Understeer Problems
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by solo-x »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">is Wile E. Coyote going to have a section on strut bars in his book? *hint*
nate</TD></TR></TABLE>
What are all these books you keep referring to? And where can I pick them up?
nate</TD></TR></TABLE>
What are all these books you keep referring to? And where can I pick them up?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by solo-x »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i've based my setup on conversations with daddio...</TD></TR></TABLE>
Can't argue with his results... or perhaps you can with all the rumors about him being some sort of autocross robot or alien
Sorry for the OT comment.
Can't argue with his results... or perhaps you can with all the rumors about him being some sort of autocross robot or alien
Sorry for the OT comment.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RineRacing »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Honda put one there then there should be one there). I would adjust other parts of the car to dial out understeer before removing suspension bracing.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I wasn't even considering it was the factory honda one.. i guess i might leave it on for a little while. I know how it should keep suspension geometry, but sometimes it could exxagerate poor suspension geometry by not letting it flex I would think. But all that is why i prefaced it with individual driver quirks and such.
Jon k
http://www.seat-time.com
Honda put one there then there should be one there). I would adjust other parts of the car to dial out understeer before removing suspension bracing.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I wasn't even considering it was the factory honda one.. i guess i might leave it on for a little while. I know how it should keep suspension geometry, but sometimes it could exxagerate poor suspension geometry by not letting it flex I would think. But all that is why i prefaced it with individual driver quirks and such.
Jon k
http://www.seat-time.com
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by solo-x »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">oh, i can't resist. to add some confusion to the mix....
i run stiffer front springs then rear springs.
i run a larger then stock front swaybar.
i run my front shocks at full stiff. (not only that, but i've specifically had the shocks valved as stiff as the body allows in rebound)
my car oversteers in slaloms and is loose on corner entry. it's loose mid-corner. it's neutral on corner exit. i have an open diff and i experience no problems with wheelspin. if you want a fun project, try to figure THAT out. i think i'm on the right track with a solution, but you wouldn't beleive what i think the solution is. the solution? stiffer rear springs. i might have to dial out a little more rear camber to free her up again, but i can live with that... (arguably, the problem may also be solved with stiffer front springs but that would hurt overall grip way too much)
that said, i'll quote something lee grimes said to me while we were talking about shock valving. "if you try hard enough, you can convince yourself of just about anything" (or something to that effect) i hope to get some better instrumentation into the car and a hard copy of what the maniac behind the wheel is doing. with that i may find that my assumptions and conclusions were way off base. at which point i'll be able to say to myself, "damn, you must be one hell of driver to go as fast as you do with such a horrible setup!"
frankly, it's a win - win situation!
nate</TD></TR></TABLE>
well...if the japanese can make it work..you can too
i do believe having a front biased setup is the correct setup...you get rotation (some magical way) and you don't lose turn in response...the only problem is with the "japanese" setup is to make the car rotate...that's the hard part lol and that's why i run stiffer springs in back
i run stiffer front springs then rear springs.
i run a larger then stock front swaybar.
i run my front shocks at full stiff. (not only that, but i've specifically had the shocks valved as stiff as the body allows in rebound)
my car oversteers in slaloms and is loose on corner entry. it's loose mid-corner. it's neutral on corner exit. i have an open diff and i experience no problems with wheelspin. if you want a fun project, try to figure THAT out. i think i'm on the right track with a solution, but you wouldn't beleive what i think the solution is. the solution? stiffer rear springs. i might have to dial out a little more rear camber to free her up again, but i can live with that... (arguably, the problem may also be solved with stiffer front springs but that would hurt overall grip way too much)
that said, i'll quote something lee grimes said to me while we were talking about shock valving. "if you try hard enough, you can convince yourself of just about anything" (or something to that effect) i hope to get some better instrumentation into the car and a hard copy of what the maniac behind the wheel is doing. with that i may find that my assumptions and conclusions were way off base. at which point i'll be able to say to myself, "damn, you must be one hell of driver to go as fast as you do with such a horrible setup!"
frankly, it's a win - win situation!nate</TD></TR></TABLE>
well...if the japanese can make it work..you can too
i do believe having a front biased setup is the correct setup...you get rotation (some magical way) and you don't lose turn in response...the only problem is with the "japanese" setup is to make the car rotate...that's the hard part lol and that's why i run stiffer springs in back
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IntegraBoy04 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
What are all these books you keep referring to? And where can I pick them up?</TD></TR></TABLE>
i'm going to answer this in case you were asking seriously.. it's not a real book we're talking about in the Wile E. Coyote thing.. just something RR98ITR claims to be working on, but we'll see if he ever finishes.. it presents some rather, err, contradictory information..
What are all these books you keep referring to? And where can I pick them up?</TD></TR></TABLE>
i'm going to answer this in case you were asking seriously.. it's not a real book we're talking about in the Wile E. Coyote thing.. just something RR98ITR claims to be working on, but we'll see if he ever finishes.. it presents some rather, err, contradictory information..
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mstewar »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
i'm going to answer this in case you were asking seriously.. it's not a real book we're talking about in the Wile E. Coyote thing.. just something RR98ITR claims to be working on, but we'll see if he ever finishes.. it presents some rather, err, contradictory information..
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Oh ok..
i'm going to answer this in case you were asking seriously.. it's not a real book we're talking about in the Wile E. Coyote thing.. just something RR98ITR claims to be working on, but we'll see if he ever finishes.. it presents some rather, err, contradictory information..
</TD></TR></TABLE>Oh ok..
I think I thought I knew more about suspension setup when I started reading this thread than I do after. I've always judged my tire pressure off roll-over and with that I'm running 39f/36r (usually). This is on 195-6-14 azenis with stock springs and konis. All this is probably about to change as I've got 15's now with 205-50 azenis and will be adding 450/500 GC's.
Now, to rob the thread, how bad are the GC's going to be on a 91 hatch with those rates for daily since the Eibach ERS springs are linar?
Now, to rob the thread, how bad are the GC's going to be on a 91 hatch with those rates for daily since the Eibach ERS springs are linar?
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mgast
Road Racing / Autocross & Time Attack
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May 24, 2004 07:40 AM




