Things that dont work thread
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by krshultz »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Harbor Freight actually makes a pretty good torque wrench for like $20. It appears to be all metal, and when I've checked against costlier ones, it's accurate. One of the few HF things I've been quite pleased with.
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I agree, I have bought two of these HF torque wrenches(to keep in various locales since they're so cheap), and as long as you take care of it(no dropping, always leaving it set on 10 ft-lbs in storage etc.) it seems to stay pretty accurate. At least good enough for the crap I use it for.
I have had pretty good luck with most HF tools I've purchased. Every once in a while I'll destroy a socket or kill a cheap 1/4" rachet, but I like to think it's because I'm so beast and can rip steel tools apart with my bare hands, not that the starving Chinese kid that was supposed to be the Quality Control checker for the wrenches that day keeled over right as he got to my wrench.
I know that I simply couldn't afford to have even half the amount of tools I've got if it wasn't for HF, so since it allows me to get the job done(99.9% of the time) for a small fraction of the cost of even Craftsman stuff - I'll probably keep buying the cheap Chinese crap from HF.
Harbor Freight actually makes a pretty good torque wrench for like $20. It appears to be all metal, and when I've checked against costlier ones, it's accurate. One of the few HF things I've been quite pleased with.
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I agree, I have bought two of these HF torque wrenches(to keep in various locales since they're so cheap), and as long as you take care of it(no dropping, always leaving it set on 10 ft-lbs in storage etc.) it seems to stay pretty accurate. At least good enough for the crap I use it for.
I have had pretty good luck with most HF tools I've purchased. Every once in a while I'll destroy a socket or kill a cheap 1/4" rachet, but I like to think it's because I'm so beast and can rip steel tools apart with my bare hands, not that the starving Chinese kid that was supposed to be the Quality Control checker for the wrenches that day keeled over right as he got to my wrench.
I know that I simply couldn't afford to have even half the amount of tools I've got if it wasn't for HF, so since it allows me to get the job done(99.9% of the time) for a small fraction of the cost of even Craftsman stuff - I'll probably keep buying the cheap Chinese crap from HF.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Catch 22 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Otherwise... Craftsman. Nothing but Craftsman.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Absolutely. I have never had one problem so far for the past 6 years with any Craftsmen product I've bought. From basic hand tools, to air compressor. Although when I do upgrade I will probably get an Ingersoll-Rand 2-stage because the it's cheaper then the craftsmen model and has quite a track record.
The only things I seem to buy from HF are things I can't get from Craftsmen (or atleast locally because I'd rather have the local store carry it and be able to swap it then mail a special order item out etc...) or cheap spare items to keep in vehicles or around the house that I'm not really worried about.
Absolutely. I have never had one problem so far for the past 6 years with any Craftsmen product I've bought. From basic hand tools, to air compressor. Although when I do upgrade I will probably get an Ingersoll-Rand 2-stage because the it's cheaper then the craftsmen model and has quite a track record.
The only things I seem to buy from HF are things I can't get from Craftsmen (or atleast locally because I'd rather have the local store carry it and be able to swap it then mail a special order item out etc...) or cheap spare items to keep in vehicles or around the house that I'm not really worried about.
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Dec 2000
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From: boldly scornful of higher mental function, US
Everything Craftsman that I have purchased is either broken, dying, or tries to hurt me when I use it.
Toolbox? Broken. Cracked the latch and you can't pick it up anymore. Their return policy won't cover it.
Floor jack? Broken. Does't lift. Leaks oil. Seals are gone. Return policy won't replace it.
3/8th ratchet? Broken. That one they returned. I don't use it to do anything on the car anymore unless I can't find my 1/2 drive socket to fit whatever bolt I'm trying to loosen. All the Shitty Craftsman sockets I have are 12 point and round off anything they touch anyway.
Cordless drill? Broken. no returns.
Shop vac? Everytime it is used, it attempts to neuter the individual using it. I've come to call it the nut-buster.
I've got various other Craftsman products that are sub-par in quality as well, but this list is the highlights.
Toolbox? Broken. Cracked the latch and you can't pick it up anymore. Their return policy won't cover it.
Floor jack? Broken. Does't lift. Leaks oil. Seals are gone. Return policy won't replace it.
3/8th ratchet? Broken. That one they returned. I don't use it to do anything on the car anymore unless I can't find my 1/2 drive socket to fit whatever bolt I'm trying to loosen. All the Shitty Craftsman sockets I have are 12 point and round off anything they touch anyway.
Cordless drill? Broken. no returns.
Shop vac? Everytime it is used, it attempts to neuter the individual using it. I've come to call it the nut-buster.
I've got various other Craftsman products that are sub-par in quality as well, but this list is the highlights.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by madhatter »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Everything Craftsman that I have purchased is either broken, dying, or tries to hurt me when I use it.
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Hmm, the tools you are buying must be part of the A.J. Foyt Signature Series.
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Hmm, the tools you are buying must be part of the A.J. Foyt Signature Series.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Sean O’Gorman »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hmm, the tools you are buying must be part of the A.J. Foyt Signature Series.
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But, but ya know where to take em cause ya know where they come from.
</TD></TR></TABLE>But, but ya know where to take em cause ya know where they come from.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Def »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have had pretty good luck with most HF tools I've purchased.</TD></TR></TABLE>
To me its been a bit of a crapshoot. There's certain things, like the long trigger-pull grabby thing for picking up stuff in tight places, that I couldn't do without. And something like a pickle fork is awful hard to screw up. Then there's other stuff, like two 14mm wrenches being different from each other, that's just horribly bad.
Also not recommended:
- Harbor Freight prybars. I shattered the handle without really doing much of anything with it.
- I'm beginning to think maybe urethane bushings aren't so good
- I'm also beginning to think owning one's own race car...also not so good.
To me its been a bit of a crapshoot. There's certain things, like the long trigger-pull grabby thing for picking up stuff in tight places, that I couldn't do without. And something like a pickle fork is awful hard to screw up. Then there's other stuff, like two 14mm wrenches being different from each other, that's just horribly bad.
Also not recommended:
- Harbor Freight prybars. I shattered the handle without really doing much of anything with it.
- I'm beginning to think maybe urethane bushings aren't so good
- I'm also beginning to think owning one's own race car...also not so good.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by krshultz »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
- I'm beginning to think maybe urethane bushings aren't so good
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After two years of daily driving with various urethane bushings installed, i'm beginning to think the same thing. Something just doesn't feel right with these bushings installed (can't really put my finger on it).
-Using a coat hanger to break into your integra doesn't work so well.
-Khumo Ecsta Supra 712s don't work so well after 2000 miles or so. they decide to get very slippery and complain about everything (more than one would expect from any grippy street tire)
-trying to adjust the preload/ride height on ground controls (with 8 in front springs) with your aftermarket swaybar endlinks still connected.
- I'm beginning to think maybe urethane bushings aren't so good
</TD></TR></TABLE>
After two years of daily driving with various urethane bushings installed, i'm beginning to think the same thing. Something just doesn't feel right with these bushings installed (can't really put my finger on it).
-Using a coat hanger to break into your integra doesn't work so well.
-Khumo Ecsta Supra 712s don't work so well after 2000 miles or so. they decide to get very slippery and complain about everything (more than one would expect from any grippy street tire)
-trying to adjust the preload/ride height on ground controls (with 8 in front springs) with your aftermarket swaybar endlinks still connected.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bb6h22a »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Griot's Garage Vaccum Brake Bleeder contraption that I got for christmas - try bleeding the rear brake line, just try. One beer, two beers, six beers ... what am I doing again? It's real good for sucking out the old fluid out of the reservoir. Oh and that dumb red tip they put on the end of the hose doesn't fit any bleeder nipple I've come accross.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Maybe the beer was the problem.
I have the Griots Vaccum Bleeder and I think it's one of the best tools I've EVER owned! Just like any other vaccum unit, you have put a bit of grease around the nipple before you put the red end on to keep it from sucking outside air.
I have bled the brakes on my street car, my race car, my roommate's car, and a hydraulic clutch system and it has worked flawlessly on every one.
Maybe the beer was the problem.
I have the Griots Vaccum Bleeder and I think it's one of the best tools I've EVER owned! Just like any other vaccum unit, you have put a bit of grease around the nipple before you put the red end on to keep it from sucking outside air.
I have bled the brakes on my street car, my race car, my roommate's car, and a hydraulic clutch system and it has worked flawlessly on every one.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rice_classic »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Maybe the beer was the problem.
I have the Griots Vaccum Bleeder and I think it's one of the best tools I've EVER owned! Just like any other vaccum unit, you have put a bit of grease around the nipple before you put the red end on to keep it from sucking outside air.
I have bled the brakes on my street car, my race car, my roommate's car, and a hydraulic clutch system and it has worked flawlessly on every one. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Nah. Beer wasn't the problem. The problem was, a punky vaccum.
I started with the RR brake line and it pulled, maybe, 10ml out of the caliper.
The thing just sucks at sucking.
I've used the Motiv power bleeder in the past, and once you got the m/c seal on right, and got the brake fluid to stop pissing all over the engine bay, it made for a real quick bleed - the Griot's piece is the absoloute antithesis of what I expected.
I even, in a mediocrum of sobriety, tried the Griot's bleeder on my motorcycle and even there it didn't perform well - it (the Griot's bleeder) is good for asspirating the old fluid out of the reservoirs but past that, it doesn't do much good, IMO.
I'll sell you mine, if you want an extra one.
Maybe the beer was the problem.
I have the Griots Vaccum Bleeder and I think it's one of the best tools I've EVER owned! Just like any other vaccum unit, you have put a bit of grease around the nipple before you put the red end on to keep it from sucking outside air.
I have bled the brakes on my street car, my race car, my roommate's car, and a hydraulic clutch system and it has worked flawlessly on every one. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Nah. Beer wasn't the problem. The problem was, a punky vaccum.
I started with the RR brake line and it pulled, maybe, 10ml out of the caliper.
The thing just sucks at sucking.
I've used the Motiv power bleeder in the past, and once you got the m/c seal on right, and got the brake fluid to stop pissing all over the engine bay, it made for a real quick bleed - the Griot's piece is the absoloute antithesis of what I expected.
I even, in a mediocrum of sobriety, tried the Griot's bleeder on my motorcycle and even there it didn't perform well - it (the Griot's bleeder) is good for asspirating the old fluid out of the reservoirs but past that, it doesn't do much good, IMO.
I'll sell you mine, if you want an extra one.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by krshultz »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Other things that don't work...
And I guess I'm picking on Sears...
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr...21000
7" orbital buffer. Raging, hulking pile of crap. The flimsy little pads go on with elastic and as you buff the car, they move around on the pad. Once they've done that they're off center, and the orbital action sends the pad flinging across the street. Which since it now has a bunch of crap on it, you now have to wash. Again.
I hate it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
You know, I bought the same on and I'm pleased as hell with it! That is, after some modifications... First off, I tore the cheap foam pad off and put some hook side velcor over the disc. Now, I just slap on a Maguiar's cutting pad. When I'm finished polishing, I slip a bonnet over that (fits very tight, doesn't move around) and buff away. The center nut came loose a few times. Nothing that some thread locker won't fix.
On the same note of Craftsman toos:
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr...CRAFT
I'm on my third one of those. The first two failed and wouldn't lift. The third one works like a charm.
Other things that suck...
>People trying to break a balljoint free without using the wrench and kick down trick.
>rebates for ANYTHING.
>Having no garage to work on your car.
Some things that don't suck...
>HF/Chigaco Electric 1/2" impact wrench. Best $60 I've ever spent.
>Fluke and Dewalt products
>Gear Wrench ratcheting wrenches.
>The "Tire Tote" tire carrier
And I guess I'm picking on Sears...
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr...21000
7" orbital buffer. Raging, hulking pile of crap. The flimsy little pads go on with elastic and as you buff the car, they move around on the pad. Once they've done that they're off center, and the orbital action sends the pad flinging across the street. Which since it now has a bunch of crap on it, you now have to wash. Again.
I hate it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
You know, I bought the same on and I'm pleased as hell with it! That is, after some modifications... First off, I tore the cheap foam pad off and put some hook side velcor over the disc. Now, I just slap on a Maguiar's cutting pad. When I'm finished polishing, I slip a bonnet over that (fits very tight, doesn't move around) and buff away. The center nut came loose a few times. Nothing that some thread locker won't fix.
On the same note of Craftsman toos:
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr...CRAFT
I'm on my third one of those. The first two failed and wouldn't lift. The third one works like a charm.
Other things that suck...
>People trying to break a balljoint free without using the wrench and kick down trick.
>rebates for ANYTHING.
>Having no garage to work on your car.
Some things that don't suck...
>HF/Chigaco Electric 1/2" impact wrench. Best $60 I've ever spent.
>Fluke and Dewalt products
>Gear Wrench ratcheting wrenches.
>The "Tire Tote" tire carrier
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bb6h22a »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I even, in a mediocrum of sobriety, tried the Griot's bleeder on my motorcycle and even there it didn't perform well - it (the Griot's bleeder) is good for asspirating the old fluid out of the reservoirs but past that, it doesn't do much good, IMO.
I'll sell you mine, if you want an extra one.</TD></TR></TABLE>
How about you just send it to me!
I'll even pay for shipping!
I even, in a mediocrum of sobriety, tried the Griot's bleeder on my motorcycle and even there it didn't perform well - it (the Griot's bleeder) is good for asspirating the old fluid out of the reservoirs but past that, it doesn't do much good, IMO.
I'll sell you mine, if you want an extra one.</TD></TR></TABLE>
How about you just send it to me!
I'll even pay for shipping!
I should add. 200amp stick welder.. It cant be used on cars no matter how low the amerage is set (aka 30)... Nothing welds sheetmetal like MIG/tig
Not really the tools fault.. just the tool using it...
Not really the tools fault.. just the tool using it...
Ack, kill me now if I ever have to use a stick welder again in the future. I don't want to practice, I don't want to be good at it, if I have to go through that again I just want to die now and save the embarassment.
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