OK so I fucked up when assembling my engine, I didn't do all my researched and just realized that I was supposed to put vaseline on the oil pump in order to build oil pressure when cranking. I remembered that my machinist told me that in case I couldn't build oil pressure to go talk to him and he would let me borrow a machine/tool that supposed to force oil to circulate therefore builds oil pressure. I went to talk to him today to see if he could let me borrow the machine/ tool next week and he told me that I would need to figure out where to connect a fitting to the block. My question is where would be the best spot on the block to do so? I was thinking where the oil sensor is located, would that be a good spot?

 

I would try to borrow an oil pressure gauge if you don't have one already, and disconnect the ECU and just crank it for a few seconds and see if pressure builds first. I didn't use vaseline in my newly assembled motor and it had pressure.

 

Fill oil filter half full of oil, screw it on. Run it. If the pump is dry, with no lube, you may have an issue. It just needs to be wet. That pickup gets oil to it very quick. You should get pressure in about 3 seconds.

 

Is there an actual problem with the engine or are you just worrying for the sake of worrying ?

 

Well at the moment I cant get it to start, the car cranks but doesn't turn on. I know for sure that I am getting fuel to the fuel rail and spark so I was thinking it could be the injectors. I tried using some carb cleaner and it sounded like it wanted to start but stopped cranking it when I realized the oil light was on. I only have time to work on it on the weekends that's why I been making slow progress. The other thing that I'm not sure if it might be the problem is that the basemap didn't uploaded correctly to the hoondata ecu first time using hondata software. Since I realize I wasn't getting oil pressure I gave up trying to start it since I'm afraid that might damage the motor.

 

I forgot to mention I took off the rc injectors and realized I was missing the o'ring that goes on the bottom and the middle oring was wet with fuel so I'm thinking maybe the fuel was leaking out. Anyone know how to be sure that the injectors are not clogged? other then sending them out to get flow tested( I got them used so I'm not 100% sure they are working). I checked for resistance and I'm getting around 15.8ohms on all of them and I touched the leads to a 6v battery and all of them click.

 

as long as you had the standard amount of oil in the pan your oil pump will be fine

you can pull an injector and put it in a rag and have someone crank it and see if it's spraying, check the normal stuff, make sure the mechanical timing is still on

 

Don't use carb cleaner, use a can of starter fluid, it's only like $3 and it works much better. Just go step by step: Try spraying a little starter fluid while it's cranking at WOT. Doesn't start? It's not fuel related then.

Check for spark. Do you have bright white spark? With the engine at TDC is the distributor rotor pointed at #1 cylinder? Are you positive the plug wires are in the correct order?

Check mechanical timing. Do the hash marks on the cams line up when the single mark on the crank pulley is at the indicator?

Try getting a different tune put on the chip. My LSVTEC when first assembled would barely run for 3 seconds, and you had to constantly vary the throttle position in order to even get it to do that. It was a mess. But that turned out to all be in the tune. And it'll need to be tuned by someone reputable anyway, that's the most important part of a build and so many people don't budget for it or think "it'll be fine". Then they wonder why their car has issues or only lasts 15k.

 

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F121625987442

these work great to make sure all injectors are doing the same stuff. Hook up fuel pressure guage, and see if all bleed off the same pressure. Check fuel, check spark, check for vacuume leaks. An injector noid light may help too. Havn't dove into maps yet, so no help there.

 

Nor did I in all 3 of my engines. I've never even heard of that. Interesting

 

Yyyessss... In the ancient days of dinosaurs, and rubber batteries, you needed to pack jelly in a gear driven pump. These are the days of the rotary vane. Big difference.

 

ok thankz for the info hopefully I can make some progress this weekend if it doesn't rain. I didn't know about the Vaseline in the oil pump either my machinist told me about that.

 

UPDATE:
I took off the valve cover and I tried priming the engine earlier today was about to give up and then boom I saw oil dripping on the cams from the cam caps, the oil light is still on but if oil is circulating in the head I should be fine right?

 

Since its the last place to get oil, my sorces say yes! I seem to remember about 15 years ago, I did pack a rotory vane with jelly. It took a long time to get oil pressure. I started, and shut it off like 3 or 4 times, worrying why it wasn't getting pressure. It was probably all stuck in the galleys. Scared the crap out of me. That was the last time I ever did it. Even v8 gears, I just prime.

 

Update:
EF is up and running thankz to everyone who pitch in their opinions and advice

 

what was the issue ?

 

the fuel problem was due to the missing gaskets from the injectors and the last problem I had was because I did the obd0-obd1 dizzy conversion wrong I had to rewire it 4 times till I got it right lol