Refresh of 94 Civic Si w/ ABS after accident
He just asked me the same thing. Looks like your best bet is ebay from international sellers (search "worldwide" and "in descriptions" for 92 Civic Depo Black). Keep in mind if the listing says SR4, 4-door, or Sedan, it is only talking about the included corner lights (Sedan's are different). The headlights themselves are fully interchangeable for all 92-95 body styles.
He just asked me the same thing. Looks like your best bet is ebay from international sellers (search "worldwide" and "in descriptions" for 92 Civic Depo Black). Keep in mind if the listing says SR4, 4-door, or Sedan, it is only talking about the included corner lights (Sedan's are different). The headlights themselves are fully interchangeable for all 92-95 body styles.
Not really. In japan their lighting setup is different. Their version of parking lights are called city lights. When parking lights are turned on, a small alternate bulb in the headlight itself comes on instead of the corner lamp (their corner lamps are always off). This small bulb shuts off when the headlights come on. Their corner lamps only function as blinkers and not running lights like US setups. I think instead they use the small fender light below the mirror as a running light (not really sure).
I just spliced my city lights into the parking light wiring of my blinkers. They come on with parking lights, and stay on with headlights.
I just spliced my city lights into the parking light wiring of my blinkers. They come on with parking lights, and stay on with headlights.
Alright, I can feel my ADD kicking in here a little bit, so I think I need to make a list of things I want to do to make the Si a little more DD friendly:
Just noticed my list references squirters and tranny...
- New muffler - WS2 80mm Turbo Universal - looks like it will fit, but before I do that, I want to install #2 (below)
- Rear swaybar - EX or DC2 Integra - requires tapped LCAs, might as well do #3 while I am in there,
- LCA & RTA bushings
- Windsheild squirters - Fit - 76810-S10-A01,
- Tranny lube - GM Synchromesh FM MTF + Moly Slip
- IAB - get it working - why doesn't it work???
- Front brake pads - Nissin semi-metal
- Front end sheet metal + bumper skin
- Depo light housings
Just noticed my list references squirters and tranny...
Last edited by 94 Civic Si; Dec 1, 2023 at 09:36 AM.
Alright, I can feel my ADD kicking in here a little bit, so I think I need to make a list of things I want to do to make the Si a little more DD friendly:
- New muffler - WS2 80mm Turbo Universal - looks like it will fit, but before I do that, I want to install #2 (below)
- Rear swaybar - EX or DC2 Integra - requires tapped LCAs, might as well do #3 while I am in there,
- LCA & RTA bushings
- WIndsheild squirters - Fit - 76810-S10-A01,
- Tranny lube - GM Synchromesh FM MTF + Moly Slip
- IAB - get it working - why doesn't it work???
- Front brake pads - Nissin semi-metal
- Front end sheet metal + bumper skin
- Depo light housings
My instinct is that it may be vacuum related, only b/c the last time I messed with it I was not seeing 12v at the solenoid plug. So I investigated and found I had not pushed the new pin all the way into the plug at the ECU during my wiring work. My memory is that I fixed this and then saw 12v at the solenoid plug.
You should be concerned. LHD and RHD have a different beam pattern (not focal point). Both headlights have a lifted edge on the beam cutoff that illuminates the shoulder of the road. Running RHD headlights will be shining light into oncoming traffic.
LHD = ___/"" ___/""
RHD = ""\___ ""\___
BTW: I definitely recommend Depo's glass aftermarket headlights (euro black or euro chrome housing). I've had them since they came out in about 2004 (still look perfect after 13 years). They are LHD and have provisions to add city lights like the JDM headlights. The only thing you might want to replace is the rubber boot (uses JDM EG headlight boot).
LHD = ___/"" ___/""
RHD = ""\___ ""\___
BTW: I definitely recommend Depo's glass aftermarket headlights (euro black or euro chrome housing). I've had them since they came out in about 2004 (still look perfect after 13 years). They are LHD and have provisions to add city lights like the JDM headlights. The only thing you might want to replace is the rubber boot (uses JDM EG headlight boot).
It is also possible that I messed up something when I put the intake manifold back on with the head. That is definitely a bulky assembly!
Thinking about rear sway bar install before exhaust.
My rear LCAs are not tapped for stabilizer end links, so I need new rear LCAs.
The original plan was to pull the sway bar, brackets and LCAs from a junkyard 4-door EX. But I thought it would be wise to replace the bushings in the used LCAs while they were out b/c the rear of my hatch has some squeaks when the rear end be articulating.
When I look up the cost of new bushings, plus the cost of the junkyard LCA, I am within $9 of buying new 4-door EX LCAs from Honda ($82.94 vs $74.50).
Am I missing anything? It seems like to me like buying the new EX LCA is the way to go and get the new bushings and LCAs tapped for sway bar end links...
My rear LCAs are not tapped for stabilizer end links, so I need new rear LCAs.
The original plan was to pull the sway bar, brackets and LCAs from a junkyard 4-door EX. But I thought it would be wise to replace the bushings in the used LCAs while they were out b/c the rear of my hatch has some squeaks when the rear end be articulating.
When I look up the cost of new bushings, plus the cost of the junkyard LCA, I am within $9 of buying new 4-door EX LCAs from Honda ($82.94 vs $74.50).
Am I missing anything? It seems like to me like buying the new EX LCA is the way to go and get the new bushings and LCAs tapped for sway bar end links...
I see Honda does not sell replacement bushings for the rear trailing arm...
Hardrace does: Hardrace Rear Trailing Arm Bushings EF EK EG DC2 Del Sol - 6106 - BuyHardRace.com
As does TruHart: Rear Trailing Arm Bushing
Any onions, or are they both just as good?
Hardrace does: Hardrace Rear Trailing Arm Bushings EF EK EG DC2 Del Sol - 6106 - BuyHardRace.com
As does TruHart: Rear Trailing Arm Bushing
Any onions, or are they both just as good?
Last thought for the day before getting back to work...
I wonder if the squeak in the rear could be caused by the upper control arm bushings? Should I plan on replacing those while I am in there? Or at least the outers?
#18 in the parts diagram:
I wonder if the squeak in the rear could be caused by the upper control arm bushings? Should I plan on replacing those while I am in there? Or at least the outers?
#18 in the parts diagram:
Squeaking heard inside the car is most likely due to a bushing attached to the chassis. Upper arm, lower arm, compensator arm, trailing arm, and even shock absorber all have a bushing attached to the chassis. It is very difficult to isolate the exact source. Pretty much start replacing things.
Honda does sell a trailing arm bushing. In fact they actually sell 3 or 4 versions of it. It's just not shown on the parts diagram. Don't use anything else. The Spoon, Hardrace & Truehart versions are too restrictive and actually alter your suspension geometry. Their design eliminates the toe-in under braking which reduces your straight line braking stability. Good for race cars that want to step the tail of the car out under hard braking, but not street cars where you want stable emergency stops.
52385-SR3-003 is the most cost effective one. For more information, read this: https://honda-tech.com/forums/acura-...hings-3024027/
Honda does sell a trailing arm bushing. In fact they actually sell 3 or 4 versions of it. It's just not shown on the parts diagram. Don't use anything else. The Spoon, Hardrace & Truehart versions are too restrictive and actually alter your suspension geometry. Their design eliminates the toe-in under braking which reduces your straight line braking stability. Good for race cars that want to step the tail of the car out under hard braking, but not street cars where you want stable emergency stops.
52385-SR3-003 is the most cost effective one. For more information, read this: https://honda-tech.com/forums/acura-...hings-3024027/
Here is a good photo to illustrate the difference. OEM on the left and Spoon/Hardrace/Truhart on the right. The OEM bushing has a void both fore & aft of the chassis connection that allows the trailing arm to actually pull backwards significantly when the brakes are applied and the tire begins to slow the car. Not only does this extend the wheelbase of the vehicle, it forces the compensator arm at the front to pull the nose of the trailing arm inward. This increases the toe-in.
You can see the aftermarket option has no void and most likely has stiffer rubber as well.
You can see the aftermarket option has no void and most likely has stiffer rubber as well.
Thinking about rear sway bar install before exhaust.
My rear LCAs are not tapped for stabilizer end links, so I need new rear LCAs.
The original plan was to pull the sway bar, brackets and LCAs from a junkyard 4-door EX. But I thought it would be wise to replace the bushings in the used LCAs while they were out b/c the rear of my hatch has some squeaks when the rear end be articulating.
When I look up the cost of new bushings, plus the cost of the junkyard LCA, I am within $9 of buying new 4-door EX LCAs from Honda ($82.94 vs $74.50).
Am I missing anything? It seems like to me like buying the new EX LCA is the way to go and get the new bushings and LCAs tapped for sway bar end links...
My rear LCAs are not tapped for stabilizer end links, so I need new rear LCAs.
The original plan was to pull the sway bar, brackets and LCAs from a junkyard 4-door EX. But I thought it would be wise to replace the bushings in the used LCAs while they were out b/c the rear of my hatch has some squeaks when the rear end be articulating.
When I look up the cost of new bushings, plus the cost of the junkyard LCA, I am within $9 of buying new 4-door EX LCAs from Honda ($82.94 vs $74.50).
Am I missing anything? It seems like to me like buying the new EX LCA is the way to go and get the new bushings and LCAs tapped for sway bar end links...
I have been going back and forth on bushings. Hardrace and PIC performance (aka Suja1) have a pretty attractive looking bushing kit from a price perspective, but both claim stiffer than OEM rubber. Given the fact new bushings will probably last 10 years at least I am probably just going to go with OEM wherever possible like 94eg! mentions. I may use Integra part numbers instead of the Civic, since they are different. I have to imagine the rubber may be slightly different for the integra, as the LCA geometry is the same between the Integra and Civic I am fairly sure.
Squeaking heard inside the car is most likely due to a bushing attached to the chassis. Upper arm, lower arm, compensator arm, trailing arm, and even shock absorber all have a bushing attached to the chassis. It is very difficult to isolate the exact source. Pretty much start replacing things.
Honda does sell a trailing arm bushing. In fact they actually sell 3 or 4 versions of it. It's just not shown on the parts diagram. Don't use anything else. The Spoon, Hardrace & Truehart versions are too restrictive and actually alter your suspension geometry. Their design eliminates the toe-in under braking which reduces your straight line braking stability. Good for race cars that want to step the tail of the car out under hard braking, but not street cars where you want stable emergency stops.
52385-SR3-003 is the most cost effective one. For more information, read this: https://honda-tech.com/forums/acura-...hings-3024027/
Honda does sell a trailing arm bushing. In fact they actually sell 3 or 4 versions of it. It's just not shown on the parts diagram. Don't use anything else. The Spoon, Hardrace & Truehart versions are too restrictive and actually alter your suspension geometry. Their design eliminates the toe-in under braking which reduces your straight line braking stability. Good for race cars that want to step the tail of the car out under hard braking, but not street cars where you want stable emergency stops.
52385-SR3-003 is the most cost effective one. For more information, read this: https://honda-tech.com/forums/acura-...hings-3024027/
It is funny when I search the 52385-SR3-003 it comes up with no fitment info - $29.85
52385-S21-003 $34.89
52385-SR3-000 $54.44
I saw mention of a warranty from 2006, I am guessing Honda would tell me to get bent now if I tried to get some of that warranty love...
Link to the service bulletin for changing the RTA bushings: http://www.performanceforum.com/wesv...ing/report.pdf
Last edited by 94 Civic Si; Jan 23, 2024 at 02:30 PM.
I just had an epic day at one of the pull-apart yards I go to every now and then week or two ago where I got most of the suspension from a pretty clean looking Integra LS. One of the things I got was the rear LCA, which are tapped for sway bar end links as well as ABS lines. After getting home I came to the conclusion you already did, that it may have been, at least for the rear LCA, more cost effective to buy a new loaded arm direct from Honda. But now that I have the arms I am going to press the bushings out (or try to by myself, first time having done it), have the arms powder coated and then press in new OEM Honda bushings. Definitely more work but I like learning how to do new things. In hindsight, for the rear LCA the best route is probably to just buy new OEM arms already loaded with bushings based on the price.
I have been going back and forth on bushings. Hardrace and PIC performance (aka Suja1) have a pretty attractive looking bushing kit from a price perspective, but both claim stiffer than OEM rubber. Given the fact new bushings will probably last 10 years at least I am probably just going to go with OEM wherever possible like 94eg! mentions. I may use Integra part numbers instead of the Civic, since they are different. I have to imagine the rubber may be slightly different for the integra, as the LCA geometry is the same between the Integra and Civic I am fairly sure.
I have been going back and forth on bushings. Hardrace and PIC performance (aka Suja1) have a pretty attractive looking bushing kit from a price perspective, but both claim stiffer than OEM rubber. Given the fact new bushings will probably last 10 years at least I am probably just going to go with OEM wherever possible like 94eg! mentions. I may use Integra part numbers instead of the Civic, since they are different. I have to imagine the rubber may be slightly different for the integra, as the LCA geometry is the same between the Integra and Civic I am fairly sure.
One thing I learned when I was buying things for my "refresh", many items were listed for both Honda and Acura fitment. However, if you ordered the Acura fitment, you always pay a few $ more...
Price just depends. MSRP (or list price) is always different for every dealership. Whe have 4 Honda and 2 Acura dealers locally and all have completely different MSRPs.
But when it comes to ordering both Honda-only AND Acura-only parts from one place, you usually can't beat OEMAcuraParts. They sell both. Also they charge a little more for the Honda counterpart (for pieces that cross both brands) since they have to get them from a neighboring partner dealership.
But when it comes to ordering both Honda-only AND Acura-only parts from one place, you usually can't beat OEMAcuraParts. They sell both. Also they charge a little more for the Honda counterpart (for pieces that cross both brands) since they have to get them from a neighboring partner dealership.
I forgot about the cost of powder coat - definitely going to go w/ new LCA from Honda since they are still available.
One thing I learned when I was buying things for my "refresh", many items were listed for both Honda and Acura fitment. However, if you ordered the Acura fitment, you always pay a few $ more...
One thing I learned when I was buying things for my "refresh", many items were listed for both Honda and Acura fitment. However, if you ordered the Acura fitment, you always pay a few $ more...
Civic Sedan/Coupe/Hatch (ABS) 92/93-95, 95+ Del Sol VTEC
Rear lower arm (R) : 52350-SH3-G21
Outer bushings: 52365-SH3-000
Shock absorber bushing: 52622-SH3-010
Integra (all except Type-R), Del Sol Si (96-97 only)
Rear lower arm (R): 52350-SH3-G31
Outer bushings: 52365-SK7-A02
Shock absorber bushing: 52622-SK7-A02
So that's what I meant by this statement:
I may use Integra part numbers instead of the Civic, since they are different. I have to imagine the rubber may be slightly different for the integra, as the LCA geometry is the same between the Integra and Civic I am fairly sure.
Yes they are different, but they are ALL interchangeable. There are 3 differences between all various part#'s...
- Sway-bar attachments yes/no
- ABS attachments yes/no
- bushing style.
The Integra bushings have extra steel inserts in the rubber portion.
- Sway-bar attachments yes/no
- ABS attachments yes/no
- bushing style.
The Integra bushings have extra steel inserts in the rubber portion.
Ok great! I knew if they had a different p/n there must be a design difference. Is the purpose of the inserts to provide extra rigidity do you think? Or is it just a slightly different design of the same function between the design without the extra steel inserts?






