I couldn't pass up a deal i got on them a few months back. I was talking to the guy of where i ordered them from and he was asking me how i liked them and i said they were wonderful and what not. The conversation kept going and we were talking about hubcentric rings and i mentioned i didn't use them on my ITR the day of the event. I was worried about them melting because of extreme heat caused by the brakes (the rings i got are black plastic pieces).

I actually still have these rings. I thought about using them for the next HPDE but am weary because i dont wanna melt them as i hear some people do. I wanna just confirm that people have melted these rings (the plastic version) so that i make myself do the right thing and go buy some metal ones. Where can i get them at? thanks in advance

mike

 

I have the plastic rings on my subzeros, and I didnt melt them on a 110 degree day at CMP (hard on brakes if you didnt know) in my 3000lb+ car plus 200lb me plus 300 lb instructor. With track pads and grippy tires. I gaurantee that is a whole hell of a lot more heat than you will ever see on your wheels, and mine didnt melt, deform, stick or anything.

 

Good info! Keep it coming

 

Friend melted a generic set of blue ones at one of the autox's this year. The day was about 80 - 90 degree ish'. He has an MR2.

 

...newly acquired slipstreams at the last 4 track events i've attended, two of which were in 106+ ambient temps, and had not melting, deforming, or general crapping out of the rings; id be more worried about running the wheels w/ out the rings, and breaking a stud, than deforming a plastic ring; use them, they wont melt; may become brittle, but anything heated and cooled in such a way will, plastic or metal.

 

as much as those name-brand ****** don't want to admit...rota does make good wheel and cheap.

a lot of budget racers in asia (that are not backed up by big companies) all use rota

Jeff-

 

there is a very thorough article in the Tirerack column specifically on this topic in GRM. i believe the conclusion was the plastic ones can carry the load, but for high temp applications (on track), you would be better getting aluminum ones. but if ppl are going to vouch for the plastic ones, go for it.

 

I have been using the Circuit 8's for the last two years. No hubcentric rings. No lug breakage. No problems.

 

i am using the 15" x 6.5" Rota Attack on V700 Victoracers with no rings. no problems at all. just tighten the wheels in sequence and gradually to center them and use good quality lug nuts (i use the gorrilla spline drive).

 

I spoke to the guys where I buy my tires. I value their knowledge and judgement more than anyone else in the wheel/tire industry and so does the majority of the DC Region. What they told me about the rings is that they ultimately prevent some wobble/vibration at highway speeds but they are in NO WAY necessary or required. As Todd said, just tighten in sequence to get them centered. Tapered lugs are great like that.


Drew - Who runs Rota Subzeros and does not even own any hubcentric rings

 

rota attacks for me... no rings, and those funny looking lightweight lugs (kyokugen?). They have seemed to work great so far, although i about slapped my dad when he went to put them on with an impact...

RJ

 

me too!

 

Newest Rota knockoff here! RNR's anyone?
http://www.groupbuycenter.com/buy.asp?row_id=7118

*edit: Sorry, off topic I know, just wanted to share for those that didn't see 'em yet.


[Modified by 91SiKen, 5:40 PM 10/18/2002]

 

Thanks for the info gentleman. I will just keep using the wheels and not use the rings. I didn' have any problems on the last 2 day HPDE event. I always torque the wheels after each session so they are centered and what not.

 

you DONT wanna use an impact on those lugs.
they are VERY soft.

 

I use 15x6.5 Slipstreams with Victoracers. Kyokugen lugs. I have black plastic rings as well. I am very hard on the brakes. The only problem I had with this setup was the first time I used this setup on the track. Nearly every lug was loose to the point where when I went to the pits I could feel it. I believe this was due to the seating of the lugs for the very first time, when the wheel paint at the seating surface was under high stress and came off/burned/etc. I had anti-sieze on the studs. Only happened this one time. Lugs always torqued to 82 lbs.

 

I had the same problem. All the lugs were looser than what they should have been. I am yet to antiseize my lugs but i am going to be doing that the next rotation i do of my tires. Anyone know exactly why the lugs came loose on our wheels? I understand with hard driving that they are bound to come loose(r).

mike

 

Rota Subzero's with Toyo T1-S here. Using McGard Spline lugs, no rings. Have always taken great care when mounting, using proper tightening sequence and torque settings. Have seen 125 with no detectable vibration.

 

Lug nuts should be checked after every session. The different materials (wheels = al & hubs/studs = steel) expand & contract @ different rates. I know that the manual specs the torque @ 82 ft./lbs but I torque them to 88. I re-torque after the first session. Even though I check before each session, I usually don't get anymore movement after that.

 

Yeah, a friend of ours run a pretty big prep shop, and they do track-side service for several cars. All lugs are torqued before every session--period. If they're doing six or seven cars a weekend, that's a lot of torque wrench action.