Indeed. It helps that I just did this not even a week ago. Plus, doing it in the garage with a tool cart and keeping everything organized makes a huge difference. Hopefully I'll have it back in and running by tonight.

 

Well, guys... I broke the damn thing. I decided to install the top cover by myself. I must've pinched the snap ring with the bearing. I thought as I snugged it the ring was in place, but it was not. I crushed the countershaft bearing so I'm back to square one. I'm beginning to think I bought this car for the sole purpose of working on something; I haven't even put a whole tank of gas through it in a month. This is all on me... If I had installed the damn reverse idler gear correctly in the first place, I wouldn't be in this situation. Ugh! So another bearing is on the way (should be here Thursday), and I'm taking it to work to let the professionals try and get the inner race of that bearing off the shaft without destroying the other bearing. It just so happens that the other bearing has been discontinued for some time and isn't available anywhere, as far as I can tell.

 

There's a really easy way to get that bearing off. Remove the main and counter shaft assemblies, remove the coutershaft nut, Put on a pair of work gloves, turn the shaft so it's upside down, holding the shaft around 1st and 2nd gear bring the whole thing down hard on a block of hardwood. It may take a few attempts but the bearings (and gears) will slide right off.

If you need the bearing underneath use 91102-PLW-003, it's got identical dimensions.

Also, you should probably order a new lock ring.

 

That's kinda crappy. Why are the fits so loose? Most bearings like that have a shrink fit of a few thousands of an inch...

I was advised by a few people to just replace the trans. Yeah, I could have done that and maybe saved a few bucks... but now I'm to the point where I've spent that much in parts (not even taking into account the time I've spent on this thing) that it's about the principle... This time was just a stupid mistake and I'm not giving up. Damn car.

 

Not loose, its just how some folks have removed it. Works, no issues, everyone is happy after the rebuild.

 

Check with syncrotech to see what they have. I'd suggest calling, **** gets done faster.

 

They're not that loose, it's still a pretty decent press fit, plus the nut squeezes the inner race the other way. I have yet to see one spin on the shaft and I have taken apart quite a few of these things. Also I've used that removal method for all of the ones I've done. I have 20 ton press but using a block of hardwood is a lot quicker.

That was good advice a decade ago. Now almost every used transmission you get needs something anyway.

 

That's crazy. I'm used to having to heat bearings (the larger ones) or using a press to remove them. Usually when you're able to knock them off, they're toast haha. I'll give it a shot when the bearing comes in.
I'm with ya, I wouldn't want to pull a used one that ends up needing the same thing as this one. Like I said, at this point it's the principle of the thing.

 

You're now in my territory, bud.



Sorry you had problems with the rebuild. I second contacting Syncrotech. I've also had great customer service with Gearspeed.

 

If I hadn't already spent this much on parts (and time) I would be all for buying a new one. At this point, I'm too far in and I refuse to let this thing whip my ***. I've fixed much more complicated (and expensive) pieces of equipment in my career. I will beat this.

 

 

If you have the hole piece, the cast aluminum is a great candidate for JB weld.

One of the mounting bolts was over tightened on one of my DX trannys and it cracked a piece much like that inside the tranny case. Fortunately for me, it was still barely attached and didn't fall into the gears.

None the less, I cleaned the mating surfaces with non-chlorinate brake kleen and then use JB Weld standard 2 part epoxy to put the piece back into place after I had snapped it off merely by pressing on it when I noticed it.

Drove that tranny for over 2 years and never an issue so I know the regular JB weld makes a super strong bond with the cast aluminum in it's natural rough state. Great for case repair for non stress areas. Might work on stress areas to but less confident with that thought.

@LiterCola Respect for your determination and steadfastness to get it fixed.

Cheers and best of luck.

 

Thanks, TomCat. I picked up a replacement case for... $30? It was a long time and many other debacles ago.

 

1st and 2nd gear kind of act as a slide hammer, but they're hitting the inner races so there's no damage to the bearings removing them this way.

 

My new countershaft bearing should be here tonight (And I picked up my new snap ring yesterday), so hopefully by tomorrow afternoon I can have the trans back together, or at least ready to go back together. If all goes well, the car will be running tomorrow night.

 

 

Word up.

 

Alright guys, I'm about to light this damn car on fire. Got the trans back together with the help of some of the guys at work. Everything went swimmingly. Got home, took a nap, put the car back together. Everything is peach. And THEN, I go to start the car. It cranks fine, but won't start. I figured I forgot to plug something in, so I looked around. Everything looks normal. I jumped the service connector to see if any codes were present. Nothing. But the SRS light is blinking constantly. I smell fuel, but the bitch won't fire. I'm tired and not really willing to dig any further. Any ideas?

 

I should add that the other day I replaced the o ring on the distributor. The new o ring leaked also so I put a little bit of sealant on it. That made it pretty difficult to reinstall the distributor. Could I possibly have bound something up when tightening it back up? I scribed a line where it was originally and went back to the same spot. Doesn't make any god damn sense.

 

That 2 pronged drive that goes into the end of the cam is offset a little to one side. If you had a hard time reinstalling the distributor chances are you have it 180° out.

 

Ya know what? I seem to remember turning it s couple times while the dizzy was out of the car. Don't ask why; I just tinker with stuff. For Christ sake, I took our carpet cleaner apart to see how it worked.

 

It's alive! Flipped the dizzy rotor and everything is good! Now, I just have to reapply my sealant so it stops leaking. How does a brand new o ring leak? Lame. Other than that, no leaks or anything. Thanks for all the help, guys. I'm sure I'll be posting another thread soon; something else will break soon haha

 

Wrong o-ring or damage to the metal parts. For example, if you gouged the bottom of the groove on the distributor while removing the old o-ring, it will leak.

Leak could also be from a nearby part like the valve cover gasket or the VTEC solenoid.

 

its definitely that o ring. It was leaking before, and when I pulled the dizzy oil ran out from behind it. I put some copper RTV on the o-ring and reinstalled. Unfortunately, the car didn't run until I removed the dizzy again, this screwing up the sealant. It's a pretty substantial leak too.

 

sure its the correct seal? it shouldnt depend on rtv to seal.