Hi, so I have a slight issue. I have a turbo B18C with a GTX2867R. I am runninf .030 oil restrictor and a -8 return line. However, I have a low mount turbo setup with a mini ram manifold. Being that I have little to work with as far as gravity to return my oil, I have recently invested in a Turbowerx scavenge pump. I have recently discovered oil in my charge pipe (its blowing out of the bov) and the only thing that could be causing it is the bad return line angle. Anyway, my question is as follows: Since I am having oil bypass due to oil return, what are the chances that the turbo "seals" are damaged? I was told that as long as I fix the oil return, the oil bypass would stop it would start to seal again and clear itself up. Can anyone give me peace of mind? I only have 500 miles on the new turbo but I am very concerned right now. Thanks!

 

Thats a great pic. I would get rid of that loop. Shortening the line possibly with two 45 degree fittings. Whats your catch can setup.

 

Unfortunately, having a 45 off the turbo would put my return line lower than the bung on the pan. A 90 and the loop was the only way. I am addressing the issue of my return line with a Turbowerx scavenge pump. As far as my catch can, I have 2 -10 running into my can, and 2 -10 to valve cover. My main concern here though is the turbo. I read that oil bypassing is a sign of blown seals. Do you guys think that having my line hooked up like that damaged my turbo seals in the 500 miles it was driven? Or do you think that if I fix the issue, the turbo is fine and will stop pushing oil into my charge pipe?


Edit: I took off the air filter and there is a very small amount of Oil in the turbo itself. No shaft play. Lets discuss more on the catch can though please (this is another issue that needs to be addressed according to the company i bought the turbo from, but they wont reply to me now). So lets discuss that. I just want to look at all angles here and figure out all the problems so I can drive stress free.

 

I think the turbo is good. Could possibly take the downpipe off and look inside for reassurance. Only real way would be for disassembly, which i dont think you should do that. Id would definitely take care of that drain pronto though. Before it does cause problems. Besides you would likely have a james bond smoke screen. Even then, the smoking would prolly be from rings.

id recommend doin a compression check and/or a leakdown test. Is your catch can filling up.

 

Yeah, I am just waiting for my scavenge pump to ship in so I can hook that up asap. I will be doing a leak down test tomorrow and checking my catch can for level. Ill report back tomorrow after work.

 

Yeah, the compressor side is from crankcase issues. Check the turbine side as ls Joker suggested in order to confirm issues with your oil drain system.

 

Ok, ill work with it tomorrow night and see what the results are.

 

You can fix that oil drain w/o using a scavenger pump.
It needs to be 5/8 or-10AN...-8 is too small.
I would remove that line and fittings completely and put the 1/2" block off bung back in that Moroso pre welded fitting.
Use a barb /push lock style drain hose setup and place the weld bung for the pan where you actually need it. (the fitting angles will be 45 deg and straight, don't use a 90). We keep drain kits for mini ram style/low mount manifolds on the shelf here

 

Excellent, excellent Advice.

Co-sign.

 

*Cough*

 

 

So a 45 worked for you, but mine is lower than yours. Here is what I am dealing with. The 45 would make my line below the oil level and have to push it uphill again to the new bung.

 

OMG.. I recant my statement. you're stuck with this for a bit. Autoworks / Spoolin' used the same style manifold that sits low, (as shown in the examples,) but not that low, to a point where the turbo is below the frame.. That's bad news, sir.

 

^^
It is too low now looking from that angle. You are in a "scavenger or new manifold" scenario for a proper oil drain angle. I saw one of those pass through here maybe a year or go (the only one I'd ever seen in person like that); which was the first I had seen someone make that was just unworkable w/o doing a pump setup.

Getting away from the AN fittings and going to barb w/ a Mini allows for a longer/more workable hose.

 

I'm not sure even the scavange will help, because of the fact that the turbo's return line oil can't be "pushed" or "pulled" into an oil pan, nor can it work with such a short distance even down an oil return path.

 

Ok well thanks so far for the help guys. I really appreciate it. Its unfortunate, but I either use my TurboWerx scavenge pump, or redesign my manifold. I am fine with either way. I just want it right and able to drive without worry. Would the scavenge pump be worth the effort though, or should I just plan on building a new manifold. Apparently my fabricator didn't compensate for the return line lol.....

 

Turbo drain outlet to reservoir to scav. pump to pan maybe? That is going to get tricky...also why the earlier mentioned scenario left w/ a new manifold. Less $, less plumbing, less headache.

 

In theory, but not enough length of room for the scav pump to work with. Those need distance with a length of line to work from most (At least the ones I've dealt with. (Mainly V8 Twin turbos with low-mounted manifolds for over 1500whp, or some Custom "ariel atom" styled rear-engined setups. )

So, dunno.. But at least Xperience is getting more this.... Experience. (ok, ok, bad attempt, I know.. )

 

Pm'd. and you are correct.....Xperience is getting Experience! My first turbo build and there has been a lot learned that will be carried over to the next build. I do appreciate the help I have received though. It has helped me a bunch.

 

Greg and Shodan are the local wizards. Both are chock full of great experience and advice.

Personally I'd just bypass all the scavenging pump and extra plumbing, and just replace the manifold with a better mini-ram. Way less of a headache IMO, and I bet by the time it's all said and done the slightly higher cost of a different manifold would be well worth it.

Just .02

 

Yeah, they have been very helpful. So I am working on a material list and I am just going to redo my manifold all together and sell my scavenge pump.

 

Leak down test results. 98% on cylinder 3 and the rest were 100. And downpipe taken off and no oil

 

You're too kind.

I agree, a new manifold will be the best solution

 

A new manifold with a Go-Autoworks GT return line kit would be most optimal, and will help you place the return bung in the right central area using a high pressure hose over the SS line. It just allows for more flexibility

 

Another option if you have some fabrication skills or want to source it out... is to rotate the turbo return line pointing towards the passenger side and construct and can (rectangle shape) for the return to fill directly off the turbo (inlet of can on the side)... then place a drain bung on the bottom of this new can and go with a full flow 45 degree which will then go to the oil pan.... the drain fitting on the bottom of the can must be as large as possible along with the drain hose.