didn't crack the sleeve

but it did kill the head&turbo lol

 

Run my B20/vtec turbo at 715hp stock sleeves with GE guard for 10+ runs at 1/4 mile track. been around 550+ HP for 1 season and 30+ track runs.

 

i rest my case

9's on stock b20 sleeves don't lie...

couple of questions tough:

compression?
rev limit and rpm at peak hp?
peak torque?
87.2 or 89mm?
jdm/usdm/edm b20b/z?

interesting

 

good golly miss molly. woah

 

check this out.

http://www.turbooptions.com/forum/sh...light=trickeng

block guards are hit or miss. most of the time its miss. blockguards are typically useless your one of the lucky ones, but that is a gamble.

 

is there a thread on how to "properly" install a block guard?

also for the item above is that $295 for just the block guard look alike thing, not including the machining costs? that doesn't seem like much of a deal...

 

That price is installed, just checked.

 

That price includes installation.

There is no "proper" way to install a blockguard. Why? Because the block castings are all over the place. No two block are exactly the same in all the raw cast areas.

If you think its just a block guard look alike then you didn't read the post. All I can say is, so many people who thought it was just a wicked expensive blockguard thingy have now purchased the CSS after seeing it at the outlaw event. Once the season starts up here in NE I'm sure you will hear more.

 

Agreed with jdm Crx! I know alot of people in my area that are making tons of power without sleeves. Not saying anything bad about em at all thats mine plan in the future, but as of right now motor has pistons, rods, and block guard and is making 400whp and 290tq all day long daily driven. I see nothing wrong with a block gaurd just my opinion.

 

I never said that I was just saying if it costs almost $300 not installed then thats not really that good of a deal. the installation is the hard part on it. looks really good and $300 installed is a pretty good deal too.

 

there is a a proper way to install a block guard for sure!!!

if you make it fit so it goes in snugly but without force, it'll not distort the sleeves but support them.

that's where the whole hit and miss story resides from, it's the installer...
the people who understand what it does, install it proper benefit greatly from it, just busy modifying one myself to make it fit, i'm not satisfied if i see more then 0.000" distortion when installed

NOT saying that the way your product is designed is not WAY superior, because that's how a block should be braced, but then again i do not have acces to a cnc and i live in holland.

what's you tought on the cooling subject, as your guards seem to sit flush with the deck... so there's no water present at the spot you want to cool most (top of the cilinder)

 

if you don't have the mula to sleeve it you should deff. put a block guard in it may not help a lot but it can;t hurt either

 

Ahhh. See now thats the biggest problem. People saying it can't hurt. It absolutely can hurt. When you have a blockguard that is tight on one side and loose on the other you are distorting the cylinders and actually pushing them to the loose side. Setting up stresses like that can definitely "promote" cracking.

So you are better off not using anything than using a blockguard which doesn't fit properly.

 

if it does'nt fit properly then thats another story,on one of my previous nitrous set ups i ran stock sleeves and a blockguard for years on a very healthy shot with no problems so a like to think it deff. helped. my2 cents

 

they rarely ever fit properly, so its not really a different story. i've installed just about every brand out there on many motors and its WAY to rare that one would fit correct.

as for your block. there are 50people who broke there sleeves to every one who had a set-up that didn't. i ran 11.8's in a full interior 2600lb EK with a stock h22 for 3years off an apexi afc. jeff evans ran over 700hp on a stock block. along with all the other success stories which are very rare compared to the broken stories which people don't typically talk about.

so what was the final decision from the original poster. blockguard or no blockguard.

 

I run a GE blockguard in my set up, 402 whp 287 wtq and haven't had any issues. I think they help, and if a sleeve does decide to take a ****, hopefully it won't be as bad. Im planning on getting a sleeved block next year, and I'll still use one. If nothing else, to help keep the sleeves from moving

 

the last GE D16 guard be installed/tacked in fit nearly perfect right out of the packaging. virtually no filing/etc to fit MINT

 

no block guard, it will warp your cylinder walls.

 

you know you sound like a bandwagon, un-informed, complete idiot, right?

 

even Golden Eagle themself contributes to those comments...

i called the tech department of golden eagle with a question pertaining retainer screws to keep the block guard in place.

when i told the guy i just made the block guard fit perfectly and snugly without disturbing the bores to much (less then 0.0004"), just supporting them perfectly. he told me i was a fool and just rendered my block guard useless.

he told me that i should've pressed in the block guard, regardless of how much interference there was (wich was about 0.04" in some places). he also told me that if it did'nt distort the bore while pressing it in, it can't do it's job

if i would've pressed this unit in this particulair casting, i'm sure it would've cracked the sleeves by just pressing the block guard in.

 

the guy that told you that sounds a little crazy.

i'm sure they'd rather sleeve a block for you, maybe thats the reason for their attitude.

NEVER had a problem with a blockguard, and if somebody argues agains their effecitiveness, well, they wont convince me. seen them do a good job too many times. CLEARLY the sleeves will have more support with a perfectly installed blockguard. no way around it.

 

amen

 

Sounds like you spoke to Robert.

He also claims that any machine shop that simply hones a Honda block and still uses std size pistons is wrong. Supposedly it destroys the block.

 

your twisting my words i never called you a fool. i told you that the block guard is meant to be pressed in and when done right it can throw your cylinders out of round. we always suggest at least a clean up hone after install. i also said that if yours is just loose in the block it is not doing anything for you and that is a fact

 

i never said it destroys the block. what i told you is that when we tried to use a set of 81mm pistons i looked threw 10 stock ls blocks that we had here and not one out of 10 was good enough to do a clean up hone on and still use 81mm pistons all were out of round and that we suggest if doing a rebuild to just do it right and get .25 over pistons so you can get a good bore and hone on it.