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Troubleshooting: DC2R Ignition components options for a standalone ECU

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Old Dec 2, 2017 | 11:15 AM
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Junaid K's Avatar
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Default Troubleshooting: DC2R Ignition components options for a standalone ECU

Guys, some advice. I have 98 JDM DC2 ITR. I decided to go standalone and battling to get the car running. I initially wanted to go with an MSD cap and external Bosch coil. Car started up initially then died on the dyno. We tried everything to get it running but it wouldn't. We then tried to go full sequential using an Opel coil pack and the b16 dizzy housing and wheel. Still no go. Last option is to go with a 36-1 trigger wheel on the pulley. Problem is I have an ATI and there isn't anywhere to mount a trigger wheel in the pulley, or is there a way? I'd be really disappointed to get rid of the ATI...
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Old Dec 4, 2017 | 07:01 AM
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Default Re: Troubleshooting: DC2R Ignition components options for a standalone ECU

What ecu are you running? Can't offer any guidance whatsoever with no idea of what platform you are on.

If eliminating the distributor, you should be able to use the CKF sensor on the oil pump and the toothed wheel there for crank position. You will need to add a sensor to the cam for sync. You may need to convert to a usdm oil pump and lower timing belt pulley to do this.
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Old Dec 4, 2017 | 09:36 AM
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Default Re: Troubleshooting: DC2R Ignition components options for a standalone ECU

I'm on a local system called Powermods. We were actually considering mounting the trigger wheel between the 2 pulleys of the ATI using the 3 bolts to hold them all together. We'll eed to space the ps pump out by 5mm using some washers so the pulley is aligned.

Any problem with this?
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Old Dec 4, 2017 | 05:34 PM
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Default Re: Troubleshooting: DC2R Ignition components options for a standalone ECU

Sure you can do that. ATI has toothed pulleys off the shelf, you may want to contact them first. There are plenty of options available. Your engine probably already has a wheel and a hall sensor, unless your ecu requires a specific profile you should be able to configure it for what's already there:



You can also use one of the kits from Rywire or T1 Race Development. Those kits do cam and crank and honestly, the cam is the harder of the two since there's not already a trigger on the front of the engine. You will not get the car running without a cam sensor.
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