JDM Gathers rear interior from Mr. Spoon's personal EG6 install in my EG
^ Old photo. OP has. With working door-open and trunk indicator under tach. And yellow-box to read mph properly.
nice! i love my EG6 cluster. Mine is the only one of it's kind I have ever seen too. Its an Auto 2dr cluster with TCS
This looks really good man. Its nice to finally see the shots! Your interior is going in the right direction. I would love to do something comfy like that one day.
Hey bro. I know you don't know me but I had a question for you. I saw your thread on your install for you gathers conversion. My question is for the T bracket that installs bellow the box are there and other peaces that go on the bracket before bolting it down to the body or does the T bracket ends bolt straight to the body? I can't see it on your thread. I have the T bracket and the other bracket that sits straight up in the center of the rear. Not sure if this makes sence to you. LMK
^x2.
Yep, IIRC, all coupes were all built in North America and exported.
MidnightEG6, there are actually brackets on the JDM vehicle just in front of the shock towers that bolt onto the ends of the T-brace. Here's a pic from my earlier post that shows one of them (they're black):

I got these with my conversion...like the lower bracket for the T-bracket, they had to be drilled out of the donor car. I've never seen anyone selling this conversion include these brackets, but they're fairly easy to fabricate. Just thin straps of metal
Yep, IIRC, all coupes were all built in North America and exported.
MidnightEG6, there are actually brackets on the JDM vehicle just in front of the shock towers that bolt onto the ends of the T-brace. Here's a pic from my earlier post that shows one of them (they're black):

I got these with my conversion...like the lower bracket for the T-bracket, they had to be drilled out of the donor car. I've never seen anyone selling this conversion include these brackets, but they're fairly easy to fabricate. Just thin straps of metal
Yeah, I'll replace the speakers later. I just wanted to get them in. I have a pair of decent Polks, but I need to get another pair and then rewire them so they'll work in series. One thing at a time...replacing those speakers can be done any time. Also, I noticed that I'll have to remove the plastic shrouds when I put the side panels on. The shrouds have holes that apparently bolt on to the side panels. No biggie...I'll do that later this week, after the seats are ready to go in.
This morning, I hopped in the back and took a couple of minutes to drill out the holes for the rear mounts:
First, I put the seat backs in and lined them up so that it folded down properly. It works best to have two people do this...one for each seat back. It turns out that the little tabs on the brackets line right up with those little indentations. I then took a sharpie and marked the holes to be drilled and drew an outline of the bracket:
Passenger side:

Driver's side:

Then I took the seat backs out of the car and drilled out the holes. Choose a bit that's bigger than your bolt, as you're going to have to put a nut on the underside of the car anyway. That sheetmetal is way too thin to support the seats without a nut behind it.
Drilling the holes on the passenger side:

Finished passenger side:

I didn't get a pic of the finished driver's side, but you get the idea.
At lunch, I'm going to see what it's going to take to get nuts welded on to the underside.
Also, added a few more pics to the original posting, showing the trunk box.
More later.
fm
This morning, I hopped in the back and took a couple of minutes to drill out the holes for the rear mounts:
First, I put the seat backs in and lined them up so that it folded down properly. It works best to have two people do this...one for each seat back. It turns out that the little tabs on the brackets line right up with those little indentations. I then took a sharpie and marked the holes to be drilled and drew an outline of the bracket:
Passenger side:

Driver's side:

Then I took the seat backs out of the car and drilled out the holes. Choose a bit that's bigger than your bolt, as you're going to have to put a nut on the underside of the car anyway. That sheetmetal is way too thin to support the seats without a nut behind it.
Drilling the holes on the passenger side:

Finished passenger side:

I didn't get a pic of the finished driver's side, but you get the idea.
At lunch, I'm going to see what it's going to take to get nuts welded on to the underside.
Also, added a few more pics to the original posting, showing the trunk box.
More later.
fm
Can you send a picture of the bracket you outlined? I'm having someone put them in and they said I don't have that bracket. I thought the one on the rear seats were the only ones you needed.
^ Not sure why you need a picture of that seat bracket...it's attached to the rear seat backs or any conversion you find.
fm
fm
Now that was a DeSchlong QUALITY write up!! Thank you!! I will never do the SiRII interior back in my hatchback, but I think it is esquisette!
Not too fond of DYNAMATS propensity for holding moisture though. Even better sound as well as heat cancelling spray-ons are available that will cover much better (nooks & cranny's, gaps and seam junctions) and are lighter weight/less volume. I would look into LIZARDSKIN products.
Your idea for the speed correction for the JDM cluster is OUTSTANDING as well as your attention to detail.
Not too fond of DYNAMATS propensity for holding moisture though. Even better sound as well as heat cancelling spray-ons are available that will cover much better (nooks & cranny's, gaps and seam junctions) and are lighter weight/less volume. I would look into LIZARDSKIN products.
Your idea for the speed correction for the JDM cluster is OUTSTANDING as well as your attention to detail.
LOL, thanks ... but credit for this goes squarely with fungus mungus.
To read my DIYs ... click the link in my signature.
Incidentally, I have the trunk box interior and will be using this guide to install it. Thanks, fm!
To read my DIYs ... click the link in my signature.

Incidentally, I have the trunk box interior and will be using this guide to install it. Thanks, fm!
I may be wrong, but I think Mr. McCoy was simply complimenting my write-up by comparing to your body of work. I am flattered either way.
The dynomat is going to go pretty soon.
fm
The dynomat is going to go pretty soon.
fm
Yes, Fungusamongus has my complete respect and I consider both him and you with much regard.
I was wondering this though; Is the speedometer and tachometer ran from the same signal? And if so does that mean when the speed correction unit is employed, does it throw off the tachometer calibration?
I was wondering this though; Is the speedometer and tachometer ran from the same signal? And if so does that mean when the speed correction unit is employed, does it throw off the tachometer calibration?
Thanks!
The tach and speedo are independent of each other, so the YB has no effect on the tach whatsoever. I did another writeup on installing the YB here. Check it out.
fm
The tach and speedo are independent of each other, so the YB has no effect on the tach whatsoever. I did another writeup on installing the YB here. Check it out.
fm
Do you anyone that can fabricate that pivot bracket for the seats? i have to bar but not the brackets...
Just got back from the shop. The best way to do the rear seats is the weld a steel strap to the underside of the car where the seats will bolt in and then weld nuts to that strap. Otherwise the seats will tear out the sheet metal, just as I suspected. Gonna get this done on Thursday or Friday. Updates after that.
fm
fm
fm,
I didn't see a post back about how you eventually dealt with this? On my donor EG6 I've found the area behind the area for the bracket is inaccessible, so I'm still at a loss as to the best way to retrofit the interior into my Si.
It might be possible to use a rivnut / nutsert, also. However, here's a method I read about in another forum (credit goes to forums.tunedtech.ca, user brandonryan)
On RHD shells there are threaded holes to screw down the seats. (i didnt know about this) so i asked about and people said "you got to just weld the rear seats in place)
I was like F that.
So... I came up with a idea.. Thought id share.
Take some large bolts (oem honda) with large washers on them.
Cut the holes where they need to be in your floor boards. (bi enough for the head of the bolt to sit down, but small enough so the washer can be welded to the floor board)

(you get the idea)
So.. now.. if we just welded in the bolt, by welding in the washer, the bolt would just spin.
So we need to weld the HEAD of the bolt to the washer so it will not spin in the hole.


Now place them in the hole and weld the washer down to the floor board. (Not welding the threads)
You should end up with something like this.

Much more practical rather then welding down the seats permanently.
I was like F that.
So... I came up with a idea.. Thought id share.
Take some large bolts (oem honda) with large washers on them.
Cut the holes where they need to be in your floor boards. (bi enough for the head of the bolt to sit down, but small enough so the washer can be welded to the floor board)

(you get the idea)
So.. now.. if we just welded in the bolt, by welding in the washer, the bolt would just spin.
So we need to weld the HEAD of the bolt to the washer so it will not spin in the hole.


Now place them in the hole and weld the washer down to the floor board. (Not welding the threads)
You should end up with something like this.

Much more practical rather then welding down the seats permanently.
Last edited by deschlong; Nov 11, 2012 at 01:59 PM.
fm,
I didn't see a post back about how you eventually dealt with this? On my donor EG6 I've found the area behind the area for the bracket is inaccessible, so I'm still at a loss as to the best way to retrofit the interior into my Si.
It might be possible to use a rivnut / nutsert, also. However, here's a method I read about in another forum (credit goes to forums.tunedtech.ca, user brandonryan)
I didn't see a post back about how you eventually dealt with this? On my donor EG6 I've found the area behind the area for the bracket is inaccessible, so I'm still at a loss as to the best way to retrofit the interior into my Si.
It might be possible to use a rivnut / nutsert, also. However, here's a method I read about in another forum (credit goes to forums.tunedtech.ca, user brandonryan)
The other solution you proposed is a clever one. But if you want access, I think you can get access by dropping the gas tank.
fm
Thanks Deschlong. Yes, I have installed the JDM cluster, but I hadn't posted updated pics. Originally I didn't convert to a white cluster because I didn't want to have a cluster reading in KPH in a country that goes by MPH. I wanted to preserve my actual mileage (over 300K now).
I found a product by a company called YellR called the "Yellow Box" that converts/corrects speedometers, so I bought that and installed an EG6 cluster w/door open indicators. Got those working as well as the low fuel lamp. Now I have the best of both worlds...a white cluster with the correct mileage that reads in MPH. It's more accurate now that I can dial in the correction factor (Honda clusters of that period tend to be about 5-7% off) and it now goes to 180 KPH. (FIXED
)
fm
I found a product by a company called YellR called the "Yellow Box" that converts/corrects speedometers, so I bought that and installed an EG6 cluster w/door open indicators. Got those working as well as the low fuel lamp. Now I have the best of both worlds...a white cluster with the correct mileage that reads in MPH. It's more accurate now that I can dial in the correction factor (Honda clusters of that period tend to be about 5-7% off) and it now goes to 180 KPH. (FIXED
) fm
This is still the best example of how these cars should of came from Canada to here.






