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Hard part is done. Only got about 2 hours to work on it today because homework, but got the clutch and flywheel installed, tranny back in, engine mounts, clutch cable, and starter done.
All thats left is to finish the work on my shift linkage, charge pipe, reattach exhaust and fill the tranny. After putting axles in and traction bar.
Also I didn't get a picture yet, but I noticed I had slop in my drivers side engine mount. The wrong bolt was used, it had too long of an unthreaded shaft. So it couldn't tighten the mount all the way before bottoming out. I added about 1/2" of washers and now it squeezes the rubber mount tight. Before I could stick my pry bar in and move the engine back and forth.
This is how much $40 something gets you in nuts and bolts from the stealership. Stuff for the shifter. The bolt closest to the bottom of pic was missing completely. I thought about just using the one shown I had layin around, but decided while I had everything apart to just get all oem stuff and do it right. New main seal installed. I used the drill and screw method to pull the old one out. Could definitely see it was leaking, didnt look like oem brand. Used old one to tap the new into place. Flywheel torqued and lookin pretty Got this sweet universal clutch alignment kit from napa for $20. Was the only place I could find in the area that had one after callin around. Got to use my new click style torque wrench lots on this project. Back in place
I feel like we need to get our cars together for a little photo op! White EF Hatch with that White CRX.. mmm!
Glad you kept the CRX, I'm still slowly working on the EF. Trying to make up my mind if I should save for a
K20 swap, or just say **** it and get a B18.
Originally Posted by 2x0
Been a while since I've updated.... I am still battling with the vibration issue, just haven't had a lot of time to work on it.
What I've done recently:
- New passenger axle
- Injectors cleaned
- New spark plugs
- Fuel pressure tested OK
- Wheels balanced
- Alignment checked
- Checked motor mounts, sub frame, brakes, suspension, tie rods, every nut bolt and screw.
It is still running a bit lean under all conditions. During normal driving my S. trim and L. trim are both between 5 and 10%. I don't know how the tune could be this far off, but am going to try adding some fuel. I doubt that this is causing my vibration problem.
The only other thing it could be is the transmission, a bad bearing or something. Just wish there was some way to diagnose it and know what exactly is going on.
I feel like we need to get our cars together for a little photo op! White EF Hatch with that White CRX.. mmm!
Glad you kept the CRX, I'm still slowly working on the EF. Trying to make up my mind if I should save for a
K20 swap, or just say **** it and get a B18.
Thinkin I might keep it forever now and slowly restore it to perfection over the years. I've already got so much time and money into it. My next engine when this one dies would be a K series fosho.
Almost got it done, worked on the shifter today. Got all hardware replaced and bolted it back up to the tranny. Holy crap this thing feels so solid now without missing bolts! Just running thru the gears with the car off since I still have some work to do. Clutch also feels much stiffer than my old Comp did.
New oem bolts in Doesn't hang down and touch the exhaust anymore :D
Old clutch and flywheel were definitely fucked up. Just took it around the block and the engagement and overall feel of the car is sooo smooth now compared to before. All vibrations problems are gone, that I've been trying to resolve all year. So it was well worth the time and money.
Between the buttery albeit stiff as **** clutch, and the solid feeling shifter it truly drives like a different car now.
At first I couldn't get it into gear, but the cable just needed some adjustment. Then I had an issue when I drove it that it wanted to idle between 2500-3000rpm at a couple of stops, possibly a vacuum leak or sticky throttle but it seemed to go away after a few times.
Very happy but sucks that I won't be able to drive it much before storing for winter.
Here's what I had to do to get the one mount to tighten down, added the 4 washers. I think this probably contributed to how much better the car feels as well.
Would it be weird for me to say that hearing you say that gave me a boner? LOL JP, but yeah.. I'm stoked for you bro. When I first saw this thread after getting my EF Hatch I was all butt hurt when you said you were giving up on it.
I'm glad you got her running nicely for you. I want to see a video or two of you going HAM.. maybe quarter mile videos with times? Take care!
Originally Posted by 2x0
Well gents, she's like a new car!
Old clutch and flywheel were definitely fucked up. Just took it around the block and the engagement and overall feel of the car is sooo smooth now compared to before. All vibrations problems are gone, that I've been trying to resolve all year. So it was well worth the time and money.
Between the buttery albeit stiff as **** clutch, and the solid feeling shifter it truly drives like a different car now.
At first I couldn't get it into gear, but the cable just needed some adjustment. Then I had an issue when I drove it that it wanted to idle between 2500-3000rpm at a couple of stops, possibly a vacuum leak or sticky throttle but it seemed to go away after a few times.
Very happy but sucks that I won't be able to drive it much before storing for winter.
Here's what I had to do to get the one mount to tighten down, added the 4 washers. I think this probably contributed to how much better the car feels as well.
Wish I could get a 1/4 mile time with it, but it sounds like the only track left in MN is in Brainerd that I've heard of. Roughly a 3 hour drive for me so, yeah not happenin soon.
It definitely sucked inheriting all the problems that I did with this car, I had it up for sale most of the summer and just wanted out many times. But I wouldn't settle for a huge loss, and everyone who was interested in it were complete idiots. I'm glad I kept it, too. And now with all Ive learned and been through, it feels like my own project now.
At best I will try to get some driving vids when I can now that it's fixed, and next year will head back to the dyno to put down some numbers.
good to see you're getting all the issues sorted, that gap with the engine mount bolt is crazy.
how is your exhaust clearance? have you got any pics of the system? i've just made up a 3" system for mine and had to raise the front of the car a little bit to gain some clearance, at least until i remove it and cut/weld to tuck up higher in that section
Okay the more I drive it, the more I can start to feel the vibration again. It's not nearly as bad as it was, but it's still there.
I think it is definitely related somehow to the engine mounts. I'm just not sure exactly what the problem is. The rubber inserts all look new, and are obviously aftermarket. First, I need to get the right bolts so I can get rid of all those washers.
I'm not sure if feeling the vibration would be caused by the mounts being too soft, or too stiff.... So while I could try different ones, I wouldn't know which way to go. I think I should try running without the solid front mount also to see if that changes anything.
Otherwise, the car is driveable enough and just breaking in the new clutch for now. After fixing an exhaust leak where the downpipe bolts to the exhaust, and reattaching the shift lever boots, I don't get awful fumes inside the car anymore and I can actually drive with the windows up!
Wish I could get a 1/4 mile time with it, but it sounds like the only track left in MN is in Brainerd that I've heard of. Roughly a 3 hour drive for me so, yeah not happenin soon.
Come to TopEnd Dragways in Sabin MN. It's a bit of a drive, but worth it. You can get a ton of passes in, vs waiting hours sometimes at BIR. I'm glad the clutch fixed the issues, always nice to get a win after spending that sort of money.
Come to TopEnd Dragways in Sabin MN. It's a bit of a drive, but worth it. You can get a ton of passes in, vs waiting hours sometimes at BIR. I'm glad the clutch fixed the issues, always nice to get a win after spending that sort of money.
Any luck on the Ignition problems?
I will look into that place, definitely.
The cranking issue has not acted up again. So until it does, I can't really move forward with my diagnosis. Possibly it is fixed now, but I don't want to make that statement since I never truly identified what the problem was.
And the clutch has not completely fixed the issue either. It is a nice feeling clutch so I'm not upset that I did it, but I believe I have some more engine mount problems to deal with yet.
The cranking issue has not acted up again. So until it does, I can't really move forward with my diagnosis. Possibly it is fixed now, but I don't want to make that statement since I never truly identified what the problem was.
And the clutch has not completely fixed the issue either. It is a nice feeling clutch so I'm not upset that I did it, but I believe I have some more engine mount problems to deal with yet.
I would recommend Hasports. I have had no issues with mine in the crx for 12 years, or any other build I have ever done using them.
I would recommend Hasports. I have had no issues with mine in the crx for 12 years, or any other build I have ever done using them.
We shall see, I think the PO told me they were Hasports! But I don't trust anything he told me anymore, so they could be ebay or who knows whats.
The more I drive it around, tightening the one side definitely helped my shuddering problem ALOT. It's probably good enough now that I could get used to it. I think the remainder is just engine vibration that is being transmitted through the rigid front mount.
Some more fun stuff.... got a new shift knobby. I friggin hated the old metal ***** one that came with it, it was meant for midget hands or something. This one has a nice weighty feel. yeah I gotta fix the boot still.
I also got my closed loop turned back on today, got tired of constantly tweaking my idle fuel every time the weather or humidity changes. But I changed my closed loop parameters to where it can only add fuel, never remove fuel. This is because I only ever have problems with it leaning out, and idc about running a bit rich. For some reason my narrowband voltage gets weird blips and it tries to lean it out until it dies sometimes, so it remedied that issue.
On to the next project.... my turbo is coming off tomorrow and I will be sending it to PTE. It is leaking oil, and after posting another thread about it I found out that these types of oil restrictors basically starve the turbo and destroy them. So I'm gonna go ahead and get it inspected and rebuilt if necessary, then throw a proper restrictor fitting on there so I'll be all set.
Time for a new gauge pod on the dash. Previous owner located boost and AFR gauges, two I need to watch the most, in terrible spots. They are constantly blocked by the steering wheel or my hands.
Current AFR. Awful. Boost/vac. Even worse. New triple pod plan. The third gauge I plan to add oil temp at some point.
I've got a set for B series cable trans that I've never used. Let me know if you're interested via PM.
Thanks for pointing that out. I am not sure if I'd look at replacing the entire mount, or just the rubber pieces.
The car really is not driving that bad. I'm pretty happy with it. It seems like the problem is almost completely gone in the morning when it's chilly out, but presents itself a little more in the afternoon, after it's been sitting in the sun. Probably because this softens up not only the rubber mounts, but suspension bushings as well, and in general lets everything move around a bit more.
Overall it's enjoyable to drive about 95% of the time.
Had another no crank incident today. And I knew it was going to happen, I could feel it somehow. Of course it was in the Chipotle parking lot.
I had my multimeter and schematic with me, so I was prepared and started probing wires. It's in the starter signal wire circuit, somewhere after the starter relay. But to get at it I need to pull the wires out of their split loom and trace it thru the fuse box, to the firewall and into the engine bay. I just didnt have time to do all that when my wife was waiting for her burrito bowl, so I called it and push started to get home.
Once home, it cranked again fine. Plan is just to trace the whole signal wire circuit, every inch of wire and every connection. There's gotta be something loose somewhere.
On a lighter note, it was date night and I decided to take the wife for her first ride in the crx. Properly scared the **** out of her
I started pulling all the wiring apart to track down the issue. A little ways into it, I realized that by pulling the fuse box apart, with all of the stuff that's been altered, I was surely going to cause more problems by trying to do this.
On to plan B.
When the battery was moved, they ran the positive cable to the same terminal on the under hood fuse box as the starter power cable. So I checked and the power terminal on the starter always sees 12V. I don't think this is how it's supposed to be, but apparently it works.
The only thing the starter relay, clutch switch and fuse box are handling is the starter signal wire. I checked on the starter relay plug and both black/white wires were getting power when the key was turned to start, even with the clutch switch off.
So all I did was run a new wire from one of these plug pins to the starter signal terminal. It works fine, and I've bypassed the relay, clutch switch and all that other crap.
My only concern is whether this wire needs a fuse, but it shouldn't be an issue for draining the battery since it is only powered with the ignition switch.
My bigger concern is with the battery power straight to the starter, and whether that would cause a drain. I assume it doesn't because there is no grounding through the starter solenoid until it get the signal.
Any thoughts on this?
If this ever fails on me I'll just use the wire I ran and jump it straight to the battery hot terminal on the fuse box.
you shouldnt see any drain on the battery from the starter being permanently powered because turning the key in the ignition is what allows it to ground out and close the circuit just like you said. i've got my battery and positive cables hooked up the same if i understand you correctly - positive battery cable to the fusebox connection, and to the starter
you shouldnt see any drain on the battery from the starter being permanently powered because turning the key in the ignition is what allows it to ground out and close the circuit just like you said. i've got my battery and positive cables hooked up the same if i understand you correctly - positive battery cable to the fusebox connection, and to the starter
That's good to hear, and what I thought. I am feelin pretty good about this setup, will at least be easier to troubleshoot if any more problems occur.
Need this cranking issue to go away so I can focus on all the other projects I need to do....
Will probably start doing updates every Friday, since I take these afternoons off to work on the car. Here is the progress from today!
Got everything out of the way to get the turbo off (radiator, wg and dumptube, downpipe, etc. ). Also will be getting Skunk 2 half radiator and spal fan when I reassemble everything. Turbo ready to be sent out for a rebuild Started remounting my gauges. Didn't get too far since the wiring was a mess. Unfortunately I'll have to extend two of the harnesses to reach up to here. Gauge wiring pulled out.
good to see you're getting all the issues sorted, that gap with the engine mount bolt is crazy.
how is your exhaust clearance? have you got any pics of the system? i've just made up a 3" system for mine and had to raise the front of the car a little bit to gain some clearance, at least until i remove it and cut/weld to tuck up higher in that section
Sorry I missed this question before. Clearance is not great, they put the flex pipe right at the lowest point. The car is not lowered that much, per my taste anyway, and the exhaust is just about worn thru from scraping. There is maybe 4-5" of ground clearance. I'll get some pics next time it's on the ground.
The car is probably parked for the winter now, as I have too many things taken apart and too many ongoing projects to be able to finish up in time for any more driving this year.
I pulled the turbo and found out it is actually a Garrett t3/t04e 57 trim.
What I have in the works:
- Turbo rebuild for now, followed by a replacement with an STC Hunter when I have the funds.
- Skunk2 Alpha half rad
- Spal 12" puller fan if it'll fit
- Redo fan wiring to use the thermostat switch again, using new relay and inline fuse
- Remounting gauges to top of dash
- Fixing up some more wiring for starter, ignition and radio
- Removing front tranny mount, going to try running 3 mounts for now
- Moroso vented battery box
Thats all I can think of right now but there's probably more. I'm kinda glad it's winter, because now I can take my time and finish up these projects the way I really want to, not just rush so I can get more driving time in.
Ive thought about it more and my ultimate goal with this car will be to make a streetable car that is a beast at both autox and drags. Will probably take me a couple years to get it right, and will never be "finished" but that's the plan for now.
Re: 1991 CRX Turbo B18 project/build thread
