When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Had some nice test passes and was able to get some good data for the future. Car was making some jam and getting down for sure.
Lessons learned over the week- never trust an alignment "specialist" from Les Schwab. (Tried to kill me twice) first time I took it to them, they forgot to tighten the front UCA bolts......that was a scary minute on the freeway driving the "streetcar" back to the track. The next morning, had them tow it back to fix it and on the way back to the track this time, the rear lower control arm broke! (They backed out the threads so much when aligning the rear that it was literally clinging by a thread) thank god I decided to take the backroads to the track because when that arm dropped it was like I dropped an anchor. By some miracle it didn't eff up the rear and the car still aligned.
At the track the prep was solid and the DA was pretty tasty. Car saw 46psi with ease and wanted more....super impressed with the BW S400.
Car was moving and started breaking up a bit in 3rd, and ran out of gear in 4th so I got out of it early but lots of potential to go faster.
Not my best 60' in the car (1.56) but it was my best 330 and 1/8 and 1/8 mph by a bunch.
Last edited by Ron Burgandy; May 31, 2017 at 11:05 PM.
Reason: Updating.
raising the rear put more weight in the front, simple geometry and physics but there are other ways to do it as well but for my setup right now that's all I need to do.
I've got a good handle on geometry and physics but I still don't follow. The only weight that would transfer would be weight going over the center of the front pivot point. And even then only by fractions of a degree. I would be curious to see a before and after changing the rear ride height. Care to share your results one you're done?
I've got a good handle on geometry and physics but I still don't follow. The only weight that would transfer would be weight going over the center of the front pivot point. And even then only by fractions of a degree. I would be curious to see a before and after changing the rear ride height. Care to share your results one you're done?
I'll try and get a before and after next time I corner it.
But if you ever ever put a car on scales you can test it out- raise the rear right and the weight of the front left will be heavier.....visa versa.
I'll try and get a before and after next time I corner it.
But if you ever ever put a car on scales you can test it out- raise the rear right and the weight of the front left will be heavier.....visa versa.
Correct, you can adjust crossweight but the total front and rear weight will stay the same. When you lift the right rear you are taking weight off the left rear and right front. Just like you can't change the total weight of the left and right sides by adjusting the perches.
So I'm thinking about going with a bigger tire...... anyone have experience with the MH 25's?
Heard good things but how much more brutal is it on the transmission? I know SFWD got very popular in large part because guys were tired of breaking dog gears on a tall tire....
On a separate note and the more frustrating one; pulled my trans apart last week to inspect and to verify the gearing, only to find out that my final drive is 4.72 and is not 4.42 as I had originally been told it to be. I'm running a small tire so that would explain why I was running out of gear in Seattle a few weeks back.
car made 820/450 on last real dyno session. Since switching turbo, haven't had it on the rollers. Hard to tell how much power it's truly making with the final drive situation. I'm still out of gear early and unable to string out first and second long enough to get through the traps before the limiter. Car weighs about 2450 with me in it.
Originally Posted by ssmrico
good numbers
Thanks. Car is really ready for a breakthrough I feel but will be patient for now I guess.
car made 820/450 on last real dyno session. Since switching turbo, haven't had it on the rollers. Hard to tell how much power it's truly making with the final drive situation. I'm still out of gear early and unable to string out first and second long enough to get through the traps before the limiter. Car weighs about 2450 with me in it.
Thanks. Car is really ready for a breakthrough I feel but will be patient for now I guess.
Yeah, I think a few adjustments and you with get there.
Back from the grave- Still love HT and this build is still inching forward.
Since last post; I put a Haltech 2500 Elite in the car (it’s a capable system but jury still out on whether I like it) replaced fuel system (from 044’s) to magnafuel pro efi 750. Running one set of ID 2000’s on an ethanol blend. Have a T-1 trigger on the car now grabbed my first set of bead lock wheels (love the Kaizer look) replaced the Libertys 4.72 final with a 4.2 and upgraded to the new version ring and pinion. Also grabbed a billet case off Cole’s Smurphy.
Getting ready for first pass in the car in almost 2yrs this weekend in Denver at street car shootout. Car made good power on the dyno but was spinning and we decided to call it rather than use more straps, it’s tuned and I don’t care about a dyno number. Impressed with the turbo as it was 60% duty on the final pull and saw 36psi. It will make another 8-10psi for sure.
Nice! Might have to try and make it out to Bandimere Saturday, haven't been up yet this year, and thought I missed the street car event for some reason.
Did you fab your Tubular Rad support or buy it? NRG tech only offers an EG variant.
fabbed it up- pretty simple really, just rod, bent in same shape as radiator support.
Originally Posted by AZ_CIVIC
Looking good!
Thanks my man!
Originally Posted by snobordboy
Nice! Might have to try and make it out to Bandimere Saturday, haven't been up yet this year, and thought I missed the street car event for some reason.
if you do- swing by and say hello, we will have a couple cars from Utah there that should make some noise.
Originally Posted by flesh199
Your interior is perfect for a race car (Y)
Appreciate it. Trying to keep it stock looking inside without too much weight. The carpet only weighs 4lbs so I felt like it was worth it.
I am noticing more and more with setups like yours and AZ_civics that you guys are not running traction bars. Is this because the conversion to Spherical eliminates the need for them?
I am noticing more and more with setups like yours and AZ_civics that you guys are not running traction bars. Is this because the conversion to Spherical eliminates the need for them?
I don't run a traction bar or sway bar because I am going in a straight line LOL. But yeah I mean spherical LCA and Compliance bushing with solid mounts, MAKK brace and an NRG tubular subframe works for me.