Conan the Destroyer

then what about all the threads about using the Z06 ducts with the GM part numbers included?

Stinkycheezmonky

He's talking about something like what D made; some kind of plate to direct the air right at the center of the rotor. My guess is that most Honda guys are too cheap to pay for something like that (I am...).

SPiFF

Mine ..

EASTCOASTDARIDER

nice.........

Johnny Mac

Sadly, a review of the OP's past posts show that within three months of his first post in this thread he totaled his Integra at Buttonwillow after hitting a wall. After the end of 2001, he no longer posted anything on H-T. Knowing Buttonwillow as I do, it is doubtful his brakes caused this crash though.

descartesfool

Time moves on. Still no real Integra brake ducts you can buy that I know of. There was a guy who posted some nice CF ones he had made. Too bad they never materialized. They looked similar to this one for an RX-7.

Dogginator

Why would you make a part out of CF reinforced resin that could be exposed to high temperature black body radiation?

Jenkinsal2

The formula lite cars at work all have CF brake duct work and while they are open wheel cars I am sure they see higher temps. I don't think it would be a problem.

descartesfool

Here's a carbon fibre brake duct and backing plate for a BMW from TurnerMotorsports used in SCCA racing: http://www.turnermotorsport.com/html..._ID=TMSBRAKE46

Dogginator

The thermal ability depends on the resin used on the carbon fibers. Your average fabricator is not working with an autoclave and polyimide resins. If you look at the duct in the previous post, it is not directly exposed to the swept area of the rotor, which minimizes the radiant heat transfer.

Johnny Mac

If there is enough room, an insulated gold foil should be placed on the face of the duct housing that faces the rotor. In addition, a high temp resin such as a polyimide thermoset should be used, which is good for sustained temperatures of over 600 deg. F.

Dogginator

I know this. They were asking why the home-made CF cooling shield never panned out.

The bottom line is that a DIY cooling shield should be made of metal to avoid unexpected complications.

Jenkinsal2

I get it now thanks for clearing that up. I may try my hand at making a metal duct when i get some free time at work.

Andrie Hartanto

It is really hard to make a good cooling duct that goes all the way to the rotor in front wheel drives car. Packaging is a nightmare. There just not much room there. RWD cars are much easier since there are no axles.

JW racing

Something like this that mounts to the caliper bracket bolts or dust shield locations is easy to fab up - http://www.agentfortyseven.com/racin...kecooling.html

However as Andrie says,the axle as well as small wheel wells make packaging tough.So many times a hose gets wrapped around an axle or ripped of by the tire.

I have my hoses mounted on the splitter blade under the frame rail roughly,blowing on the caliper,rotor,and inside bead;Untill I can figure out a mounting package for the center of the rotor.I have heard though from several brake techs,that cooling the caliper is just as important as the rotor,so I tried it how I have it currently and have no fade but still eventually heat crack these cheap rotors.

Chillinit

Hey guys,

Is this an option?

https://honda-tech.com/forums/showth...light=2.5+INCH

xep

I dunno man. I have a pretty built up DA9 for track and Corner 11 takes a lot of breaking even for high-end cars. I've found I have to slow down enough that it makes sense to grab 2nd gear real quick to get through corners 12 and 13.

Also corner 1 requires a lot of braking since a reasonable car is going to reach 120mph+ before the braking point. And you gotta drop a fair amount of speed to enter and maintain corner 1 safely, at least at my intermediate level. Going in too hot for corner 11 is a guaranteed bad time. Corner 10 as well. It requires a fair bit of braking since you're coming into it from a long downhill stretch on which it's easy to gain a ton of speed.

I think of all the corners that gave me issues with warped rotors once were mostly corner 1 and 10 as the brakes would get hot after a few laps and the massive pulsation would cause the suspension to get unsettled. I pretty much had to double my braking distance to take those corners safely =\

I run Hawk HP+ on the track car with Brembo OE replacements and have never had fade issue provided I use Motul RBF660 brake fluid. The only time I ever had serious heat problems was with brake fluid boilover. The cheap Prestone stuff at AutoZone won't do Also those rotors I somehow "warped" didn't help at all.

Last track day, I went to Sonoma Raceway / Sears Point and had zero issue with brake fade / boilover / pulsation.

Since I street mine to the track, I'm not hardcore enough to run the blue pads. Actually I'm going to take the track car to work tomorrow for kicks. It really doesn't like public roads but even with the mild build I've got, the car is responsive and very light (stripped down), can be fun. I keep it legal on the street but it's nice to be able to have quicker response time on the road. Plus I like to throw it in lower gear / mash the throttle once in a while to hear the beautiful sound I managed to make the whole car make. I mean, why not? It's a car built for fun and enjoyment

I'm looking to make or buy some brake ducts for it as well just to mitigate the chance of any overheat / fade on the brakes. I'm in the process of downgrading my 92 Integra to use a 90-91 bumper so that I can use the little vents on the bottom to feed into the ducts.

One snag will be that I still have my windshield washer unit and don't want to remove it since I have to street it to the track. One brake duct will have to be "creative" as it will have to snake around. I fear it may not be as good in that case.

I'd love some sort of off-the-shelf parts but have a feeling I'll be learning to craft fiberglass or carbon fiber very soon, at least if I want to keep the windshield washer box.

johnjw

This thread won't die!!! 12yrs old!!

But yeah its tough to package in fwd. We have deflectors built on to the lower fork bolt that a duct/hose is zip tied to.

Smitdog

Working great on my DC2R.

3" inlet, directs air into rotor/hub. Better results with this design then the duct just pointed at the rotor in one spot.

Attaches to stock threaded holes for OE dust sheild.

descartesfool

Looks good. How do the ducts connect to it and where did you attach them?. Got pics?