the ect sensor under distributor was not wired secure enough the continuity was here and there so i redid it

compared 3 ect sensors they are all about the same reading at room temps one it little higher
--- at night in driveway idle fan kicking on and off shut off and checked sensor alone reading in block i read with multimeter ohms resistance 200 after sitting awhile maybe 1 or 2 hours or so or more @ about 85-degreeout side block slightly warm 12000 or 1.2 depending on your multimeter setting i verify 5volt to harness with key on engine off at plug also

----i would think during the day cause its 85degrees outside at night and 110+ during the day - that 200 reading from multimeter may hit 0 and make the car go bonkers thinking its over heating ? but single wire dash temp never goes above 1/2 way ??

will update if this has any change or outcome

 

Rule out the basics before moving to more complex possibilities.

Perform idle adjust procedure EXACTLY as described in the diagram below.

Here's a wide selection of inexpensive, non-contact tachometers.

https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_s...act+tachometer

 

ok i will buy a tachometer if this next idea doesnt fix it ------------

i drove right now till it slighty started acting up
block before starting reads a warm 845 off the ect
block after pull over problem started reading 190

190 to my concern is too low it should mean im over 200degrees and the fan is not kicking on soon enough i believe ... i think my system is trying to save itself from overheating by using the eld system to cut voltage and its leaning out or whatever my timing or idle or somthing

i let sit for a min till i saw 225 on the multimeter because @ 237off the multimeter i beleive i should be @ 197degrees or so

so i start it up blast the heater on high and it seems to be not very much better but not continuing to drag down ---

i need to replace the ect the coolant switch and refill with green fluid as my fluid is slighty a tinge green not soo much super green


if not i will buy the tach RONJ

 

Honda engines run on the cool side. In addition, an abnormally low ECT reading would cause a high idle not a low one.

I hope this was a typo.

 

why would the ect reading being low make the car idle faster wouldnt that mean the car is seeing itself as very hot why would a car up its idle if it was over heating ?

ohms right now show 291 and its been sitting in the shade for 35min with the hood open --
and that was no typo thats the ohm reading i stated above before i started it this morning at 9:25am


doesnt lower ohm mean hotter engine
and i read online i should not have a variation of more then 200some say 300 ohms and i had a what 700ohm difference from cold start to idle problem 20 mins later


when i said the reading was 190 i didnt mean degrees i ment the ohms were low showing 190 ohms and 845ohms

 

200-400 Ohms is good for a fully warmed up engine.

 

awe man so u dont think a reading of say 180ohm on the ect sensor is bad ?..... what if the fan doesnt turn on enough cause they seem to take thier sweet time but do come on but only for like 15 sec maybe thats causing it cause RonJ when this does happen its not just a low idle its really putt putting hard i was hoping i was on to somthing here that it was freaking out thinking it was overheating .........

---well ill get a tach later then this car is making my toolbox bigger

 

The only Ohm reading that is interpretable is when the engine is fully warmed up. If you get variable readings under this specific condition, bleed the cooling system and try again.

https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-.../#post38664177

Can you give more precise details?

There's no overheating on the temp gauge, right? Does the temp gauge seem to work properly?

 

i dont beleive the single ware dash temp reading now - but i did ground the wire and the needle went to max right away it was kinda of fun to do with my pushbutton

running good --- rythmic pattern of puttering
running nasty idle sound more like a old time hit and mis motor like puff puff wheesh chug puff puff wheese chug sounds horribly wrong

i went i got rad fluid waiting for it to cool down im going to do a flush

just got back from driving with the heater on max omg that was super brutal
ohm reading after 5 blocks driving 225ohms with heater fan on max car running nicely idle perfect half a notch under 1000rpm or so
let heater off and when i parked i felt it start to happen and ohm read 213ohms idle slightly lower but not terrible yet
car craps out again reading shows below 200 exhuast sounds wrong now and idle is nearly sitting on the 1st notch idk 300rpm

 

rebleed,

 

^^^^^
This is exactly where I was at when I posted up the last page I did and it sounds to me like we are still skipping all over the place and not doing this exact thing in the exact way the FSM states to do it.

Until this is done precisely how the FSM states to do it, there is no point doing any other thing. Just like the page I posted, very first step is to follow this idle setting procedure then move onto other things.

This is also why I refrained from providing any more pages or ideas after you informed me you have the manual and still, by your actions of posts, continually evaded following this procedure precisely.

Until this Step 1 is done, there is no step 2. Unfortunate, but true.

 

ok i used someones light i think i set it right 830rpm was the end result
parked on a hill and bleed it for what felt like forever i started giving it tiny revs like maybe idk 1500 rpm or so after 30mins thinking this should get the fan to kick on more often and everytime after a min or so i would see tiny tiny micro bubbles and what looked like when you swish or shake clear soda around i think i have a bad head gasket ? or the beginning of one ??

 

Yes it takes a while for the fan to kick in.

 

You obviously are not following instructions. This thread seems like a lost cause.

 

im not trying to be hard headed ronj im sorry i really do want help my apologies

i paid someone to set it correctly this morning and the guy showed me something

he removed the gas cap and the idle improved ??

 

checked purge connector to car
+ yellow wire to red wire - and i get 0volts key on engine off also and with engine on cold and with warmed up ?
i tested + to car body and got 12ishvolts ?? then i tested the -ground to the car body that is also ground and it show 5volt s???how can i get 5volts by grounding - to the car body - that makes no sense to me helms even says to check pin a20 at ecu for ground to short but would that give me 5volts lol i go to look at pina20 on ecu and i see a solid red wire .....there are two spots or 3 i see someone tapped into ground wire one of what looks like its tied to the o2 white wire on the last ecu connector ??

 

You can Mark as solved purge control solenoid and wiring broke and broken check valve whatever the electrical issue is the car is totally fine if the canister hose is disconnected regardless of my fubar wiring will fix wiring of soli kid or investigate why it's not working properly