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Again if you have an EGR system on yours, take off the valve and open the plate on the top of the intake and scrape the carbon out of the passages manually.
It's probably the stock D16Z6 (1.6L on smog sheet), which would not have an EGR system.
Alright, so before I start getting freaky fresh with this, I was thinking about just taking the catalytic converter (maybe the whole exhaust) from my other '93 Del Sol S with a D15B7 and put it on the failing Del Sol. Do you think that would be a good idea to spend time on?
To each there own, id give the sea foam a shot as your cat replacement isn't cheap and is just a shot in the dark as timing also play a major key in this issue. The smog sheet says retest are free. At the end of the day the sea foam and light tune up is gonna help you anyways.
Alright so my 1993 Honda Del Sol Si sounds pretty weak when starting it up. One time it didn't even start after cranking it. When started, it will hit about 1400 rpm and then drop to 1100 rpm a few minutes later. My '93 Del Sol S however, hits 2100 rpm when started and then drops to 1100 rpm in the same amount of time.
I'm going to do a tune up on my Si as it will be my daily and I want it to be as strong if not stronger than my S. I've already changed the air and fuel filter, but I also plan on doing:
-new valve cover gasket (oil leaking)
-new vtec gaskets (oil leaking)
-new spark plugs and wires
-new distributor cap and rotor
-new pcv valve
-new radiator and silicone hoses
-rebuild fuel injectors
-new oil pan and gasket
-oil change
-changing catalytic converter
-new exhaust and muffler
Another reason why I'm doing this tune up is to make my Si be able to pass a smog so I can get it registered (the tags expire this month).
Here is a video that compares both of my Del Sols to help give an idea of what I'm talking about.
I didn't want to start a new thread as this is a quick question and is related to this one.
So, does this part of the exhaust have anything to do with emissions control?
I found out on Saturday that my catalytic converter is clogged (can't see through it) and are swapping it for another one. I'm also planning on putting in a full cat-back exhaust that I bought and are thinking of installing the piping after the catalytic converter plus the new muffler to reduce the detection of anything that has built up in the old piping, for when I get it smogged. (There's black soot all over the tail pipe.)
That is the resonator, it is just empty space to tune the exhaust. It should not affect emissions. Many third party systems don't have one. Soot in the pipes also shouldn't affect the test. They are looking at gasses.
If your cat is clogged you need to get the engine running right or it will just clog up a new one.
That is the resonator, it is just empty space to tune the exhaust. It should not affect emissions. Many third party systems don't have one. Soot in the pipes also shouldn't affect the test. They are looking at gasses.
If your cat is clogged you need to get the engine running right or it will just clog up a new one.
Alright thanks for the info.
I did (hopefully) fix the engine's problem of why it was running rich; there were two stuck-open fuel injectors which I've since replaced.
And just a quick question: Do you think a smog tech would fail me visually if I had aftermarket piping only after the cat-converter? (I heard they will fail you if you have aftermarket headers.)
See how low your HC/CO numbers are? A bad cat isn't going to produce numbers that low.
I actually went and got it smogged today and it passed .
But the current HC is exactly at the maximum allowed and the smog tech said that my ignition timing is retarded to 13-14 when it should be 16. The last smog check before today's (when it failed), the ignition was recorded at 16 but I didn't do anything to the distributor besides replace the cap/rotor. So I don't know what's going on there.
The CO and NO are decently below max, but I don't know if it's good or not:
CO - MAX: .38/.38 | MEAS: .26/.19
NO - MAX: 544/764 | MEAS: 363/164