Hey guys, Im about to send my z6 block out to the machine shop in the next week or so.

I will be having my block bored for my 75.5mm turbo Vitara pistions, and I will running H beam rods.

Should I have a block guard installed?

Reason being, the machinist told me, "You can bullet proof your engine, but it will only last so long if you beat on it" which i totally understand.

I just don't want to spend more than I have too.

My power goal is around 300-350 whp, and this will be my DD.


So I would just like some feedback on what you all have to say. Thanks

 

i would pass.

 

there junk send it to the shop and get it bored and leave the 90s in the 90s

 

A member on here ask Golden Eagle why they still make block gaurds. Golden Eagle said because people still buy them....

They are a waste of time and money you dont need one.

 

Be a man and darton sleeve that bitch!! Talk about uber *** kicker!! good with a turbo and dont and to really worry about "too much" boost. Arp recomended with high boost aplications!!

 

When running H beam connecting rods and Vitara Pistons, they sit below deck. Will this have any adverse effects on the cylinder walls when the combustion goes off?

Isn't this why block guards are needed? for when the pistons sit below deck?

 

Block guards are to keep the cylinder walls from "walking" or shifting under high loads/hp/boost. A block guard isn't going to keep your stock sleeve from splitting due to higher cylinder pressures provide by boost. And for the work involved to properly install a block guard, you'd be better off sleeving anyhow. From what I've read it needs to be hammered/ pressed in, welded in, and the sleeves need to be align bored. Bottom line is, for how much money and time it takes to build a engine, do it once do it right. My block is sleeved.

 

 

I just sleeved my block, block gaurd is good, rather just sleeve the bitch, now its bullet proof

 

Sleeves?, Bwwwaaaahahah, whats the difference, its still a pathetic open deck Honduh.
Save your money, better yet buy something thats worth all that effort.
Pig in a new dress comes too mind, if you spend the bucks too put a close deck sleeve kit in....IMO one of two things will happen, either they will f&^K it up installing it or, something else will break.

 

Way to whip a dead horse one more time. Guess what I voted?

 

Very true.
You should sleeve it, can't go wrong with either GE or Darton MID.

 

FOR?..............

 

Either someone deleted a post, or this is one of HT's most ironic posts...

 

I voted NO to clear things up.

GE HD sleeves rule! I'll leave it at that...

 

Yeah, I logged on this morning and....thought the same thing.
I'll whip that sob 1 more time.
Gotta love that BG!.

 

Block gaurds are nothing but headaches from my experience. Even if it's nstalled properly, I personally don't think it does anything so I just POSTED my B20B block.

I don't know if what I did is helping or not but wanted to try something different and it's still running strong after 6000km of abuse!!

BUT save up and sleeve it. <--what I plan on doing as well.

 

They are junk and a band-aid.... But if you must, HAVE IT WELDED IN.

-J

 

Waste of money.

<-- speaks from experience.

 

You're doing it wrong, You NEVER weld in a block guard.

 

Ok that pic of the block guard being welded in is...well what it is. Im not gonna bash.

A block guard is not typically welded in. The block is usually heated to expand the water jacket, then the block guard is cooled using nitrogen or the like to shrink it ever so slightly, and then it is pressed in. Upon returning to normal temps/sizes you have a very nice tight fit. Just my 2 cents on this re-re-repost.

And as for the OP if 300-350 is ur power goal. You should be good to run a few seasons w/o sleeves but like everyone else said. For piece of mind and room to grow....sleeve it.

 

Yeah and what happens when the motor is at operating temp?.
peta is gonna be emailing soon for beating this dead horse!

 

^^^

Hahaha, I got to find that whipping horse gif.

If you do go block guard make sure whoever installs it knows what they are doing. I've seen freshly bored motors have them installed after all machining was done

Found it

 

Hahahaha

 

Ill add my .02 cents in here.

back 4 years ago i had a built Y8 with pistons and rods fully built head with over size valves and alot more stuff. Had alot of money tied up in it.

Went to the dyno with ELSPOOL and we had basicly the same set up minus i had a 2.25" exhaust and he had a 3" exhaust.

He made 300 and i made 267. Tunner told me there was fuel pump problems and was running out of fuel. Turns out my B&M was too loose and the spring was not putting enought pressure on seat.

Anyways well i turned up the fuel pressure up and brought the fuel up a few times and one day to work BOOM clack and clang on the highway. My sleeve cracked and a chunk 1.5 x 1.5" blew out the back of the sleeve. Well if i had a Block gaurd it would of kept the sleeve in place and my rings would of just tooken the beating maybe some piston damage.

Well when the motor blew up it too out alll my pistons, ****ed my head up and bent some valves.

So my replacement motor Y8 stock i slapped in a str block gaurd and arp's and drove it for over 70,000km at 12 psi and beat the light **** out of it. Never cracked a sleeve and no hot spotting once so ever. It just spun a bearing in a corner.

My new built motor is more built then the last one and it has a STR block gaurd in it now. My blower setup 260whp LSVTEC will have a block gaurd in it. Yeah whats $100 bucks for piece of mind.

Ive done lots of BG back in the day on nitrous motors and all the ones that blew up with the BG had just messed up rings. The ones with out the piston got taken out and the head and pieces got thrwon all in the intake.

My .02 cents.

Just cause a stock sleeve motor can take 600 whp does not mean that one time you get bad gas or a bad tune its gonna take it.