96 Civic EX 5-speed/D16Y7 swap - intake, speedo, hood latch, exhaust questions
Interesting the picture shows the real 96 EX has sort of a Y arrangement in the front pipe. That could be a manifold and front pipe off of a 92-95 or something then.
Also one of the other pictures shows one of the manifold to head nuts missing near cylinder 4, that certainly isn't helping to avoid leaks.
Also one of the other pictures shows one of the manifold to head nuts missing near cylinder 4, that certainly isn't helping to avoid leaks.
Interesting the picture shows the real 96 EX has sort of a Y arrangement in the front pipe. That could be a manifold and front pipe off of a 92-95 or something then.
Also one of the other pictures shows one of the manifold to head nuts missing near cylinder 4, that certainly isn't helping to avoid leaks.
Also one of the other pictures shows one of the manifold to head nuts missing near cylinder 4, that certainly isn't helping to avoid leaks.
I reviewed the thread. The OP has a D16Y7 swap in the 96 Civic EX. The P2E ECU is throwing auto trans codes, so OP also needs a P2E ECU for a manual trans.
Is there anything wrong with running an A/T ECU on a M/T car other than the CEL always being on? Just wondering. Is there a good way to check ECU's at junk yards to insure they are functioning?
Can some one point me in the correct direction as to why clamping exhaust parts together is such a bad ideal? I know a nice magnaflow Resonator would only cost about $50.
Thanks,
Can some one point me in the correct direction as to why clamping exhaust parts together is such a bad ideal? I know a nice magnaflow Resonator would only cost about $50.
Thanks,
Is there a good way to check ECU's at junk yards to insure they are functioning?
Can some one point me in the correct direction as to why clamping exhaust parts together is such a bad ideal? I know a nice magnaflow Resonator would only cost about $50.
I live in Arkansas, so no emissions testing. From what I understand we had a yearly "Safety" check back in the early 90's, but the state decided it was more trouble that the extra income was worth. They would check your blinkers, High beams, look for cracks in the windshield, then make sure you had at least one muffler on the exhaust. They would have you start the car and would only do a sound check if the Tech thought it was to loud. The issue was the they required it to be done at the local police department.
I've been returning 33-35 MPG with a 75-25 mix of City/Highway. (The phone app I've been using for Speed has a trip Odometer on it) So I'm assuming the performance and efficiency is spot on for its age.
I've been returning 33-35 MPG with a 75-25 mix of City/Highway. (The phone app I've been using for Speed has a trip Odometer on it) So I'm assuming the performance and efficiency is spot on for its age.
I've been returning 33-35 MPG with a 75-25 mix of City/Highway. (The phone app I've been using for Speed has a trip Odometer on it) So I'm assuming the performance and efficiency is spot on for its age.
as to the ecu- crack the case open, look for burn marks/leaky capacitors. exhaust, resonator missing... if you're having a "weld issue", its at the weld they put on the cat. not pretty.
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