b18b1 block
81.5mm pr4
arp rod and headstud
gsr oil and water pump
exedy clutch
fidanza 8lb fw
b16a head stock
hondata intake mg
s2 im
s2 cg
gsr tranny

i have no dyno yet. But i ran 14.3@96

 

way to give us more specifics. well done.

 

Short Air Intake with K&N filter
Stock '98 B18C (tuned by Teknotik...)

(BTW, Very happy with Nick from Teknotik, he answers and explains everything along the way!)

185HP and 135 ft/lbs


I need to do some suspension work next season but after that I'd like to do 'something' to the engine.... but
I don't know the path to take. I don't want to mess with longevity/reliability, this is my DD.
I'd have tops around 500 after I do the suspension stuff... feel free to PM me... Any links or articles on the whole
"idea" behind a "proper" upgrade path would be much appreciated...

 

I made 215 whp and 160 wtq but It isn't on this chart, It isn't the progressive chart with the first to last pull, and it is on a 93 octane street tune
Stock bottom end Jdm H22a,Evolution H2B kit, Skunk2 IM, Professional Products 68 mm tb, Skunk2 Megapower exhaust, Six Sigma stainless header, Brian Crower stage 2 camshafts, Brian Crower valvesprings and steel retainers, Walbro 255lph, Matrix SRI, Stock port head, and it smokes a little, looking to rebuild the bottom with .25mm overbore type S and go for 225 wheel.

 

85mm Benson Sleeved Block
89mm LS crank
Wiseco Pistons
Eagle Rods
ACL Bearings
B18C1 Cylinder Head ported by myself
EDELBROCK Perf. X Intake Manifold
Prof. Products 68mm Throttle Body
Skunk2 Pro2 Camshafts
Rocket Motorsports Dual Valve springs and Titanium Retainers
Supertech Flat-Faced Valves
Supertech Keepers
RAGE "Big Tube" Header
2.5" piping ---> Magnaflow Race Muffler
Hondata S200

 

WTF? why does your torque curve bounce around like that?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B16CRXT &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">WTF? why does your torque curve bounce around like that?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Probably just cause the tq graph is skewed over 50tq, where the hp is skewed over 200hp. I agree though, it does make for a graph that looks like ***.

 

I have a big dip in TQ, probably caused by the header.

Paradigm_shift is right for using his brain though, because it is scaled over 50 units, it makes it looks worse than it is.

 

179 - 139 = 40, not 50

but yes that is why it looks so bad, when you're used to looking at a dyno jet graph and the tq scale is from 0-200 or so and then you see a dynapack tq curve where the scale is only 40, you will always be like "wtf?".

Nice numbers steve

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BMo Tuning &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">179 - 139 = 40, not 50

but yes that is why it looks so bad, when you're used to looking at a dyno jet graph and the tq scale is from 0-200 or so and then you see a dynapack tq curve where the scale is only 40, you will always be like "wtf?".

Nice numbers steve </TD></TR></TABLE>

Did I say 50? lol

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by paradigm_shift &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Did I say 50? lol </TD></TR></TABLE>

both you and steve (combustion contraption) did.

lol, its ok.

 

I just copied what he said without looking at the graph. It was the concept that was important, not the numbers. Thats my story and Im sticking to it.

 

81.5mm LSV, 11.7/1 c.r., Arias/Eagles, Vibrant j-spec 4-2-1, 3" sri, Bpi stack w/aem filter, BC4's, portmatched p73 im/68mm, 2.5" metal core cat, 24" muffler, 2.5" mandrel, ported pr3 head, 205/50/15, SAE numbers on a dynojet. The attached link is bc3+, p30 im/68mm, 3" cai vs. bc4's, p73/68mm, 3" sri. no tricks, no filters pointed upward, not open header. just 100+ dyno pulls, 3 cam and im changes and sri/cai swaps.

Edit: graph posted by Mar778c


Modified by Rollo Lawson at 11:42 PM 11/1/2008


Modified by Rollo Lawson at 11:26 PM 11/5/2008

 

Wow you can really see the difference in those cams. I've seen this analytically.

Thanks for confirming.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mar778c &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


Wow you can really see the difference in those cams. I've seen this analytically.

Thanks for confirming. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Not a problem my friend. 3+'s are my favourite street/mild build cam, but the 4's are just different man. Its nothing more than a combination of a very capable tuner, experienced builder and a good amount of testing/studying on my behalf


Modified by Rollo Lawson at 9:40 PM 11/1/2008

 

also rollo's build has nothing fancy just good combination of parts. i think it has a good bit more in it. you ever think of a performerx or cutting and porting the p73.

 

I could only imagine what it would make with 12.5+:1 CR, an expensive fancy header, an extrude honed ITR intake manifold, no cat and a 3" exhaust.

But rollo doesn't roll like that, he likes to keep things simple....and quiet

This car feels awesome on the street and will make a super fun car to drive on the track.

Get some tires and enjoy that **** rollo!

 

Here is my recent dyno at Locash. 223whp and 157 ft lb



2.0 gsr
12.1 cr
skunk2 stg 2 cams
Alaniz headwork
DTR header
ITR intake mani
Neptune
Full exhuast 2.5"

Collective Racing Built.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by zman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I

Get some tires and enjoy that **** rollo!</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah, get some tires already rollo!

Great job dawg, the setup is working well. Awesome tuning job Andrew! Gord Bush performance.

BTW, I think u need some real cams like some "M zwenty twooooooz"

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Chillinit &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
BTW, I think u need some real cams like some "M zwenty twooooooz"</TD></TR></TABLE>

lol

Sick build rollo. Can't wait to get my 1.8 or 2.0 build going.


Modified by Gong Show at 10:45 AM 11/4/2008

 

is there any way to get more specific when describing your ( i mean everyone's) build?

 

Minus cracking out the micrometer and taking pictures of the internals, I don't know what more I could do to describe my build lol.'

What are you looking for??


Modified by logg_frogg at 4:25 AM 11/7/2008

 

i dont believe i posted this here but here is the dyno comparison between fully tuned Crome Pro vs Partially tuned eCtune Pro

red = eCtune



due to time constraints i had to focus only on 5400+ rpm as those are the only rpms my engine sees while at WOT. fixing the peakiness will come as i get more money to throw away on the dyno.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 98vtec &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i dont believe i posted this here but here is the dyno comparison between fully tuned Crome Pro vs Partially tuned eCtune Pro

due to time constraints i had to focus only on 5400+ rpm as those are the only rpms my engine sees while at WOT. fixing the peakiness will come as i get more money to throw away on the dyno.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I can't see the dyno here at work, but I'll bet money that the partially-tuned eCtune is kicking Crome's but. I love my eCtune.

 

how does tuning with another software produce more power? do u just go more in depth and have bigger tables to tune on?