil wires on harness. I used Speedfactory OBD2A to OBD1 jumper harness. All 97-01 Prelude are OBD2A. I used the Rising Sun Motors Pancho on FB obd1 to h23v blue top chipped ecu. Roughly $150 Shipped US. Fired right up and worked out great and smooth We use the stock Prelude H22 Intake Manifold. ONLY problem was make sure to use Thermal Intake Manifold Gasket! Or may get a vacuum leak.

 

Hey what oil pan gasket are you guys using? I'm not sure if I should be using the halfmoon w/hondabond, full rubber gasket or just hondabond. I'm using a h2b qsd oil pan not sure if this will affect anything.

 

you happen to have a link for those parts??

 

you happen to have a link for those parts??

 

I just use hondabond alone. Make sure to tighten the oil pan as evenly as possible so you dont warp it and end up with leaks

 

Honda bond is messy...only for Aluminum pans... and nightmare to clean off. To do it correctly use OEM rubber gasket... It is what steel pans use. I simply dab tiny amount of honda bond every 5" or so and on corners OF THE MOTOR. This allows you to drop the pan and gasket will stay onto the motor and can reuse.

 

I just disassembled my previous h23a and I guess these are the oiling holes that everyone talks about they're in the Piston i guess...couldn't find oiling holes through the rod...

 

Would that distributor harness also work if I'm putting a H23V Blue Top into a 96 Accord EX?

 

There's some here: Distributor Adapters

I've bought one of these before. But most of the time whenever I get one of these engines, I take the otherwise useless RHD engine harness, and clip some of the plugs. I usually just wind up making my own conversion harness. I got a box or two of old harnesses, Cheaper, quicker, and more versatile for me to make my own than get one of those RYWire adapters.

Hadn't browsed the rywire site since 2014. Hard to believe anyone would spend $1200 for a harness. But I'm sure they're listed on his site for a reason. More power to him.