what do I do now should I test for the dc voltage?

 

don me like that ron tell me you have a solution

 

Chase the obvious B2/A26 problem first.

1. Turn key OFF.
2. Unplug the C102/C213 connectors.
3. Test pin 1 (Blk/Red wire) and pin 3 (Brn/Blk wire) in C102 for continuity to body ground (battery ground post).

Results?

 

c101 I take it is the clip for the engine harness but what is c213??

 

Study the diagrams I posted. C102 and C213 connect together and are 10P connectors. C102 is on the Engine Harness side. C213 is on the Main Harness side.

 

ok so I found the one that has 10 points in it and check this out I just touched the wires and now my fuel pump primes everytime I turn the key I tried starting the car but I belive I have no spark

 

10P = 10 pin

Turn key to ON(II).

Does CEL turn ON for 2 seconds and then OFF or does the CEL remain on steady?

And does the fuel pump run for 2 seconds and then turn OFF?

 

fuel pump primes for lik 2.5 seconds and the check engine light is steady I tried reading it with the clip but either its steady or im not putting the paper clip in the right spot I know steady means bad ecu could that be why im not getting spark

 

Unplug ECU connectors A and B. Do the voltage tests at pins B1 and A25 (Yel/Blk wires) with key in ON(II).

Set multimeter to DCV 20 position.

Touch red probe to one of the pins and black probe to metal frame under dash.

What are the voltage readings?

 

a25 gave me 12.38 thtas what my batter voltage was but as for b1 I had 0.00

 

No voltage at B1 is another problem.



As shown in the circuit diagram above, the main relay delivers battery voltage to the Yel/Blk wire, which eventually forks to pins A25 and B1.

 

that would be my no spark issue so how do e go about that

 

A25 has voltage and B1 doesn't. Install a jumper wire from A25 to B1 to share A25 voltage with B1. Does the engine now fire up?

 

I touched the wres on th main real now b1 s giving a good reading car still wont start

 

Your test results suggest that your car has general wiring problems. So far, you identified intermittent problems at A26, B1, and B2.

You need to verify that (i) A25, A26, B1, and B2 have proper readings all at the same time, (ii) the CEL turns ON for 2 seconds and then OFF, and (iii) the fuel pump runs for 2 seconds. When you do, we'll go from there.

 

a25 12.38
b1 12.38
a26 has multiple reading
b2 has .001

 

^Sounds like another problem.

Every time you try to star engine but it won't, report on all of these^

 

check engine ight is seady
fuel pump is priming for 2.5 seconds

 

^Suggests a problem at one or more of these pins: A26, A26, B1, B2.

Also try both ECUs.

 

tried the ecu and put my hondata and started right up

 

Switch back to other ECU. Same old problem or does the engine now start?

 

Sorry car is running MINT so I just left and went for a cruise ended leaving jersey and went to PA sorry bout that just really needed to drive but multiple Ecus work I just tried it it was that clip the clip was messing up loose wire or wasn't fully plugged in I really do appreciate all the help Rob you are the man seriously man I appreciate

 

Okay Ron I'm back ahaha I blew an ignition coil car is obd1 and I was driving with code 8 TDC could that be why my coil blew

 

It feels like I'm loosing spark as I was driving I think somewhere in the clip c103 I think you said it was one of those wires has to be my issue would you know which kne

 

Is the inner cover missing inside the distributor? Any oil or red dust inside?





Replace the plugs, wires, cap, rotor, and coil. Reset ECU.

Does engine now run well?

Does code 8 return?