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-spacers or springs is purely choice on which direction you wish to go
-tire size is going to vary if you are lifting as well as if you are getting different rims
-your best bet for a tire cover is ebay, and you will probably have to color match it yourself
-you dont get the factory crv decals. rare as heck and expensive, however there is a guy on the rd1 facebook page that makes replica ones that are awesome
-enjoy the v!!!
could you point me in the right direction to the guy who makes the decals?
Okay guys....I've got the lift blocks and rear camber arms figured out and tire size is a go(235/75/15), however my main concern is the wheels.
I see some of yous running the cragar soft 8s or trailmaster tm5 rims but nobody is saying anything about the wheels being hubcentric. Who is running hub spacers and where did you get them? I'm thinking of making my own, but I would rather buy them. the center bore on the cragars and trailmaster are at 80.7mm and the stock crv is like 64.1mm and with simple math that makes the spaces requirement at 16.6mm and I have not been able to find any that big anywhere. Help?
They don't stock the size you need, closest they have is a 79.5 - 64.1 however they do make custom sizes if you're willing to spend the money.
Thanks. Found a company in Lithuania that makes them also, emailed them and waiting for a response. The USA guys want a bit too much money for my budget, maybe I'll make my own.
it's just a bash rig but it turned out not bad they where zero ***** given when building it so it could be a lot nicer but ive just been playin lol I just did this stack for fun got it wedged between two trees which bent the rub rail but that's what it was for
dylan_819 is there an email or # where i can reach you? Facebook, something??? Have some questions bout those badasss caged bumpers you have.
By hubcentric do you mean like will the bore hole(i think im saying it right) be big enough to fit ?? Or what is the problem??
To answer your question, yes, the center of the wheel is the center bore(or bore hole if you prefer).I thought I read somewhere in this thread that the wheels need to ride on the center hub(hubcentric) and not the lugs(lug centric) for best performance and safety. I could be wrong, but I would assume that putting too much torque on a stud could cause it to fail if it was not secured properly to the hub. Wherein if the center of the wheel was as close as possible to the center hub of the axle there would be less chance of wheel wobble and stress on the studs.
Sorry so long winded but I wanted to be somewhat clear.
BTW, your V is BADASS!
To answer your question, yes, the center of the wheel is the center bore(or bore hole if you prefer).I thought I read somewhere in this thread that the wheels need to ride on the center hub(hubcentric) and not the lugs(lug centric) for best performance and safety. I could be wrong, but I would assume that putting too much torque on a stud could cause it to fail if it was not secured properly to the hub. Wherein if the center of the wheel was as close as possible to the center hub of the axle there would be less chance of wheel wobble and stress on the studs.
You're on the right track but not quite fully accurate.
Wheels don't "ride on" the hub-centric ring. The ring is only to help center the wheel during installation. Once the lug nuts are tightened it's the clamping force that holds the wheel against the hub - there's a huge amount of friction with that much force applied. In theory, the studs don't even hold weight! If this doesn't seem to make sense, consider how I used MINI rotors on my Prelude. The MINI rotors were drilled for M14 studs, so you'd think they would slop around on my M12 Honda studs. But no, once the wheel is installed, the hub, rotor, and wheel are clamped together firmly and will not move relative to each other.
I still use hub-centric rings when possible, because it helps rule out the possibility of installing the wheel off center. This way I know if I have a wobble it's probably a tire imbalance, not a bad job of installing the wheel on the car. But when I'm driving down the road, those little plastic rings are just along for the ride and not doing anything.
So in other words, if you've got some wheels with an unusual center bore size, don't jump straight to spending big bucks on custom hub-centric rings - first try mounting them by torquing the nuts carefully in the star pattern. It will probably be fine.
You're on the right track but not quite fully accurate.
Wheels don't "ride on" the hub-centric ring. The ring is only to help center the wheel during installation. Once the lug nuts are tightened it's the clamping force that holds the wheel against the hub - there's a huge amount of friction with that much force applied. In theory, the studs don't even hold weight! If this doesn't seem to make sense, consider how I used MINI rotors on my Prelude. The MINI rotors were drilled for M14 studs, so you'd think they would slop around on my M12 Honda studs. But no, once the wheel is installed, the hub, rotor, and wheel are clamped together firmly and will not move relative to each other.
I still use hub-centric rings when possible, because it helps rule out the possibility of installing the wheel off center. This way I know if I have a wobble it's probably a tire imbalance, not a bad job of installing the wheel on the car. But when I'm driving down the road, those little plastic rings are just along for the ride and not doing anything.
So in other words, if you've got some wheels with an unusual center bore size, don't jump straight to spending big bucks on custom hub-centric rings - first try mounting them by torquing the nuts carefully in the star pattern. It will probably be fine.
Thank you for clearing that up for me! Seriously some good stuff! The wheels I wanna get do have a large center bore, 16.1mm difference to be exact and Im running 20mm spacers on the hubs now so I didn't want to take the chance of any wheel wobble. I found a company in Lithuania on eBay that's got them(rings) for like $6USD + free shipping, I can't pass them up.
I really do appreciate the info.
One more question if you don't mind...on gen 1s is there any special camber bolts or adjustments that need to be done on the front of my V after I do the lift?
That diesel 2nd gen looks sweet on the 30mm spacers, really like the 2nd picture! What tire size is on there currently? I am excited because my AUS Dobinsons springs are going to be here this week! Been waiting too long to do all this, but have everything gathered--
Now I am contemplating getting some 20mm wheel spacers to go with my 215AT on all four corners instead of running 235's on the next set of tires, any thoughts?
Last edited by KINgJ8; Dec 3, 2017 at 12:37 PM.
Reason: more
[QUOTE=KINgJ8;51496663}
Now I am contemplating getting some 20mm wheel spacers to go with my 215AT on all four corners instead of running 235's on the next set of tires, any thoughts?[/QUOTE]
This is basically what I'm doing. I don't want the extra weight and rolling resistance of wider tires. I have 215's on stock wheels with 20mm spacers for winter, and will be getting some 215's mounted on a set of low offset Ford Ranger wheels for summer.
In my opinion, looking "looking impressive" should be at the very bottom of the priority list when choosing a tire size.
After some blood sweat and tears I finally got the 'ol girl together! I was surprised with the ride quality after everything was installed still rides like a dream! Now to get the light bar on and keep playing!
This is basically what I'm doing. I don't want the extra weight and rolling resistance of wider tires. I have 215's on stock wheels with 20mm spacers for winter, and will be getting some 215's mounted on a set of low offset Ford Ranger wheels for summer.
In my opinion, looking "looking impressive" should be at the very bottom of the priority list when choosing a tire size.
We spend quite a bit of time on forest service roads, river bars, local beaches and in the snow so the 235's still might be viable for more flotation, but the weight increases are huge! The spacers would widen my track and hopefully counteract the 40mm lift's sway at speed? Already only getting 21mpg on the HWY with bars, box, awning and usually a bike rack on back. Any less MPG and I am buying an first gen Lexus GX470 with real 4x4...
After some blood sweat and tears I finally got the 'ol girl together! I was surprised with the ride quality after everything was installed still rides like a dream! Now to get the light bar on and keep playing!
Looks awesome! What is that 30mm Tema4x4 spacers? Never a fan of that color until now
We spend quite a bit of time on forest service roads, river bars, local beaches and in the snow so the 235's still might be viable for more flotation, but the weight increases are huge! The spacers would widen my track and hopefully counteract the 40mm lift's sway at speed?
I've wondered about this for a while. How much wider does a tire need to be to provide an advantageous amount of flotation? Surely the relationship can't be linear. I'd be very surprised if that 10% of extra width provided exactly 10% better flotation. At what point on different surfaces (gravel / sand / snow) do the increases in weight and rolling resistance become worthwhile? This is the stuff that keeps me googling when I should be dealing with real life...
Re: *Official H/T OFFROAD/LIFTED CR-V thread!*
