PolkaSauce

Here's a link to those dobinsons springs if you're not really looking for a bigger strut spacer. You can probably get away with running the spring and the spacer together. But the springs are pretty stiff. You might not even need the spacer.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M0K13NM/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_WOiMBb3GEWGEE

ClabbeB

Debating if I should get bigger lift spacers for the back.
Right now it is 1.18" front and back and I can get 1.58" for the rear only.
I have however not "seen" any sag (except on previous pic since it is fully loaded)

Then I have added 90bs on the roof with the custom roof basket, bars and lights/cables
In the rear I have the aftermarket fitted tow hook with the custom tow step, which is an additional 66lbs hanging on the rear axle.
In the boot I have the safety dog cage and cargo barrier which is another 50lbs hanging on(behind the rear wheel.

ClabbeB

Would love to have these on my Gen2... But not available unfortunately

PolkaSauce

I'd say if you're getting major rubbing over bumps, get the stiffer springs, if it's just slight, with the car loaded down, you would probably get away with just using bigger spacers. That little extra clearance could make a world of difference. Just make sure that you don't rake up the rear too much more than the front, trying to get rid of the rubbing. Unless you intend to drive around with your car weighted down at all times. Otherwise your handling will be jacked.

PolkaSauce

So I rotated the wheels. Still get the shake around 60-80. No pulsating in the brake pedal so I doubt it's the brakes. Shakes regardless of Accel/decel. Axle "seems" solid. Doesn't have a whole lot of play that I can tell at least. I did notice my differential damper is shot to hell, but I doubt that's causing the rukus up front. I'm suspecting a bushing/ball joint has gone bad somewhere up front. Everything looks pretty old, more than likely original part. Now I get to start the fun process of throw new parts at it till the shakes gone, yay!

Punkaddic

I would upgrade the rear springs if i was you. I had to do that on mine because my gen gets loaded pretty heavy on the back with a heavy duty bike rack and 4 downhill mountain bikes. Old man emu makes them for the gen 2 and they're pretty good. Makes the V handles so much more better too. Also running 225-70-16 on mine and it never rubs even on rough backcountry roads

ClabbeB

Are you also lifted and what ET is on your wheels?
I have ET13 on my wheels and most likely that is why it rubs as it scrapes the fender

Punkaddic

Front is not lifted and rear has old man emu springs for roughly 1.5'' lift. It was fine with oem wheels (16x6.5 +50) but a bit tight in the back. Now i'm running 16x7 +40 and i'd say its perfect

ClabbeB

Ordered some spring assisters that are used by a lot of towers and caravaners here in Europe.
They were fairly cheap so I'll give em a try first


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PolkaSauce

Hope it works out for ya! As I mentioned earlier though, you should definitely look into a long term solution. As punk was mentioning, the OME springs are used quite a bit by the forum members here. Mostly on the first gens though. For 2nd gens OME only offers .75 springs for the rear, as a leveling kit. But for your situation, that might be better considering you already have 1" lift spacers in already. The springs will offer just a bit of lift, and have the stiffness to support that added weight you're lugging around. The only downside is, I've also heard, from many members, that OME springs are a pain to get a hold of, whether it be availability, lack of communication, or the heinous shipping time.

ClabbeB

Will try out this first but have already located a retailer close to me here for the OME (ARB) springs and will check with them

ClabbeB

A thought,
Is anyone here, who have lifted their V, that have a hi-lift jack in the car?
If so, how have you mounted it?

Since the lift the OEM jack is not lifting at all so would need to get a "higher" and the hi-jack lift seems to be the only solution in case you would have to change your tire.
Was thinking of getting the short version, 33" and maybe build a bracket and secure it beside the spare wheel or maybe build a bracket for the roof basket?

schoettt

Nave43

Im thinking of going with 215 75 15s whenever i purchase a set for my RD1. From what ive read pretty sure they will clear without a lift and without rubbing at lock.

PolkaSauce

I just carry around a bottle Jack and a block of wood for the time being. It's not the best, but it works in a pinch.

PolkaSauce

What gen are you running? The gen 2s have a slightly bigger wheel well than the gen 1's

uriedog

Never even looked at the height of the factory jack... Better check that this weekend. would hate to find out when I get a flat!

PolkaSauce

With that size, you could probably get by without a lift, but will more than likely need to trim plastics and bang out the pinch welds, especially if you're going for a beefier tread type. You'll run into scrapes every now and then if not, more so with weight in your car.

PolkaSauce

Harbor freight sells decent bottle Jacks on the cheap! ideally you'll want something with a height yield of about 18.5. The one I got was only 17 1/4, so it gets the tire to that point where it's just barely still touching the ground. Hence the wood block lol

ClabbeB

Does anyone have the measurements on the front spacers?

I can only find for the rear which is good for Gen 2 and Gen 1

CMarv

Hi All,

I Have a question about lifting my first Gen CR-V...I just found this forum, and it looks like an incredible wealth of knowledge!

Here's my current part list that I bought before finding this forum:

• -Aerogenics 2" lift pucks
  • https://aerogenicsusa.com/collection...=2072705433629
• Truhart Camber Kit for front and rear camber
  • Amazon
    Amazon
  • Amazon
    Amazon

If I made any dumb mistakes on my part selection, feel free to let me know.

Main question though: In the Colorado Moutnain Rally camber kit install instructions, they have these bushing washers on either side of the control arm inboard mounts. They state that if these washers aren't used, the aftermarket control arm will rattle around in the body and eventually cause failure. Is there any validity to these claims? Do I need to go find a way to get these washers?


Huge thanks in advance! I'll be sure to post some pictures of the Lifted CR-V in action once I get this all sorted out

12arotarymiata

your rd1 looks awesome. Have you had any issues with axle bind? How much lift do you have total?

12arotarymiata

do you have any issues with axle bind?

schoettt

PolkaSauce

With that backspacing you're definitely going to run into trouble. The wheels will stick out way too far, and put a lot of stress on the hubs/cv's.
I personally am running 15x8 with 4.25 backspacing (or -6 offset if you want to call it that) on my 2003, with 215/70/15 tires, and it required 5mm spacers to clear the calipers, and at least a 1" lift in the back to avoid fender scrapes.

The closer to 0 offset you are, the better. If you can find positive offset, even better. Just to give you an idea, I believe 2nd gen wheels are 16x6 with a +45 offset. The wheels you're looking at are shorter, but 2 sizes wider, with a -19 offset.

I've linked a conversion chart below to help you out.
Triple check your sizes before buying all you're wheels to avoid headache.

​​​​​​http://www.wheelspecialists.com/wheel-specs

And just a forewarning, I bought mine from 4wheelparts as well, initially, I bought the 15x7's with a +6 offset, for like 40 a wheel. Only to find out a week later that even though they were listed in stock, the procomp no longer made that size, and they didn't have enough to fill my order, so we had to scramble to find wheels comparable in size and price. Which is how I ended up with the 15x8s. I'm not mad about it, they were very helpful. I would just call in and double check that they can actually fulfill your order before your pay a pretty penny.


Good luck!
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