Surface rust removal tactics?
On a recently aquired car, (I'm currently working on) there are a few areas where some surface rust needs to be removed and repainted over.
What are the best procedures some of you have used to remove the rust? I know there are a few of you with EF's or similar vehicles that have probably had to do the rear tire well, rear quarters, and rad support areas.
Does a hard grit sandpaper and chemical element make this easy? Are there other tactics? This car will take a while to complete as it is my first attempt at the specific car. I will post up pics once it arrives (in shipment).
I ask in this forum because its the most informative and serious forum. Its also a follow up to my "sourcing a datsun" post.
TIA
-cal
What are the best procedures some of you have used to remove the rust? I know there are a few of you with EF's or similar vehicles that have probably had to do the rear tire well, rear quarters, and rad support areas.
Does a hard grit sandpaper and chemical element make this easy? Are there other tactics? This car will take a while to complete as it is my first attempt at the specific car. I will post up pics once it arrives (in shipment).
I ask in this forum because its the most informative and serious forum. Its also a follow up to my "sourcing a datsun" post.
TIA
-cal
go to walmart, in the automotive section they have a chemical that eats rust. WORKS SOOO DAMN WELL! Just paint it on and let it sit. Then use water and it should eat it up..
WOrked on my rusted as hell lawn mower
WOrked on my rusted as hell lawn mower
"Naval Jelly" is the good stuf. It's pink and gooey and you can get it at any auto-parts store.
It requires a wire brush and paint brush depending on the surface you are working on.
It requires a wire brush and paint brush depending on the surface you are working on.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Fuuma0083 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I remember going to a autozone and seeing a spray that turns rust into black primer.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Probably fine for lawn furniture, but I would like to use something better to primer my car.
Probably fine for lawn furniture, but I would like to use something better to primer my car.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by spun Vtec »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">they also sell naval jelly at lowes (i know because i work there)</TD></TR></TABLE>
Naval jelly is likely sold at every good hardware store. Stuff has been around for at least 50 years.
Naval jelly is likely sold at every good hardware store. Stuff has been around for at least 50 years.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Cal »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Keep the suggestions coming</TD></TR></TABLE>
Ther are no other suggestions. I have had to remove rust from the front jack-point of my car (from a road scrape). Naval Jelly IS the product to use, it is designed to chemicaly react with the rust and eliminate it.
Go buy some and follow the directions. Problem solved.
Gloves and goggles are recommended.
Ther are no other suggestions. I have had to remove rust from the front jack-point of my car (from a road scrape). Naval Jelly IS the product to use, it is designed to chemicaly react with the rust and eliminate it.
Go buy some and follow the directions. Problem solved.
Gloves and goggles are recommended.
I've used a number of rust removing or neurtralizing products over the years but not naval jelly. I typically use Extend (available everywhere) which is a brush or spray on liquid that turns black when chemically neutralizing plus puts a thin latex coat on the metal as primer. This usually is one of the better readily available ones. It is not a permanent fix (I haven't found one yet although I am looking) but it will buy you a pretty good amount of time depending on how thorough you are with your prep work.
I have used probbaly a dozen or so kinds over the last 20 years and Extend is the most reliable and easy to use. Remember that Extend is a primer/rust treatment and not a top coat so if left alone with no hard paint on it then rust can return through the top. I tend to use grinders or sanding disks to cut back most of the corrosion but the Extend won't work on clean metal so it needs some oxidation remaining to chemically react with.
I have heard references of some good professional primers and rust killer and some European stuff but haven't gotten any yet. Short of cutting way back to known clean metal, welding in new metal and properly prepping any exposed metal, there is no good way to permanently eliminate rust. It is like cancer, no cure yet but hopefully you can get into long term remission.
I have used probbaly a dozen or so kinds over the last 20 years and Extend is the most reliable and easy to use. Remember that Extend is a primer/rust treatment and not a top coat so if left alone with no hard paint on it then rust can return through the top. I tend to use grinders or sanding disks to cut back most of the corrosion but the Extend won't work on clean metal so it needs some oxidation remaining to chemically react with.
I have heard references of some good professional primers and rust killer and some European stuff but haven't gotten any yet. Short of cutting way back to known clean metal, welding in new metal and properly prepping any exposed metal, there is no good way to permanently eliminate rust. It is like cancer, no cure yet but hopefully you can get into long term remission.
Anyone use POR-15? Been thinking about using it on the Scout.
<shameless begging> If anyone wants to try their hand at cutting/welding, I'll let you practice on my Scout
</shameless begging>
<shameless begging> If anyone wants to try their hand at cutting/welding, I'll let you practice on my Scout
</shameless begging>
I have used POR-15 with great success to restore an old 1970 Porsche 911. Not used where there is outer body paint, but everywhere else: floor, under carriage, fender wells, engine compartment,etc. We used wire brushes to get rust and undercoating off, as well as grinders. No miracle chemicals to remove rust, unless it is very thin. The POR-15 binds with the rust and forms a terrific tough coat. Must be painted over very soon or paint will not adhere. It is pretty special stuff, and paint must be fresh and kept from moisture. Trust me and buy their solvent for cleaning!! talk to the rep if you buy it to get all the ins and outs. Also their Marine Clean cleaning liquid is excellent for cleaning all kinds of parts. I use it every week.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MightyMouseTech »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Nothing beats a good sandblaster...period.</TD></TR></TABLE>
For just surface rush a DA will do the job just as good...
For just surface rush a DA will do the job just as good...
And the real way to fix rust is...
Take it down to bare metal and fix it with some filler (there should be a small dent from sanding to bare metal) then apply a 2 stage primer (Dupont: Vari and Uro Prime) and then finish it off with a good BC/CC system.
Hopefully this gives you alittle help
Take it down to bare metal and fix it with some filler (there should be a small dent from sanding to bare metal) then apply a 2 stage primer (Dupont: Vari and Uro Prime) and then finish it off with a good BC/CC system.
Hopefully this gives you alittle help
Thanks for the help guys.
FYI - I wasn't looking for any "magic voodoo solvent" just some pointers as to how to remove it. I like the last idea. This car is going to take a while, and hopefully by the spring it will be ready for paint. So long as the engine holds on for 40 miles a day, the body may even be finished quicker. I think I found one of the cleaner cars avaliable. Thank god I waited months, and didn't jump on the last one. Patience is a virtue.
FYI - I wasn't looking for any "magic voodoo solvent" just some pointers as to how to remove it. I like the last idea. This car is going to take a while, and hopefully by the spring it will be ready for paint. So long as the engine holds on for 40 miles a day, the body may even be finished quicker. I think I found one of the cleaner cars avaliable. Thank god I waited months, and didn't jump on the last one. Patience is a virtue.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by spun Vtec »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">they also sell naval jelly at lowes (i know because i work there)</TD></TR></TABLE>
i just went to lowes, and I couldnt find it. the customer service said they dont have it. what aisle is it in? my manifold is getting really a light coat of rust
i just went to lowes, and I couldnt find it. the customer service said they dont have it. what aisle is it in? my manifold is getting really a light coat of rust
Lowes sells house parts, not car parts - this is an opportunity to support your local family-owned hardware store.
Naval Jelly and other products put an oxide coating on the bare metal and do work but the point about putting real paint on there is a good one. Primer does NOT protect steel from water so it starts to rust - literally - the second the paint dries.
K
Naval Jelly and other products put an oxide coating on the bare metal and do work but the point about putting real paint on there is a good one. Primer does NOT protect steel from water so it starts to rust - literally - the second the paint dries.
K
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