nus_dogg

Is this why the Type S cams eats up the normal H22 rocker pads? It's been a min, just trying to refresh my memories.

Aradin

No problem. I would be willing to bet that you would see more torque under the curve and improved peak horsepower without IABs on the H23A versus your previous setup. The blue top's 95mm stroke makes an exceptional amount of low end/midrange torque.

That's a good question. I think that's the general consensus but it makes me wonder, what about the F20B? The PCB heads they come with seem to be based on the older P13 castings. As we know, the manual versions come with Type-S cams yet they didn't suffer from that issue.

h1tman

In H23 VTEC oil squirters are not necessary. There are grooves in bigger rod end that work like oil squirters and spray oil on the bottom of the pistons.
I wanted to install oil squirters in my H23A but it was impossible to bend them that they clear the pistons and crank.

ESP.net

PCB F20B has there own heads... Could be 60 degrees as well.... I think the rocker wear was more of an issue with those trying to use stock P13 valve springs with TypeS/EuroR cams... Valves not being percisely in sync needing a stiffer spring with higher lift cam. But yes I think it was more common on the OBD1 motors with non behive LMAs

B18C5-EH2

Tried looking through some pages of this thread, but figured someone could tell me more quickly. Are the H23A blue tops using the FRM lined cylinder walls like the 00-spec H22A found in USDM Preludes? Google searches yielded different results.

snobordboy

Yes.

1funryd

Again....(sigh) All H motors are FRM sleeved.
Only F series motors have iron sleeves(minus the F20c - S2000 motor which does not apply here anyways)

Bense

What piston rings do these bad boys use?

H22A4?

TimiK

All 97- H's use the same piston rings. I think.

H22A4-H22A8 and Type S/R have the same piston ring part number

ESP.net

True should be no difference than H22 and ANY H23 on piston rings

^Sammy]!.

If someone wouldn't mind answering this question

H22 IACV will work on H23A Intake Manifold with Rosko IACV adapter?

ESP.net

It should that is what Rosko made the kit for Euro R 3 wire IACV to H22 IACV 2 wire... one bolt lines up other does not... thus need bracket.

Your better off getting the IACV relocation kit if firewall is close and or not a lot of room up front

^Sammy]!.

Thank you ESP.net

^Sammy]!.

Could someone with a EK H2B swap running stock IM measure the clearance between that and firewall please.

Thank you

snobordboy

Might have better luck in the hybrids/ engine swaps section with that question!

ESP.net

Those that are Straight H going to need one of these for the Lower K series intake manifolds. OEM Rear T Bracket wont work. It is also Slimmer, Stronger and Easier install. Installs only on driver side. This is not a for sale post do not ask how much.. PM with any question. Pictured is a K2H Excessive Intake manifold

snobordboy

John,
Can you post pictures of the clearance issues with the stock rear mount and the K manifolds, I assume RBC is the one you are referencing?

I don't see how this affects the H23 any more than any other Vtec H-series engine, but keep it tech enough and I will be ok with it.

ESP.net

Yes believe on the H swap with RBC it hits... With Excessive Mani as well which is even lower Hits a lot... Pictured is a K Excessive with 80mm TB... thought I would answer this instead of later... believe it hits the top of the OEM Rear T Bracket.

98__SH

Hey everyone. First post on honda-tech.

Forgive me for not rifling through this whole thread. I'll do a bit of that after I put this post up. I've got a 98/P13 H23A I'm building. It's for a daily'd 5th gen Prelude.

I'm looking to run Type S pistons for a slight bump in CR, so in terms of the bottom end, I can just get the rotating assembly balanced, use the Kaizenspeed Balance Shaft Delete, hone the bores, put in all new rings/bearings, and go.

I've been seeing some sources saying Type S pistons will come up out of the cylinder and kiss the valves on an H23A? And that the rods need to be modified to run Type S floating pins?

Any truth to this? Also, what about clearance issues any may have come across when putting a Stage 1 cam in there?

ESP.net

Ill see if I can answer this quickly... yes there has been some issues with say pro 1 and h23v bluetop... being close to the valve reliefs. A typical h22 piston will be in the hole 6k. The h23v BlueTop seems to be deck level 0 so already 6k in disadvantage... I would compensate with a 40k thick cometic headgasket. Yes this will lower your compression a tad... obd2 should all be floating pins. So should be a drop in with Type S.

98__SH

So on the stock piston height/valve relief shape, I'll need to go to a 0.040" head gasket? Or is this with a Type S piston?

If this is on the Type S I might be okay with that, since this would put me in the neighbourhood of 11.6:1 CR (without taking into account valve pockets) courtesy of the good ol' zealautowerks compression calculator.

Gah...the gears are turning in my brain to do an 89mm bore/Wiseco piston/Darton MID sleeve. Hmm...

ESP.net

I would give your self a 40k gap... no matter how you figure it... Do I guarantee anything no... math seems right....

H23V with Stock rods 141mm Type S pistons 40k headgasket math tells me 11.1-1
H23V with Eagle H23A1 rods 141.5mm Type S pistons 60k headgasket math tells me piston will be out of hole 20K. Add 40K ontop you get 60k thick headgasket brings it down to 11.0-1

98__SH

H23V rods are 141mm? Not 141.5mm?

I'd kinda be down with a setup like that, given ICB has Type S pistons for a good price, and I'd just hone/balance/rebuild and go. Just under 11:1 CR once the loss from valve pockets is accounted for.

But gahh...I can't get this 89mm piston thing out of my head.

ESP.net

H23V Blue Top rods are 141mm they are roughly 20k shorter than the H23A1 rods which are 141.5mm. This is what allows a h22 compression height piston to be used and be deck level rather then 20K out of of hole with an aftermarket or h23a1 oem rod. This is how I run my turbo builds H23A1 rods.... H22 pistons... pistons out of hole and a 60k thick cometic headgasket to compensate.

However back in the day few years ago Custom Pistons were a lot more spendy. Now most companies can make them for about $100 or so additional then a shelf piston but are about 4 weeks out. So at that point could use H23A1 aftermarket rods just move the H22 wrist pin further down 20-25k....

98__SH

Ahh makes sense! And yes, the pistons aren't too badly priced...only a bit more than the Traction Bar I'm thinkin about grabbing from you soon

I'm pretty much locked into the idea of 89 mm pistons/bores now, particularly because from what I can see, that's as big as is recommended to go, and I don't see myself having a billet crank made by Brian Crower. So the way I see it, a rebuilt, fully balanced bottom end, H23A crank, with deleted balance shafts and an 89 mm piston/Darton MID sleeve is pretty much as far as I'll ever go, with Stage 1 or Stage 2 cams and schtuff up top.

Do you have any opinions on who makes the best high comp piston for H's? Something just seems so plain about rocking the H23A pistons, or even Type S's