Nice, you guys are some of the more reasonable people I've met on Hondatech.

 

Install is easy get the open style not the JG ones. STR golden eagle. You basicly put the block gaurd ontop of the sleeves and align it and using a plastic end hammer tap it in place. When its flush Hammer it doen a few mm where it gets snug. Use a brass punch and check it all over with a measuring tool so it is the same depthness all over.

Ive done near 30 installs and none of them had hot spots nor over heating problems and i think it was 3-4 of the cars that blew up just had cracked/split sleeves.

 

dosnt the metal that the block gaurd is made out of expand underless heat range then the cylender walls do ?? couldnt this cause ovaling of the cylenders? or expand some and maybe blow the headgasket.. i think i also heard of the cylender walls crackin severly under the block guard and once even hydro locking a motor on the coolant , but i guess its all he said she said bein that ive never sceen this first hand , on a positive note my buddy has a ls semi built boosted to 12psi untuned with a block guard and his motor hasnt popped yet , so u never know that guard could be holding it together

sorry for the spelling/grammer i fail at life

 

I put this to the test . USE a block guard they do work ! I ran one in my turbo gsr never had any problems. After i sold the car i built another crx turbo lsvtec and i didnt use one because i read a thread on here about them being a waste .I ran both @ about 25 psi the gsr is still running making 567whp to date the lsvtec lasted 4 mouths @556whp both tuned correctly. so if ur broke and building a budget build use it and be on the safe side.

 

Agreed, same thing happend to me. If I had a block guard in my old set-up it would of saved my head all the valves and maybe my piston. So the new setup has a golden eagle block guard now. just cause funds limited me to sleeve it

 

im not sure which bandwagon to jump on.

 

If you welded the block guard all the way around, maybe. But with one in place, the sleeve can either stay in place, or get forced/fall into the cylinder. With the 16psi of coolant pressure behind it, I doubt it's gonna stay in place. Most of the pics I've seen of broken sleeves, the jacket/sleeve stay connected, and don't fall in since they are shaped like a key stone http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Key_stone


Apparently you've never heard of GE, Benson, etc. FYI half the re-sleeved blocks out there are still open decks, and many have thousands of miles on them. Open deck non-floating (GE) is actually better than closed deck in many ways.

 

this is funny. i actually was debating if i should spend the money to get some darton mids or just block guard it till i came UP with the money to have the sleeves put in. then i called golden eagle and asked them should i install one. i will be running a turbo ls-v and am shooting for the 375 to 400 hp mark. one of the techs there said as long as im not running more than 400 hp(or more than 15 psi) with a good tune then i can use the block guard and run it like that. he said he had been building cars for a while and used the bg's every build and NEVER had a problem with the motor. at least in therms of cyl wall problems or any of that mess.


so in conclusion, i would say, YES get one installed. how you do it is up to you. welded or not. but i know i will be using one now that i know the info that i know.

 

The way mine cracked the eleeve cracked in a v and it would of stayed in place. So many factors come into play. People say if the sleeve cracks coolant will overcome the cylinder pressures and make its way it. Well hopefully by that time the engine is off. Ive seen tons of cracked sleeves here and in person and some just crack and thats its there lucky. Ive seen one break at 7500rpm with no block gaurd and what a mess. Pistons rods head all junk. One broke at sameish rpm and the block gaurd held the sleeve together and all buddy had to do was fresh block slap all his parts in with new rings and call it a day.

Its a 100 bucks and if you are going to bore it cheap insurance.

 

http://www.turbooptions.com/cncdesig...d&productId=13

 

wasn't there just a build the other month of a 500 hp d series with stock sleeves?

 

As far as one previous post said about what happens when the engine gets to operating temp. Well if both materials are of the same metal/density then theoreticly they will heat up and expand at the same rate. keeping a nice tight fit still. If the BG is of a harder denser material then the sleeves will expand first then the BG.

I now do see the valid point that people have been saying about it holding the sleeve together so the whole thing just doesnt explode in case somthing does happen. So thats def a piece of mind.

I too have heard as long as you stay below the 400hp/15ish psi range the stock sleeves should be fine. There are vaild points in both directions. Personally im not going to be using one on my b16a 300-350 build this winter.

 

ok im scared now for my build! I wanted to put a blockgaurd in on my motor but the guy puttin my motor together said it wasnt neccesary(sp?).i put together an ls vtec together forged intenals, itr head worked over by portflow, ctr cams and a gt35r and i was thinkin around 16-17 lbs i would b around 375-400hp so now im kinda scared i dont want to push it that much now and crack a sleeve it is going to b my daily and people tellin me that kinda power in an ef chassis is gonna b tons of fun anyway. man im scared

 

Its $100 bucks of piece of mind. What happens if you get a bad tank of gas or your tunner puts to much timing.

 

16/17 psi would make more than what your aiming for with that setup i would believe. hell, some people are making that by only using 11/13 lbs

 

sh!ft i tell myself thats what ill make sooo i wont b disappointed. If i do end up with my numbers because that was what i was aimin for in the first place i wont be disappointed.

 

i would go with no block guard

 

leave it out i have had ls turbos with them and without them seein no diff. if the block is gonna crack it will justd do it b4 the guard so fuc it

 

Forget about that block gaurd.. there are so many high hp cars with stock sleeves and over 90% do not use block guards. Tuner's have gotten so good that there not worth the hassle. IMO. going without is the better way.

 

lol, I have ran both a guard and no guard. and they were both ok.

Actually the non-guarded motor made more power. lol (and is still kicking)

 

My old type r bottem end got messed from a GE block guard! I'll never use one again!

 

how did a GE block guard "mess" up your bottom end? did it tune your car improperly and cause it to detonate? did it improperly install itself? did the blockguard itself improperly assemble your engine?

haha

 

Go commando...No guard.

 

blockguards do work, they just have to be installed properly!

blockguards prevent cilinder cracking due to sidewall loading.
they do the same job a block post does.

anyone that understands the reasoning behind it, considers running them.
people that don't understand it, don't install it yourself, changes are 50/50 you'll blow it up because of it

 

I have a Darton open deck sleeved b20 block and I was going to put the Golden Eagle block guard but after reading this thread I'm kinda sceptical. I'm all confused now and stuck in the middle. Should I or should I not? I'm aiming for 650 on a b20 vtec turbo