sikefcrx89

iTrader: (1)

So you finally did swap from your EG subframe to a tubular one? First race car build and I want to do it right. Car will see limited street time (to/from a local car show or occasional 90 miles round trip just because) Probably best to keep an OEM style setup correct? Until I get to that tow/track only mentality?

AZ_CIVIC

iTrader: (1)

Yep I swapped it like 6 months ago and my car is also registered and insured, I hit the streets with it once and a while, nothing too far but around the neighborhood only because I run a 16v battery and no alternator LOL. If I didn't run a 1.9 gallon fuel tank and actually had alternator to charge my battery I would have no issues driving it here and there.

sikefcrx89

iTrader: (1)

Very nice to know.. Thanks!!

AllMtrRex

Off topic:
Which 16V are you using? I have had no luck out of XS power and antigravity brands. Both stopped charging after a few cycles.I used XS charger for the XS power battery and 1008 16V 15A Lithium Ion Racing Battery Charger for the Lithium antigravity battery. About $1300 wasted in batteries and chargers. No refunds or help from either company.

AZ_CIVIC

iTrader: (1)

Without looking I am just about 100% I am running the XS Power S1600, I've been using it for about 4 years and it is slowly going downhill. Some of that is probably my fault since I didn't charge it for months, as long as you charge it like once a month it should be good.

I did have the smaller XS power charger take a crap on my so I bought the boxer red box one and it has been good.

AllMtrRex

Yeah, I have the smaller charger which is still expensive.

Ron Burgandy

iTrader: (1)

Yep- spherical Compliance, lower control arm etc- traction bar becomes irrelevant.

I didn't put a tubular k-member in mine but did swap to the EG subframe which is lighter. I don’t see me switching for a while just don’t see the value.

Ron Burgandy

iTrader: (1)

Had the car out over the weekend and dealt with some issues getting the anti lag to shut off during the run. We had it set up to shut off once it read mph but found out that there was a small window from 0-1mph that if the clutch peddle (switching antilag on) was off and the car was in that 0-1mph range still it would bog.

We ended up having to run a separate relay and wire it all up a bit different. Should be solved but I’ll have to wait to make another pass to see.

AZ_CIVIC

iTrader: (1)

The biggest thing for me with the tubular k-member was I got a bit more room to maneuver around, it was 25 pounds lighter and that stupid welded nut broke that holds the lower LCA. I broke on both the driver side and then on the passenger side. For me at this point it's getting kind of crazy but I am at the point of my build trying to make every pound count.

I think once done with a couple more weight savings ideas my car will be down to maybe 2075 without me, maybe less.

sikefcrx89

iTrader: (1)

Would you please Update your thread with more pictures of current? So I can kind of see/compare what kind of treatment my EM1 is/will be in need of? I was going to restore the car,and ran across your build and like F-it I have needed race car for too long..lol

AZ_CIVIC

iTrader: (1)

Check this out.

https://honda-tech.com/forums/forced...3325048/page5/

sikefcrx89

iTrader: (1)

Subscribed.. Thanks!!

Ron Burgandy

iTrader: (1)

I have two 16v batteries- first was a XS D1600 and the small Xs charger- didn’t like the small charger as I wanted quicker charges between rounds so I bought the big XS charger- love it. I purchased a Kinetic battery (typically a car audio brand) and have been using it for the last couple events and it does well- a little bigger but I don’t mind the weight up front.

next project on my car will be repair the front end a bit (fenders and bumper getting tired so it will get some love) I’ll also be adding a weight plate up front; going with 1/2” 70x20 plate- will likely do something custom to mount it and I’d like it to be removable as well.