Have 92 hatch current main relay has two wires spliced pump runs constantly.. I can remove the splice and install new relay and fuel pump doesn't pump..

 

Maybe bad ECU fuel pump priming circuit capacitors.

Try another ECU.

 

Sorry to ask the dumb question but which ecu's would be compatible..Car is a 92 hatch.. Auto to manual swap.. D16y8

 

I'm assuming you have a OBD 1 ECU, probably a P 28 that may have been converted from a auto P28 to a manual P28. Look for a label on the side of the ECU.

If it's a P28 just get another one at a junkyard for a manual civic.

 

Kind of depends on what two wires are "spliced" ?

Wire colors and or pin locations, pix would help. 94

 

Will get pics and more info in a few when I get home

Wires that are spliced are green/yellow and black.. Pins 8 and 2

 

Main relay pins 2 and 8 are spliced:




If you measure battery voltage at ECU connector pins A25 and B1 and continuity to body ground at ECU connector pins A26 and B2, then replace your ECU.

 

Thanks RonJ the above method tested exactly as you said.. Pulled ecu and removed cover to perfectly see burnt spot on the board

 

Definitely replace the ECU.

I'll PM you about your blown ECU. Is it a P05 or P06?

 

 

Did somebody swap in a D16Z6 engine?

Edit: I see you have a D16Y8 swap.

 

Its a d16y8

 

gotcha

 

Yes sir I sure do appreciate any and all help..

 

I traded for a 92 hatch a few weeks back.. Car started I drove it had slight low end hesitation and idled up and down.. Got car home and noticed fuel pump wasn't priming and was running constantly when I key on ignition pulled down relay to see spliced wires undone splice tried new relay pump wouldn't run at all.. Came to find out the prime circuit was burnt up in ecu.. Got another ecu key on ignition pump primes once car starts idles about 2 seconds and dies.. Ran a test light to pump and I'm keeping power at pump until it dies the it primes again.. Going to test fuel pressure later but I'm at a loss with the thing

 

Post the CEL codes.

 

Not sure of code list but I got one long(10) then it went 1 long 9 fast(19)

 

Can you post a video of the CEL blinking the codes? Has the engine been swapped or is it stock (D15B8)?

Code 19 would be thrown if you are using an auto ECU with the manual transmission. There's a way to convert the ECU. Do a Google search.

 

I replace iat sensor and all I get now is code 19.. D16y8 motor and manual trans..z6 Manifold.. p28 ecu

 

Triple check for swapped sensor connectors (by connector wire colors). Post pics if you need help. This is the most common cause of blown ECUs following a swap, and will also make the engine run like crap.

 

Map

Tps

Iat sensor

Not sure what the sensor is called has vaccum line on it mounted on firewall



Iacv

 

Anything else I need to snap a pic of?

 

MAP and TPS may be swapped.

The unidentified firewall 3-wire connector is for the MAP sensor.

The Yel/Blk and Red wire connector is for the EVAP system. Where is it connected?

The ECT sensor is not shown.

(TA = IAT, TW = ECT, throttle angle = TPS)

 

Map tps and the fire wall sensor are in fact mixed up

Ect is red/white green/white

 

Unplug your ECU, and hope you haven't already blown the new one.

Triple check ALL sensor connectors before you reconnect the ECU connectors. See diagrams I posted.

Good luck.

(Aside: Do plan on keeping the blown ECU?)

That's fine. See diagrams.