Running it hard not tuned?

 

It's running on just the motor. So pretty much just a forged GSR. GSR injectors and GSR file. O2 hooked up also. Afrs have been perfect.

 

Trans drain plug was a little loose so it was low on oil. Thanks for the help.

 

Awesome build. Can't wait to see the dyno #s

 

Im running a 1550 CFM fan in a push configuration WITH a shroud. Temps stay around 204 - 206. Is this ok or normal?

 

i wouldnt like those temps. especially after your boosting. are you tryin to say you have a 1550cfm fan with a shroud on the engine bay side.

took me like ten years, but i finally made an air diverter plate out of lexan on the driver side. defintely a noticable difference.

 

No. He means he has it on the opposite side of the engine bay as a push-style fan. I recommend making it a PULL-Style fan system, even if its closer to the downpipe on the engine bay side. Wrap the downpipe and you're fine.

If you're saying that you're at 204 at cruise after fan has come on, that may be an issue.
Regardless of CFM of fan.

 

It's the go autoworks slim fan and shroud. Doesn't fit in a push configuration with the downpipe.

 

that slim fan from go autoworks doesnt flow that much lol. i had one and took it off soon lol.

if you have the fan and shroud in front of the radiator, then wheres your airflow coming from. thats why i asked bout the specific position. if its on the opposite side of the of the bay, try it without the shroud

 

 

Yeah, switch that around, into a pull configuration, possibly even getting a better fan. . Go-Auto works fans don't have that much cfm

 

dude... i have a go autoworks radiator and shroud with a slimfan on the bay side with a 3" downpipe, with pretty much the same chassis. if you dont want to change the fan around,atleast remove the shroud. radiator needs to have much airflow as possible. that shroud being infront is the main issue. on top of that, having the radiator pushed further away from the core support is allowing more air to get pass or around where it needs to be.

if left alone i see the fan burning out and car overheating. and thats without boosing around.



post #27. best pic i can come up with, without goin out and loading a new pic
https://honda-tech.com/forced-induct...3164186/page2/

 

I broke in the GSC cams today. Set the lash hot and did everything the card asked. On the last heat cycle at about minute 19 car got to 220 degrees. So I just shut it down. I can fit a shroud and fan in a pull configuration. I also could just do the fan without the shroud as a pull. I am ordering a better fan now.

 

Purchased the spal 13" puller fan, heat wrap for down pipe and relay kit for fan. Hope this works as a puller with no shroud because I don't have room for one.

 

Just randomly read this thread but coolant issues in a turbo'd Honda aren't uncommon to me. First thing, get a real OEM thermostat. Half the ones from autozone/where-ever don't open where they say they do. Secondly, find a way to turn that shroud inside the engine bay and either get the downpipe re-adjusted, whatever it takes because its worth it. I would look into getting an SPAL beastly fan because half of the fans that come with company's half rad combos are junk. Hell make a stock fan fit, they work well.

 

Why is a pusher fan so frowned upon?

I would check that the motor is actually over heating.

Feel the hoses. You can never trust the old ect sensors

 

Yea its over heating I have a new ECT sensor and a aem water temp sensor on the top hose. I put a new "fail safe" t stat in so maybe ill get a oem one.

 

Does having the coolant cool the turbo increase the temps that much? EGT with no boost stay around 1200 degrees

 

Autoparts store thermostats are trash trash trash. I dont know why, but 3/3 of them failed for me in the past. Just one of those parts you go OEM and never look back

 

I have the heater core lines blocked off because I don't have a heater core. Could that be an issue? I also have a long hose from the front of the head (small line on top of front water neck) to the thermostat housing. I believe it was for the PCV coolant line. Can I just eliminate that?

 

Mmm top hose isnt accurate

Heat gets trapped there when the thermostat is closed.

I always feel the bottom hose. You can tell when the thermostat opens and closes.

I thougt my motor was over heating based off the ect sensor. Felt up the lower hose and sure enough no water was flowing. Meaning the thermo was still closed.

Then thermo opened and water flowed through then closed again.

All the while my temps still showed 210 degrees. I just adjusted my calibration for the sensor.

I also added a autometer temp sensor to the top hose but like i said they heat soak and the temp never drops. Sensor has to be in the head to be accurate

 

No. Exhaust gas temperatures have nothing to do with coolant temperatures.

Exhaust gases are created by your engine initially. It is VERY common to have EGTs about 1200*F-1400*F at crusing speeds and about 1000*F or slightly less at idle depending upon the location of the EGT sensor.

When you get to full boost and you're reaching over 1650*F + is when you need to start looking at whether or not you're running lean, or need a colder range plug.

My tuners use EGT sensors to determine "plug read" without removing plugs after each run on the dyno or doing "pulls" on the street. (wow, what a long time to do).

You don't necessarily need the shroud immediately. That's not going to make or break the system from overheating with your current lack of underbody tray, or engine bay configuration. You need coolant stability first.

Look at using a different T-stat other than something from Autozone, be it Gates, OEM (not OEM replica from "the Zone") or similar.

 

Never had that issue. It always reads about 10 deg higher then the ECT sensor in the tstat housing (which makes sense because its hotter coming out of the head). I can watch it hit fan temp and drop.

 

Interesting points. I only use the ECT sensor in the head and my Management can read that sensor accurately. No "extras" or special housings.

As for heater core elimination.. I cannot answer that with any experience. I've always had one there. When things need to cool down a bit, we turn the blowers on inside the cabin to relieve that heat. It only takes a minute or two, then back to normal.

 

The stock thermo opens at 185 right?

I can feel the lower hose cool then get warm when the thermostat is oscillating.

I calibrated my ect sensor to this.

I installed the autometer gauge in the top hose and it never dropped below 200 even after i can feel my thermostat close.

My spal fan cools down the coolant pretty quickly so the thermostat is constantly opening and closing.

Just a thought for the op