Please spare my manifold, for I have forsaken you.

 

Haha. Better then the welded stuff. Hope it works out.

 

Thanks buddy. It will be gone soon.....hopefully lol

 

That feed line looks like it has collapsed from kinking. good thing it's oversized, I guess.
Is it also kinked at the tee from sending unit?

 

Why not just turn the fitting into the block so its not?

 

yeah looks like it. whole motor setup will be changing very soon *fingers crossed*. will do it the feed line correctly this time by using a sandwich plate.

With the kinks and all, it still sent too much oil to the turbo... see early turbo pics.

 

Actually no. The link wouldn't cause too much oil, if anything, it would reduce it. You have to much oil because you don't have the proper oil restrictor . Get rid of that oil feed flange the line is connected to, and get the proper restrictor for your oil feed line size.

You also don't need a sandwich plate. Just rotate the oil block fitting so that there is slack to the line. It doesn't have to be vertical unlike the turbo chra itself.

 

I have the correct restrictor on now of course. I was just saying the kink wasnt really causing a problem at the time.

I want to go with the with the sandwich plate this go around because the new motor is LSVTEC so it utilizes the plate already... and nothing wrong with giving the turbo filter oil...

 

99% of sandwich plates don't filter the oil at all. they're just integrated to work with the oil filter, but you don't get acutal "filtered" oil that's going into the feed line. Big misconception.

In addition, unless you're showing another photo looking like This:



You don't have the right restrictor, if you're using what you've just shown us.

 

Yeah I have one like that but it's blue. It's not in the pic tho. That pic was from when you guys told me to get a restrictor lol

lsvtec deal didn't go through so I will be rotating the feed from the back.

Thanks for the info on the sandwich plate.

 

Contemplating on selling the Long block and going f2b with a f22a... Oh the options I have... Lol

 

So a little update:

Picked up a new bellhousing for $90! So now it's time for the trans to get out together.

Also have a deal in the works but I would like to ask the hondatech gods for advice first of course

So found a long block on Facebook for 1200. It's a built gsr long block. Build goes as followed

- supertech valve train
- bronze valve guides (thanks to another hondatech member for pointing it out)
- ported and polished gsr head
- arp head stud
- .33 cometic headgasket
- head wasn't milled
- 81.5mm 8:5 wiesco pistons (boo on the low compression)
- block guard
- eagle rods with arp hardware
- oem gsr water pump and oil pump































To recover some funds from the new motor, I would be selling my motor to a friend for 800. I would also be taking out my CTR cams, cam gears, dizzy, intake manifold, alternator(obd2 motor) and throwing them in the new motor.

What do you guys think?

 

Picked this up today

 

Random sleeved block?

 

Looks like css to me

 

Oh.

1000th post yo

 

Yes it's a CSS block. B18c block with 81.5mm wiseco pistons to be exact. Hoping to have the block in the car by this weekend.

 

Taking off the head

 

Durtyyy block




How does the bottom of the head look? Does it need to be shaved?




More durtyy block pics




Clean block

 

You can't tell by "looking" whether or not your cylinder head needs to be resurfaced.

Rule of thumb. Since it came off, and was probably the 1st time it was ever apart, YES.. resurface it. Don't "SHAVE IT.. Meaning, just do the minimal amount it takes to get it flat again; don't try for a specific compression or anything fancy.

 

So here's an update.

Got the new swap in the car and when we go to turn it on we have a loud whistling noise. Sounds like it's coming from the tb or the intake manifold. I just started using an eBay thermal intake gasket. I had a similar problem when using a thermal tb gasket too. Could that be the problem? Any help would be appreciated.

 

 

He's another update. After changing my oil pan and my feed line, it's in running condition again. It's currently on my previous tune. Driving around when outta boost is fine but the whole no numbers on the wideband at idle scares me. Thoughts? Opinions? How does the car sound?

Will be going to tune when my tuner comes back from Alaska on Monday. Hopefully we make some powaaaaaaaaaa

Edit: oil pressure sensor doesn't work and it now has gas lol