whats up guys so I have a 96 civic coupe doubt it makes a difference but it has an ls swap and I got the car a couple months ago and oddly enough when i drove it home the passenger window was rolled down and I got home rolled it up and next day I went and rolled it down and it just wouldnt work so thinking it was the motor i replaced motor and regulator and with the new window regulator the window came in the ddown positon so rolled it up but for some reason it will not roll down, checked fuses and the switch its self i swapped with a buddy's and continued to do the same thing i can hear the motor kick on when i try to rolled it up but nothing when i try to roll it down? any idea would be greatly appreciated. thanks

update: the drivers side control switch does not work at all for passenger side so it won't even power the window up and I checked the two wires running to the motor with a light probe, the blue/red has power up and down and the blue/white has power up but not down.

 

Why replace expensive parts unnecessarily when you can instead buy an inexpensive multimeter (tool) that will help you actually identify the problem?

Start by looking for a broken wire in the right and left door jamb connectors.

Same or different problem when using either the driver or passenger switch?

 

the drivers side door switch does not work at all for controlling that window, will not even roll up

 

As mentioned check wiring in the door boots, it is common for leads to break in the boot, especially the drivers door boot, [as it is opened/closed the most.

Caution, do not assume wiring is good because you do not see a broken wire, often the wire strands inside the insulation will break but the insulation will not, to find a broken lead, [inside the insulation] is pull on each lead and if it "stretches" the wire strands inside the insulation are broken where the wire stretches.

With that said another common problem when window works in one direction but not the other is the switch is bad.

Power windows are "polarity reversing ground at rest" both leads going to the motor are grounds when switch is at rest, rocking the switch in one or the other direction will "lift" the ground on one of the leads and supply 12V+ to that lead, one lead stays grounded the other becomes 12V+ and window rolls in one direction, rock the switch the other way and the ground is lifted off the other lead and 12V+ is supplied to that lead, window rolls in other direction.

Simple way to test the switch is with a 12V test light, test light ground clip goes to one of the motor leads and test light probe to other lead, if switch is good the test light will light up when rocked in either direction ,
in your case it would be the blue/red and blue/white, [pass. side] and red/yellow and red/blue, [drivers side].

If it is the switch, they can be opened and the contacts cleaned, [in most cases ]. 94

 

Edit your first post to mention the different results for the two switches.

The light gray highlighted wire is almost surely broken in one of the two door jamb connectors.

 

x2 on door wiring. Found the same issue on my girlfriend's 96 LX. Just soldered the damn harness directly together on both doors and fed them back through. I figured it out by wiggling the harness while my friend held the switch down and the windows would randomly work.

 

****** awesome. Did she give you head?

 

 

where is the green plug you found the wires were pulled out of?

 

Please carefully read all posts in your thread.

Also see post #5. The broken wire will be Blu/Yel in color, just like the broken wire shown in the first picture of post #6.

 

So i swapped a buddy's passenger side switch and it continued to do it but from that diagram it seems likely it could be the drivers side main switch ?

 

You have the information you need. Don't let reading comprehension defeat you. Good luck.

Locked.