Break issue
Hows it going guys. Just finished boosting my ls.i also replaced the brake booster check valve and all. But with the turbo the pedal gets super tight. No vaccum leaks i checked for those. Is it because of the turbo inducing soo much air? Should i put a vaccum pump in the car?
its just the front calipers sticking. i replaced booster, I've replaced the check valve, I've created space between master cylinder and the booster. i replaced the calipers and they're still sticking. prop valve? abs? i pulled all the fuses and the motor relay for the abs. i also drove with the ebrake up to try to get the abs to disengage and didn't get anywhere with it. I'm lost. my pedal isn't sinking to the floor. and my rears aren't sticking at all.
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so the booster and master cylinder isn't adjusted properly? do you know the spacing ive looked everywhere and cant find it. and since my front calipers are sticking would the rod on the booster need to be shortened to shorten the throw of the pedal or do I need to elongate the throw of the rod?
Is it because he has a master that’s mismatched to the booster? No info on chassis/master/booster was provided. Would he have to shim the master off of the booster in some case I’ve never run into?
I believe this is what Tyson is referring to
http://my.cardone.com/techdocs/PT%2053-0001.pdf
There used to be a honda-tech thread on how to do it, but haven't found it
http://my.cardone.com/techdocs/PT%2053-0001.pdf
There used to be a honda-tech thread on how to do it, but haven't found it
had nothing to do with the adjustment on the booster. its the abs. checked continuity on the system. she's getting power. i think the pump is completely shot I'm not getting the hum when she turns on. no abs light no codes for the pump being over run. i disconnected the abs module and was seeing if it would do anything tried to jump the system even bled it. still nada. i think the pump **** the bed and won't let fluid return and causing the front calipers to lock up.
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From: TRILLINOIS....WAY downtown, jerky.
if I bleed the calipers to release the pistons, then I can spin the rotors. if I pump the brakes even a few times they lock up again. the abs module I think is bad. the relay and all is getting power. so I think either the module is bad or the pump for the abs is bad itself. its allowing fluid to pass through but not to release back out. it has new calipers new brackets new guide pins.
Has the unit ever been serviced? ABS modules need to be bled as well.
i totally forgot about that adjustment. I think I even have the tool floating around somewhere. That guide pretty much covers the process.
I believe this is what Tyson is referring to
http://my.cardone.com/techdocs/PT%2053-0001.pdf
There used to be a honda-tech thread on how to do it, but haven't found it
http://my.cardone.com/techdocs/PT%2053-0001.pdf
There used to be a honda-tech thread on how to do it, but haven't found it
I am getting ready to swap to integra rotor\calipers in the front of my 93 si and a 15/16th MC from a 91 ex so this adjustment has been in the back of my mind
Must have figured it out. If not, you need to open the brake line for the front on the master, and see if the wheels brake free. If not work your way down until you find the spot where it squirts fluid. The point before the line you open will be your blockage. Start at the beginning, not the end.
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migs
Acura Integra Type-R
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May 11, 2005 07:26 AM







