I dig! Have you had a chance to see if your IAT's look better compared to your old heat exchanger yet?

 

I wasn't using a heat exchanger yet - this is to go with the LHT air to water cooler.

I'll check iat's though for sure.

 

Ugh, I'm confused on a few things. It's been so long since I've worked on the car I've forgotten what I've read.

Car: 95 Civic CX
Engine: Integra GSR (I think it's a 94-95 because the oil pump didn't have a CKF sensor attachment.)
ECU: P28 with Hondata S300 and a base tune from Phearable (but I told them it was a 1996 engine)

1. When I bought by engine, it had a Skunk 2 Intake Manifold and the previous owner had thrown away the IAB canister and IAB valve. The JRSC instructions say I need to plug it into the wiring harness but leave the vacuum line connections open. Do I need to go to the pick-and-pull and find an IAB Valve? Can I use any Honda IAB Valve. I know the OBDI and OBDII GSRs have different Part Numbers. (It's going to be a bitch to install because the plug is tucked up against the water piper between the alternator and the supercharger...)
2. I've got two valve cover fittings running to a catch can and I've removed the black box (oil separator box) and plugged it's openings. I'm debating on whether or not I should reinstall the box or, at least, run an AN line from where I have the freeze plug to the bottom of the catch can. Thoughts?
3. I've got the Purge Cut Solenoid valve in my hand. I think I need to connect the 90 degree hose to the top of the charcoal canister and the bottom to one of the barbs on the throttle body. That's the OBDI setup. Does that sound right? Would it matter that I told Phearable that I had an OBDII engine?

 

Cracked ringlands on oem pistons is pretty common if there was detonation.
Sometimes you can't tell there is anything wrong with the piston until you pull the rings off and then a chunk of ringland falls out.
(A conpression test will tell you that a cylinder is very low or has no compression for that cylinder. )

I've used topline oem replacement pistons on an itr rebuilt with vortech blower before.

Easy and cheap.

 

1) NOPE. The P28 doesn't have the circuitry for the IAB or Knock sensors, so wiring them would be pointless. You will NOT get codes for those two sensors as long as you are using a P28 ECU.
2) You will not be creating enough crank case pressure at JRSC power levels to really see significant gains by using an external breather box... but since you have it, it is OK to use it. Plumbing the drain back into the freeze plug will likely eliminate draining the catch can every so often.
3) Purge Cut Solenoid: IN at the bottom from the manifold (you could use one of the two ports on the "S" tube) and OUT the side and over to the charcoal canister. OBD-1 or OBD-2... it makes little difference.

You have a basemap... that is good to start the car, drive it around to make sure there are no leaks or Check-Engine-Lights. Do NOT rely on this tune for full throttle operation. Go to a tuner and get the car tuned before you beat on it.

 

My fault, for some reason I thought you already had that on your setup.

 

I have had the parts for a while, just haven't got them all installed yet.

 

Thanks for the response, JR.

I'll see if it throws a code without the IAB installed. If it does, I'll see if I can disable it in the tune.

Remaining to-dos:
1. Install my battery
2. Power the LHT Water pump and fill system with water/coolant/wetter (I need to figure this out)
3. Buy and fill engine with break-in oil
4. Buy and fill tank with gas. Prime fuel system.
5. Add coolant
6. Add trans fluid
7. Install ECU
8. Double check suspension and engine mount bolts
9. Install seats
10. Run for 5 to 10 minutes. Check for leaks.
11. Mount new tires and install the wheels.
12. Trailer to tuner for break-in.
13. Change oil

 

If i could recommend a product for your water pump, i found this little multifunction timer relay which i just think is brilliant.

Multi-Functional 12V Time Delay Relay (Timer) 10 Amp [TMR2-12] - $19.95 : 3rd Brake Flasher Web Site

I was trying to figure out how to wire the pump in without it being on a switch, and without it running while the car is starting (cranking over). Now, using that relay, ive wired it to use the fuel pump hot wire as a signal and i've programmed it to wait 10 seconds before turning the water pump on. So if you leave it on IGN2 the water pump will turn on 10 seconds after the fuel pump has primed the rail, or ten seconds after the start condition.

It's simple to use, the instructions take a bit to get your head around but it seems to work great. There's a 5amp and a 10amp version, but i chose to run a separate power wire to the pump (on its on relay, triggered by that timer) for piece of mind.

 

Why didn't you want the pump running while the car was starting?

 

amp draw.

Some of us run very small lightweight racing batteries:

http://shoraipower.com/lfx18l1-bs12-p94

​​​​​​​Any extra draw makes it harder to start the motor.

 

Pretty much, I just don't like the idea of running accessories while the car is cranking.

 

Thanks, sp33. I placed an order.

I'm having some trouble getting the car to start. Maybe someone can enlighten me?

'95 Civic CX with 1995 Integra GSR Engine and JRSC System. Everything has been out of the car and disassembled since it last ran. ECU had an S300 installed by Phearable. It worked before the S300 was installed and I was just running the swap. Running RC440 injectors.

What works:
The Fuel Pump Works
The PGM-FI Relay Works
I have spark in all four plugs.
The battery is brand new.

What Doesn't:
My injectors aren't getting constant voltage (tested with voltmeter)

Possible Causes:
I've checked my grounds but will check again.
I've unplugged my injector clips and reinstalled.
I'll re-check the engine-to-cabin harness connectors.
I do not have an IAB valve plugged into the engine harness. I don't know if that matters but, checking my receipt, I thought I had an OBDII GSR engine when I sent my ECU to Phearable. Is it possible the base map tune is looking for something that doesn't exist? Like, the IAB valve?

Anyone have anything else I should check? Maybe some tips on navigating the Hondata software?

 

I run a pc680 Odyssey with K/O fan, never had an issue

That's a crazy lightweight battery. 2 1/2 lbs and still has 270 CCA> The PC680 is like 15 lbs and only 170 CCA

 

any ideas on what i can do for my build to make more power?

thx for your time

 

So i'm starting to plan my next car.
I used to have an eg with a sohc jrsc.
made alil under 180whp.

I want to do another eg in the near future but go further.
flared feners and big tires, and a b20b jrsc awd system.

what do you think? I'm very sound sensitive which is why I liked the sohc.
and I would stay that way but you can't mate the crv transmission to a sohc.
Turbo's kinda bore me so I want to stick with jrsc.
any idea's what kind of power I can squeeze out of it nonvtec?

 

Hey guys! So two things:

1) I've read that GSR exhaust camshafts are better for ITRs so that the charge will have more time to build up in the cylinder head. Would a B17 GSR camshaft do or would I need one off a B18C1 ?
2) I'm deciding between an Exedy Stage 1 or Stage 2 clutch kit but I need to know if Stage 1 will suffice.

Okay here's my planned setup

Stock B18C5
DC 4-1 Ceramics
K&N E-2427 filter (maybe an Icebox later)
LHT Intercooler with heat exchanger
Hondata gasket
MVM 3.8 Snout Pulley
MVM Stepper Pulley
AEM Water/Meth injection
RC 440cc injectors
S300
B&M FPR
Walbro 255 fuel pump

Considering these options
* ITR but considering GS-R or LS Crank Pulley (not looking to go B20 since it will overwork my AC and Alternator)
* GSR exhaust camshaft (from B17 or B18C1)



Setup is still getting pieced together but I wanted to future proof it now since I need to replace the clutch. I'm hoping for 11 psi but am told LHT intercooler will remove about 1ish psi from the equation.

 

Veris is the user on here that looked into cam selection. He's a lot of information no his site index. He recommends the B18C1 exhaust cam.

 

Comparing the PSI of a non-LHT JRSC to a JRSC with the LHT mod. means nothing.

The LHT mod. increases the density of air in the manifold by lowering the temperature and thus allowing more air into the manifold.

I had problems with my LHT mod. Nothing that couldn't be overcome. I was lucky to have a friend with access to a mill so that I could get my fuel rail to fit.

 

What kind of problems did you run into?

 

I sent mine back twice (from Australia), and after it didn't fit when i received it the final time i just modified things by myself. Basically everything that bolts on doesn't fit anymore. Fuel rail, FPR, IAT sensor, the S tube didn't even bolt on to the intake manifold...

Nothing a bunch of time and modifying wont fix, but if i wanted to modify something, i would've just installed the cores myself.

Also the intake manifold was full of aluminium swarf which i've heard happen to a few people.

 

My build is in my sig...

In short: 1) Fuel rail didn't fit and 2) LAM tubes extend really far into the side ports.

I didn't think too return the manifold because it was years after I ordered when I finally got around to assembling everything. I modified my fuel rail to fit. I said "**** it" to the LAM tubes extended too far into the side boxes.

 

Also, just to be clear, I'm not saying don't do it. I'm just advising you as to what to expect. Going the LHT route is extending into a whole different realm of modification where you're expected to now how to add and remove metal. Not just how to turn a wrench.

 

Wasn't it the camshafts and not the cams? Also, what kind of gains can I expect from using GSR camshafts? Is it worth the effort ?


Ah I see. I guess I don't have to worry about all that since I am getting it off another member who already had it running on his motor.

 

Yeah i was just reflecting on my own experiences.