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I should have my new fuel injector o-rings tonight. I went to four different autoparts stores last night to try and buy them but they were all out of stock. O'Reilly's had the best price and they'd be in the next day (today). I wasn't upset that I didn't get to work in single degree temps last night.
I should have my new fuel injector o-rings tonight. I went to four different autoparts stores last night to try and buy them but they were all out of stock. O'Reilly's had the best price and they'd be in the next day (today). I wasn't upset that I didn't get to work in single degree temps last night.
Thanks, Cao. Post up progress when you're working.
I didn't get much done today. I chased down one of the two things that I need to look into.
1. My cooling fan wasn't turning on.
2. My ECT datalog is reading really low.
1. Jumped the fan and the motor works so I knew it was something in the circuit. Looked up the circuit diagram and it's a super simple circuit with one relay and one switch. Decided to test the relay since it was the most accessible. Bad relay! (Pics below). There's no continuity between the coil terminals.
2. Didn't get around to diagnoisning the ECT signal problem.
I'm going to try and get out tonight and clean the engine and transmission up to help check if I've fixed my leaks.
I also need to check the health of my ECT system. When I drove around the block, coolant temps stayed really low. Maybe I didn't let the car warm up enough and everything is ok but I might as well make sure while the weather is keeping the car in the garage.
There's no reason for this thread to drop to the second page while it's still on going. Friggin' troll accounts creating new threads. Damn you GDD!
I'm going to try and get out tonight and clean the engine and transmission up to help check if I've fixed my leaks.
I also need to check the health of my ECT system. When I drove around the block, coolant temps stayed really low. Maybe I didn't let the car warm up enough and everything is ok but I might as well make sure while the weather is keeping the car in the garage.
There's no reason for this thread to drop to the second page while it's still on going. Friggin' troll accounts creating new threads. Damn you GDD!
Ha, I don't even know what page my thread is on. Winter weather + working outside = no fun...
Just had a nice relaxing Saturday morning after a spooky Friday 13th watching gore flicks. About to head back out to see what I can see. I need to recheck the following locations.
^^^^From when I removed my FITV. I don't have an after shot but I took it apart and hosed it down with Carb Cleaner.
Last edited by CX-Adam; Jan 14, 2017 at 08:09 AM.
Reason: pictures were yuuuuge
New Cooling Fan Relay
Primed the fuel pump and got out to check for leaks BEFORE turning the ignition. Smelled fuel and found this:
The culprit. I swear this was tight when I replaced the fuel filter but it must not have been tight enough.
Ran the car for a bit to bleed the cooling system. So, I was only looking at the ECT. It wasn't until AFTER I turned the car off that I noticed my AFR was fucked...
Everything that's wrong:
The idle is still way to ******* high
AF creeped up. Why the **** would it do that?
Leaks like a ******* sieve.
I turned the car off before the ECT got to 196*F....
Videos:
I've no idea why my AF got so lean. I'm assuming Hondata is displaying the Air/Fuel Ratio as 1.0 being Stoichiometric. But, having no experience, I don't know.
Why the **** is the distributor side of my engine leaking so much ******* oil? It's a new o-ring on the distributor and I cleaned both surfaces really well. There's no oil under the VTEC solenoid housing on the transmission case so I don't think that's the source. My sensors below the distributor are tight. What the ****...
I H8 leaks!
Sorry to hear about these problems. I have no idea how Hondatat works, but I thought stoic is displayed as ~1.4?
Could the distributor o-ring be leaking due to incorrect crank-case ventilation?
These are probably lame suggestions, but I feel your struggle man!
I pulled the distributor and inspected it and the cylinder head for the source of my leak. I noticed that there was no oil on the distributor housing or on the machined sides of the ylinder head around the opening. Looking at the lower mounting bolt hole, I noticed oil in the threads and thought that, maybe, there was some sort of leak through them but, I was leaking a lot of oil. There was no way that much would leak around threads. I also noticed some oil on top of the boss. The only thing above it was the plug. It wasn't even finger tight...
I hope you don't mind me busting your ***** a bit. Glad it's an easy fix anyways.
Dude, I haven't ridden hardly at all and it sucks. Just unmotivated to ride solo in these parts, and school always *** with my "off" schedules I make. I need to just suck it up and ride the ole MTB just to keep my head clear, but its such a production these days.
If it sounds like I'm making excuses, its because I am. I shouldn't be a fat bitch, but that's what fits these days...
Not at all. In fact, you could stand to step your game up.
I've been indoors on the trainer, lately. The freeze thaw cycling we're going through means the trails are either ice or mud and the roads are all salt. The wife got me a nice fluid trainer and I tossed a training tire on her CX bike so we're now able to spin alongside each other while watching YouTube vids or Netflix.
No. The Rad. overflow tank is clean as can be and the top of the rad. is clean. ShinsenTuner thinks its from the short run times and from sitting so much. So does my old man. So, I think they're right. Like I said, I need to drop the pan to fix the pan gasket so I'll confirm once I do that. Hopefully tomorrow.
Could very well be that. Only when it has run long enough to get up to temperature should that stuff should boil off and escape via the VC breather. Assuming its just condensate from sitting of course.
Check vacuum and TB for high idle problems. I've never had a bad IACV cause high idle before (but definitely the idle surge of rage). My high idling was always vacuum related.
Re: My 95 Civic CX hatch build
I shouldn't be a fat bitch, but that's what fits these days...
