Ok so I just got my first Honda and I probably chose the wrong one for a noob but oh well I have to make it work somehow as my daily driver for now.
it is a 99 dx EJ6 that was once had a turbo LS setup but he got cited by csp and had to get a emissions check/pass or loose the car so by by ls turbo setup hello unknown sourced JDM b16A with who knows how many miles. anyways guess he got tired of it and tickets an thats where I come in as a noob who bought what I thought was going to be a fairly clean ride that could be a "small" project car.

ok now all that exposition is out the way here is my most glaring issues with it that I feel need to be addressed so that this thing can stop being a problem and start being my ride.

wiring harness/engine harness
99' EJ6 obd-2 wiring harness....I believe
honda P2T ECU(obd-2)
JDM B16A- i believe its a first gen OBD-1 since it has a 9/0 stamping on the Head even though the valve cover is SiR2 type, it looks like its been halfway modded to OBD-1/2 maybe....Im not entirely sure at what im looking at here along with what I should be looking for to identify whats going on here.
also now that ive fixed the CEL it is pulling these 3 codes

P0113 Intake air temp sensor 1 circuit high
P1337 Engine speed {RPM} fluctuation sensor no signal) already did the CKF bypass trick)
P0141 02 sensor heater circuit bank 1 sensor 2

anyways take a look for yourselves and let me know what ive got going on here please
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So does no one have any idea what im looking at here as far as the wiring harness is concerned?

 

You have the iat hooked up but its the wrong plug. You're missing the obd2 emissions stuff and explains the extra plugs. The plug you have by the distributor is the actual iat sensor plug.

 

ok the brown one? haha yeah id like to not take credit for this set up since I bought it that way .....I think if ive identified everything correctly the actual wiring harness on there is the original DX obd2 thats been spliced to run the V-tec but was not correctly set up. I just need to find a 99-00 Si one or save my pennies and get me a nice rywire setup

 

Either the O2 sensor, it's wires, or the cat is bad. That's the likely cause for the O2 code.

The CKF bypass sometimes doesn't work properly on some cars, and there are many "updates" to the original trick that I've seen. Did you do all the steps in this version: http://ff-squad.com/wp/?p=309

The IAT plug is actually the black plug in the picture that shows the end of the fuel rail inlet hose. The brown plug is for something on or relating to the charcoal canister. The plug above the fuel rail is for a purge solenoid, and the plug near the FPR is probably for the crank flux sensor.

 

Either the O2 sensor, it's wires, or the cat is bad. That's the likely cause for the O2 code.

The CKF bypass sometimes doesn't work properly on some cars, and there are many "updates" to the original trick that I've seen. Did you do all the steps in this version: http://ff-squad.com/wp/?p=309

The IAT plug is actually the black plug in the picture that shows the end of the fuel rail inlet hose. The brown plug is for something on or relating to the charcoal canister. The plug above the fuel rail is for a purge solenoid, and the plug near the FPR is probably for the crank flux sensor.

 

ok thanks Ill get right on top of fixing that hah yeah im fairly certain the cat is bad....the exhaust from the manifold to the cat look old and rusted out almost like they were pulled from a junk yard car or were just out sitting somewhere for a while
yeah I did the latest updates style of the CKF trick that FFsquad put out....but I think it could be my ECU I totally disconnected it for a minute but as soon as i turned it on after plugging it back on but before starting it all 3 codes popped back up.....I have a OBD-2 scanner and even tried clearing them but they keep coming back up.....any clue as to why that would happen?

 

ok so I was doing a little work on my car today an was looking at my vtec solenoid and am almost certain its the larger obd-0 type...kinda helping my whole this is a first gen jdm B16A theory. anyways does anyone here know if that will need to be converted to the smaller obd-1 type?

Im planning on getting a OBD-1 Rywire engine harness once I save up the extra $
also should I consider getting a OBD-1 ECU to remove the need for a jumper harness or just stick with the P2T?