Hey I never noticed them before on EDM cars.

They are mounted on Honda Accords here (eg., 90-93), I will see if they can be retrofit before I take you up on that offer. What is the measurement of it (length, width)?

 

Hi Everyone,

So, some good news about progress on my interior. I have arranged with another H-T user on here to meet up with them, and we will install the black trunk box interior from the SiR-S. Finally! Quite looking forward to this because that SiR-S has been sitting and tempting me with its trunk box interior goodness for like 2 years. How time flies.

Plan is to do this between Xmas and New Year's. We are discussing a fair exchange and I have some black RHD parts from this car he is looking for (dash, carpets, etc).

Mixed feelings about losing my anonymity, though, as this is the first time another H-T user will have knowingly met me in person.

 

great build by a great DIYer.

 

Better watch out oh great and powerful OZ!

 

Can't hide behind the curtain forever I guess!


There are a couple of electrical gremlins that appear in the extreme cold, I've found. We're going through a deep freeze here of around -30C (-22F) with little relief in sight. One thing is that the dome light switch doesn't like to turn on when the rubber cover gets all stiff - I'm not sure how to improve this situation. The other issue is that my dash lights take their sweet time coming on after the car has been sitting out all day at work. I suspect the problem is in the combo switch and it needs a little TLC clean.

 

Perhaps some Conductive Grease on the contact points could help? I have never experienced that level of cold... it was in the 30s a few days last week and then the next day it was reaching 80, but that is odd even for here... but never in my life has it been in the negatives...

 

That's what you get for living in peach country.

If you're referring to the dome light switch, the contacts are fine; it's the rubber that gets stiff and if it doesn't pop out completely when the door is opened, the light doesn't turn on. Can't have that! If there was a way to ensure the rubber remained flexible at low temps, this would solve the problem I think.

The combo switch should be cleaned following this DIY and I think it will be fine again. If not then it's back to the drawing board.

Lots of little issues rear their heads when it's down below -30C and into -40C (= -40F). Basically everything gets really stiff and brittle. Your tires kinda get square. I can't expect everything to function as-normal but I do want my electrical to be tip top.

Coldest I've experienced is -49C (before the wind chill). This was in the Arctic though. I took a plane that day that only stops flying when it's -50C, so I guess I was fine. -45C where I landed, so not much better. Car needed a boost at the airport from a truck but after that I was on my way. Tough little cars!


EDIT: A little research tells me that rubber loses its flex after the plasiticisers in it leech out. This can be restored by putting the rubber piece in a plastic bag with some silicone spray for like a week. I think I'll peel two off the donor car and try this out..... can't hurt.

 

E,

When I lived in "the Artic Butthole", aka Wyoming, I encountered the same problem with my 92 EH3. I went out and picked up a half dozen door switches, peeled the rubber back and cleaned out the old grease and grime and reapplied a special electric grease, designed for sub-zero temps, got it at my electrical contractor store. They are sticking more because the old grease is not rated for those sub zero temps than for the rubber boots. The old grease reminded me of frozen pork fat when I opened the switches up.

Hope this helps and it was a yearly battle when the needle dropped into the negative zone. Coldest my car was exposed to was -49*F not accounting for wind chill, that's why I call it "the artic butthole"

Tim

 

Love this pic

Great job so far loving all the parts being used

 

I'm definitely looking forward to seeing the SI with the trunkbox interior!

 

Thats a great tip. Will be doing this when I put my dash together. Thanks for spreading the knowledge.

 

Took another trip west to do some skiing over the weekend. Nothing like another road trip to discover more problems with the car.

The power steering pump(?) bearing failed and now makes a pretty horrendous noise. Coincidentally, this gave out on the same stretch of road that my fuel pump died on this past July. This problem is not fatal and I didn't need to hitchhike in to town this time, thankfully. I'll peel a part off a junker later this week. Although, might there be another underlying problem that I should fix to prevent this from happening again? PS fluid level is fine.

Headlight bulb burnt out on my trip ... so there we go... they lasted about 5 years. Had my spare bulb on-hand so I didn't need to drive at any point without two headlights.

Pics of the OEM EDM Spare Bulb Holder:

 

need a jdm auto climate control?

 

^ No, I've got two already.

Also, some ongoing problems I've got to resolve:

- Dome light comes on only when it's cold out! When it's warm out, or when the cabin heat has been on a long time, the dome light doesn't come on when either door is opened. But works fine when manually switched on. A recent development in the last month. Weird. I suspect there's a bad wire connection that has developed after I installed the air refiner - I'll check that first - as opposed to two poor grounds at each door.

- DRL relay is having trouble in the cold. I suspect its solder points are cracking or something. I'll swap it with another one.

 

Leave it to Honda to come up with a "Spare Bulb Holder". Amazing!

 

Any reviews/pics of the dual tip exhaust installed?

 

^ Afraid it is not installed on this build yet. Still mounted on my previous ride. I think I posted in the OEM Rare Parts thread some pics of it ... possibly not installed though. I think someone asked me to make a vid/audio of it ... well, I'll do this eventually.

 

Ch-ch-ch-changes (a preview!):
(Excuse the filthy rear bay. It's better now!)

 

Pm'd

 

That rear seat bar is probably the most overlooked part of the Jdm interior. Too many times I have seen the seats sag in the middle because it was missing. R u installing the gathers system?

 

I can't imagine anyone putting these seats in without the proper hardware and expect it to look like a quality install. And yes, I met up with another H-T member, derek_k, and we installed the hardware for the rear trunk box (sometimes called "Gathers") interior .... it's been gathering dust (literally) in my SiR-S for two years, so this install is a long time coming. I "paid" derek_k in parts from the SiR-S and he was happy to take them off my hands and I was happy to be rid of them from my garage. Honestly, it was either there or the garbage eventually - which would have been a shame.

Having the JDM EG6 in my garage meant I could pull the seat hardware off myself and I then know exactly where each piece is supposed to mount. (We could also compare to derek_k's EG6 during the install and noted the many subtle differences between CDM/USDM interiors and JDM trunk box ones. I found this helped a lot.) Also, it means I could remove the scissor jack mount myself which a lot of people don't receive when they buy a JDM trunk box interior to install. In the pic in the above post it is the bracket you can see to the left of the centre seat bracket. I am aiming for a swap install with strong attention to detail so in my view it would not be complete without this.

We mocked up his own (grey) trunk box interior seats and parts from his EG6 to verify fitment instead of me bringing everything with me, but I am in Calgary for New Year's so no pics of it until I can fully install it when I'm back home! Just be patient, everyone, haha.

The install itself was a big success with no real snags at all. After you have all the trunk box brackets in your hand, plan for about a day to do the actual removal of the old CDM/USDM interior brackets, then the welding in of the new ones. Thanks, derek_k!

 

I was just looking at derek_k's build thread that looks like it is going to be great in its own right. I think it is great that you two were able to meet. Over the years I have been fortunate to be close to others who share the same passion although I am older than most and have had my car longer than some of them have been alive. I run into some of them from time to time but many have moved up to newer, bigger, pricier cars.

Having that Jdm Eg6 at your disposal or any car for extra parts to compare and swap pieces at will is one thing that is definetely a bonus.

Happy New Year!!!!!!

 

Hi Everyone,

A major update to the build over the Xmas break. I’ve been trying to get everything completed before I headed back to work on Monday, but a dozen other things in “real life” have led to some delays so I anticipate the completed install will be finished by the weekend.

As I mentioned earlier, I began the rear JDM trunk box rear interior install, with the welding help of derek_k (thanks again!). For the most part, we followed these installation instructions authored by member fungus mungus. His is a thorough DIY so there is no sense repeating it here. However, there are some small additional details you may want to know if attempting this install so you can have as 100% a complete and accurate conversion as possible.

First of all, I removed all my brackets myself from my wrecked JDM EG6 so I got to see with my own eyes exactly where everything lines up and mounts. I also got to remove the scissor jack mount which should be part of a 100% trunk box conversion. Installation occurred with the assistance of having derek_k’s JDM EG6 next to us so we could use it to verify exact fitment. These are basically ideal conditions for performing this retrofit, so between fungus mungus’ write-up and my details herein, I would consider our efforts to be the authority on how to perform this install.

Let’s examine a few things about the rear trunk box interior brackets on a JDM EG6:

Here is the centre seat bracket. On the pics I have noted some design/installation info which may be of assistance. (Pics with the blue body interior frame are from derek_k’s EG6.)





Here is the scissor jack bracket. Basically you can’t get placement of this wrong on a retrofit because it only goes in one spot. It was a real bitch to remove though, due to awkward angles to get at the spot welds.




The brackets that mount on each side of the T-bar are also easy to place. Line them up with the edge of the sheet metal when you follow the DIY.



Then there are the seat bracket mounts. If you examine the OEM JDM installation, there is an additional piece of metal between the body sheet metal and the weldnut underneath. This is because it needs extra support as the body sheet metal is not strong/thick enough. You cannot really copy the exact OEM install because the access to that area is hidden behind the frame rail.



There are 4 options described in various DIYs around the web for how to mount these. Only two of these methods are remotely safe.

Option 1
http://6thgearadvertising.com/civic-...7bd8513fa01c62
BAD. He just fit a nut into a hole, then tacked it in place with no additional metal to provide support.

Option 2
https://honda-tech.com/forums/showth...9#post48097259
GOOD. The washer provides the additional support of metal I mentioned and it is very, very solid.

Option 3
https://honda-tech.com/forums/showthread.php...2190&styleid=2
TERRIBLE! Did he just tap a hole through the sheet metal?!! In an accident these rear seats can become projectiles in the cabin. Bad, bad, bad.

Option 4
https://honda-tech.com/forums/showth...2#post48098522
GOOD. This would arguably be most similar to the OEM install, however it necessitates the use of rivnuts which means more tools to purchase. Probably, this is the "best" option, though, if only because it comes closest to OEM although Option 2 is also very good.

I went with Option 2. Bolts were a Honda bolt-washer that I had laying about. They are a 12mm head, 10mm width, 1.25 thread pitch, and approximately 25mm length. However, if you do this retrofit both derek_k and I recommend going out and getting your own bolts at a hardware store (of the same dimensions and pitch) that are not dipped/glazed/galvanized/etc. like these ones were. This is because he found that the welds did not like the coating on the bolts even though he tried to remove it. Also, get a larger washer just so there is more surface area to weld to. Lesson learned.

So, it’s game time. Line things up.





And zap them.



Drilled a hole for the seat brackets then opened them up with a die grinder, then welded the bolts in.



Here was the final product after paint, too.





There are also some smaller modifications required to the interior to insert the expanding trim plastic screws. As far as I know this was not mentioned on any other DIY.




These holes don’t need to be perfectly squared off; I’m not that ****. They measure 10mm x 6mm so I used a ¼” drill bit and expanded the hole at either end. It’s easy enough to located the spot to put these: there is a raised part of the sheet metal, and aim for the centre of that. I test fit the rear plastics just to be sure but don’t get too carried away about it being perfect. Hit it with some paint though to cover the exposed metal. You have four to drill.




There are some other subtle differences between the bodies of the JDM EG6 and the EH3. One area is the holes where the speaker brackets mount on the sides. Note how the holes for it are notched out, in contrast to the EH3. Anyway, it doesn’t affect fitment of the speakers. But, you will also need the screw clip I have identified.




Naturally, we will want to mount the rear speakers. (Pics with the black body interior frame are from my own EG6.) Note these are factory-installed rear speakers, not the optional accessory. How do I know this? First, the SiR-S came with them pre-installed, according to the brochure. Second, there is no “Gathers” badging on the speaker grille (not shown). Third, the short wiring harness for the speakers does not have the tag/label with the accessory part number. Fourth, these speakers use the same silver bracket as CDM/USDM one, although this *may* just be a difference between 92-93 and 94-95 speaker designs. Have a look at the pics to compare and contrast.





Naturally, I want something better than 20-year old paper cone speakers back there. I picked up some Gathers GS-4686 speakers which should be an improvement. They’re great because they use the OEM connector but you do need to drill new holes to accommodate the 3-screw design. You could use a metal tapping screw but I chose to drill and tap new holes (M4 x 0.7) to use the original screws. Pics of proper mounting will come in the next post.




Finally, as you might know my vehicle was originally a USDM vehicle but I am trying to get rid of all vestiges of USDM-ness (except the ELD) and convert certain elements to CDM features. By this I mean stuff like the speedo in km/h and DRLs, etc. One curious “non-feature” I found was that the seat belts didn’t have the little button that stops the clip from falling down to the floor. I don’t know if this is by design in the US or if the P.O. removed them or they broke. Odd that both sides didn’t have them though. Anyway, CDM and JDM seat belts both have them so I took this time with the quarter plastics off to swap over. They’re nice because they probably have 100,000 fewer kilometres of wear on them.



This is as far as I got and I will post back in the next few days with the completed install!

 

Awesome on the install. FYI you can get those button from the dealer. They come as 2 pieces. How i install them is put the side with the pin through the belt, then put the cap. Then i use a small punch that i heat up with a lighter and i melt the pin down like a rivet

 

Thanks man! I will definitely be able to get my interior in probably by the end of the month. =D so happy lol