Okay, so after figuring out how to power my fuel pump and ECU in another thread, the car would start but shut off right away. Throttle input (flooring it) would keep it alive for a few seconds longer, but as soon as I let off the gas the car would die.

So, I decide to finish up the vacuum lines that were missing when I got the swap. Namely, the line that goes from the Evap Purge Control Solenoid to the Evap Canister and the line that goes from the valve cover to the intake hose. To get the right diameter from the parts store, I removed the brake master cylinder's hose that goes to the intake manifold as well as the line going from the Evap purge solenoid to the intake manifold.

I reconnected everything and now the car won't start at all. Fuel pump primes, main relay clicks, CEL comes on with the key on(ii), but no spark. I tested the ignition coil and it passes, I replaced the plugs thinking that the motor could be flooded, but no luck.

The car is a SOHC OBD2B car, so I did have to splice the larger distributor plug into the harness so my attention is focused on that right now. I've tested the black and yellow power wire for continuity to connector C101 and it is getting power

however I'm not able to find specifics on how to test the rest of the pins other than that the "go to the ckp, tdc, and cyp sensors". Anyone have a more definitive solution for that? Also, what other tests could I be performing? I disconnected the MAP and IAT sensors to install one of the vacuum hoses but I reconnected them. I also undid everything that I'd done as far as vacuum hoses and it won't start again.

 

Back up and give more details on the diagnostics done. How did you test for spark?

 

Spark plug grounded on the valve cover bolt.

 

Make sure the distributor shaft rotates, i.e. timing belt not stripped.

Cranking or running the engine with a spark wire completely disconnected is prone to blow the coil. Such a coil will pass the infamous but mostly useless ohmmeter test but will only make weak yellow sparks that seldom make it to the plugs. Test by cranking with the cap off and a grounded test wire held near the coil output. You should see strong blue sparks. Yellow sparks that only jump 1/8 inch or so is 100% certain that the coil needs to be replaced and be careful of open-circuit firing in the future.

Disconnect battery, unplug ECU and ohm test the distributor sensors all the way back through the wiring from the ECU plugs (i.e. leave distributor plugged in). This will test that the wiring is not broken though the sensors could still be wired in the wrong polarity or order.

 

This is a misconception due to the fact that most people do the coil ohm testing incorrectly. When done correctly, ohm testing will identify most bad coils.

 

thanks for the detailed reply. I'm a very visual learner...do you have a picture of what I should be doing with the grounded test wire and the coil output? I know that the output voltage from the coil should be avoided if at all possible, so hoping to do this test on the first try with no trips to the ER.

 

What is correct diagnostic for coils?

This?

 

The most common error is failing to measure the internal resistance of the multimeter and to subtract this reading from the primary coil reading.

https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-...blems-2919450/

 

I like how you ******* went off topic and alienated a guy in his own thread with your ohm testing jibber jabber. I bet he's already solved his problem by going to another forum.